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    Eunice arrives

    Eagerly anticipated Creole restaurant spices up Greenway Plaza with New Orleans flair

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 28, 2018 | 4:56 pm

    One of this fall's most eagerly anticipated restaurants will officially open its doors on October 1.

    Eunice, the first Houston project from New Orleans-based restaurant group BRG Hospitality, has been in development for over two years. The restaurant takes its inspiration from the hometown of chef-partner Drake Leonards, who comes to Houston after serving as the executive chef of BRG's oyster-fueled brasserie Luke. As Leonards stated on a recent episode of CultureMap's "What's Eric Eating" podcast, the town's influence extends to more than just a style of cuisine.

    "For me, it's not just about the food we grew up with, it's about the way we grew up," Leonards shared on the podcast. "People were always generous, no matter if you have a lot or not, people were always generous with their time, their food, and always wanted to cook for you, to feed you. That's the way I grew up. It's what I hope this restaurant means to people. We can go there and get a really nice meal, the food is really fresh, prepared really well, and also that the hospitality is just welcoming and people feel it is an extension of our home."

    That food starts with a raw bar that turns out a selection of Gulf oysters, as well as composed crudos, tartares, and ceviches. Starters include crispy quail, chicken liver mousse, and fried oysters topped with caviar. The entree selections include a ribeye steak, shrimp etouffee, and "duck duck rice," which delivers a sweet and savory punch courtesy of its crispy fried rice and sweet potato glaze.

    Set next to a grove of oak trees in a office building at the corner of Buffalo Speedway and Richmond Avenue, Eunice offers a picturesque setting to feast on Leonards' Cajun and Creole-inspired cuisine. Just like the food, the interior by local design firm Gin Designs Group recalls a home in Louisiana, with wooden floors, dark wood beams, and antique touches from Leonards' and general manager Luke Smith's families. Initially seen as a white tablecloth restaurant, the design evolved in a more casual direction to reflect the food's humble origins.

    When they walk through the doors, diners will find a U-shaped, quartz-topped bar that's fully stocked with an extensive selection of bourbon and other spirits. In the dining room, linen lanterns hang over tables and spacious, movable banquets. Once the weather cools off, expect the 40-seat patio, which is covered by massive oak trees, to be particularly popular.

    Known for restaurants such as August and Shaya, BRG is formerly known as Besh Restaurant Group; BRG founder John Besh resigned from the company after being accused of sexual harassment, but he retains his ownership stake. Safe to say the hype surrounding the opening would be greater if Besh remained directly involved with his reputation intact, but Leonards, Smith, and their teams don't need a celebrity to draw a crowd. The food and setting will speak for themselves.

    ---

    Eunice; 3737 Buffalo Spdwy.; Monday through Friday 11 am to 10 pm, Saturday 3 pm to 10 pm; Sunday 10 am to 9 pm

    Seafood gumbo

    Eunice seafood gumbo
    Photo by Randy Schmidt
    Seafood gumbo
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    service switcheroo

    Street food-inspired Houston restaurant swaps counter service for servers

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 14, 2025 | 10:14 am
    Traveler's Cart food spread
    Photo by Andrew Hemingway
    Traveler's Cart is add new dishes to its menu, including steak frites and chicken parm.

    A globally-inspired Houston restaurant is making a big change to its service model. Traveler’s Cart will switch from counter service to full service beginning this Monday, November 17.

    When owners Thy and Matthew Mitchell opened Traveler’s Cart last year as a more casual sister concept to Traveler’s Table, their globally-inspired Montrose restaurant, they decided counter service would match the restaurant’s street food-inspired menu and lower price point. With a year of experience, they’ve decided full service — where diners sit down and order from a server — will improve the customer experience in a number of ways.

    First, they noticed that some of their online reviews go to great lengths to explain the ordering process. Moving to traditional table service will elimination that confusion.

    “We want to be like a great brasserie or izakaya where people come and enjoy food and drinks at a reasonable price,” Matthew Mitchell tells CultureMap. “There’s a lack of intuitiveness about the process right now. Almost a year in, we’re still having to explain where you go and how you order. That tells you we probably missed the mark.”

    He also recognizes that the inherent uncertainty of counter service — people are concerned about how long they’ll have to wait to order and whether a table will be available once they do — limits the restaurant’s appeal as a date night option or for larger groups who want the certainty of having a place to sit.

    Even though the restaurant has been a financial success, according to Mitchell, he thinks Traveler’s Cart is missing out on revenue with its counter service model. “I think people order less at the counter. You may not order a cocktail, and you certainly won’t get back up and order more drinks,” he says.

    Switching to full service will also help the restaurant’s perceived value. With entrees mostly priced between $15 and $25, the restaurant may feel expensive relative to other fast casual restaurants. Once servers are added, Mitchell thinks diners will appreciate the value, particularly since its prices are about half of sister concept Traveler’s Table.

    “I feel like the food quality is outstanding for the price, but when it crosses that $20 or $30 threshold, people perceive it as pricey,” he says.

    Traveler’s Cart has other ways to enhance the value of its offering, such as its $18, three-course lunch that includes iced tea or a fountain drink. Happy hour, available Monday through Friday from 3-6 pm, includes $8 cocktails, $3 drafts, $8 small plates, and more.

    Along with the new service model, Travelers Cart is updating its menu with a number of new dishes. They include Thai chili queso, Baja shrimp tacos, salmon donburi bowl, chicken parmesan, and steak frites. The cocktail menu has also been refreshed with a Mexican espresso martini and a Tuk Tuk Old Fashioned, named for the vehicle that now sits in front of the restaurant’s entrance.

    Recently recognized by the Texas Restaurant Association as Restaurateurs of the Year for the Houston region, the Mitchells hope that these changes will lead to even more success. With the service style refined and the menu dialed in, they’re already looking for another location.





    Traveler's Cart food spread

    Photo by Andrew Hemingway

    Traveler's Cart is add new dishes to its menu, including steak frites and chicken parm.

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