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    Food for Thought

    An emergency risotto intervention: This Mockingbird knows creamy rice

    Marene Gustin
    Sep 28, 2010 | 11:26 am
    • Ah, risotto
    • At last year's Risotto Festival, chef Giancarlo Ferrara of Arcodoro shares hiscreation.
    • Chef John Sheeley of Mockingbird Bistro perfects his risotto.
      Photo by Marene Gustin

    Pasta I can do.

    I grew up with pasta. Well OK, I grew up eating mom’s tuna-noodle casserole with canned tuna and Campbell’s mushroom soup. But since I started cooking and writing about food I find pasta a perfect go-to dish. There’s always some whole-wheat penne or angel hair in the pantry, as well as extra virgin olive oil (garlic, butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Now that’s a comfort meal. And if you’ve got grilled salmon or chicken to throw on it, great. Bring it on.

    But Italians don’t live on pasta alone. They also eat a lot of rice. Rice I can do. Really, I can. But that creamy goodness known as risotto, well, notto.

    I’ve only tried it twice, once after a fabulous meal at the old Tony’s during Alba truffle season.

    I freely admit my drippy, crunchy risotto (with cheap black truffle) tasted nothing like Mr. Vallone’s. I apologize for even trying.

    The second time, well, never mind. You get the idea.

    So, when I saw the press release for the 8th annual International Risotto Festival at The Houston Design Center on Oct. 17, benefiting the University of Houston’s Conrad N. Hilton College of Hotel & Restaurant Management, I started to drool. Just a little.

    I’m not psychotic. I have no demented dreams of competing with the 19 top local chefs in this competition. But, I thought, maybe, just maaaybeee, I could learn a thing or two about making some decent (read edible) risotto.

    So I flew over to Mockingbird Bistro to get a class in risotto 101 from last year’s winning chef John Sheely, who will be defending his title this year.

    I knew from past experience in commercial kitchens, not to wear high heels. Every restaurant kitchen I’ve been in (and that’s a lot) has those rubber mats with holes in them. So, flat rubber shoes. Check. Jeans and white tunic. Check, check. Reporter's notepad, pens and iPhone for taking pictures. Check.

    A portable fan would have been nice since it was about 1,000 degrees in the Mockingbird kitchen when I got there about an hour prior to the lunch rush.

    Sheely, in crisp chef whites, didn’t appear to feel the heat. I could feel the heat from the gas burners from three feet away, but he just leaned over and tossed a handful of shallots in the hot pan.

    “Don’t brown them,” he instructed. “You just sweat them.”

    Yes, I was already sweating.

    Next came two pinches of chopped bay leaves from the perfectly prepped bowls of ingredients. Note to self: My homemade risotto would be a lot better if I had a prep cook.

    Next, Sheely dumped the mixture into a bowl and tossed the rice into the pan. He uses Arborio, a short-grain variety. Vialone Nano is another possibility, but Uncle Ben’s is not a substitute.

    “You have to toast it,” chef says. “Toasting rice keeps the starch inside the kernel, keeps it creamy. You want a porridge like consistency.”

    Then he adds the onion mixture back in, adds the heated lobster stock and stirs once.

    “You don’t constantly have to stir it?” I ask.

    “No stirring,” he insists. “If you have the experience you can tell when it’s ready just by touching the spoon to the rice.”

    OK.

    As the liquid reduces, he’ll add the liquid three more times, only stirring it occasionally. Adding a pinch of salt and ground black pepper here and there.

    At one point, we actually leave the hell temperature kitchen to check out the new lounge area and marble bar, leaving chef Jose Vela to add stock and stir. Note to self: Hire Jose.

    When we return to the kitchen the award-winning risotto is almost done. Chef Sheely explains that he has been working with Vela for ages.

    “And we’re still talking.”

    “Sometimes,” Vela mutters with a laugh.

    The recipe we’ve been working on is the lobster/tomato risotto that won last year’s festival. But now he is conferring with Vela about this year’s entry.

    “The buffalo mozzarella?”

    “Yes, I think so.”

    There is more muted discussion, but I look away and pretend to be interested in checking my e-mails. No need to alert the competition. I’m just here to learn some cooking skills.

    At this point, I realize the flame under the risotto is about the level of Dante’s Inferno.

    “I’m experienced,” says Sheely, as he flips the risotto in the pan. Do not try this at home.

    “You probably need to keep it on simmer.”

    And that flippy thing?

    “You can learn it,” Sheely says. “Practice with dry beans in the pan, you’ll get the hang of it.”

    Maybe, not so sure.

    Now he adds the cooked lobster pieces, butter and finally the cheese.

    “For risotto it must be Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano,” Sheely says. “Not some parma from Wisconsin.”

    He gently folds in the cheese.

    At this point he starts tasting.

    “You need disposable spoons or keep spoons in water, you have to continually taste for constancy and flavor.”

    Finally, after about 20 minutes, he spoons some into a bowl and finishes it with a drizzle of beurre blanc and presents it.

    “Do you want to try it?”

    “Uh, yeah, OK,” I try to say without salivating.

    We sit at the new bar and I tuck into the lobster risotto and try not to swoon.

    It is divine, creamy, yummy and very decadent.

    “You can make a delicious risotto with simple lemon, asparagus, rock shrimp, wild mushrooms and, of course, white truffles,” Sheely says, “which goes without saying.”

    So, can chef Sheely defend his title this October in the 8th annual International Risotto Festival?

    “We’re going to do our best,” he says. “It would be kinda cool to win two years in a row. But there are a lot of pretty good chefs out there.”

    Spoken like a true champ.

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    TxMo Best New Restaurants

    4 Houston spots make Texas Monthly's best new restaurants of 2026 list

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 2, 2026 | 9:00 am
    Agnes and Sherman food spread
    Photo by Vivian Leba
    Agnes and Sherman is Texas Monthly's Restaurant of the Year.

    Texas Monthly has revealed its 10 best new restaurants for 2026. Published Monday, March 2, the list is open to restaurants that opened between December 1, 2024 and October 31, 2025.

    Notably, it’s the first edition of the list written by Paula Forbes, who succeeded veteran writer Pat Sharpe last year. She writes that that 2025 was “a lackluster one for Texas restaurants. . . Restaurant experiences that feel truly worth it, that have the power to wow, are hard to come by. But they’re out there,” she continues.

    Forbes found those “worth it” experiences at restaurants in Houston, Austin, Dallas, San Antonio, and Paris, a small town in far northeast Texas near the Oklahoma border. Once again, Houston led the way with four spots. They are:

    • Agnes and Sherman, an Asian American diner in the Heights
    • Zaranda, a California-inspired Mexican restaurant in downtown
    • Di An Pho, a Vietnamese restaurant in Chinatown
    • Latuli, chef Bryan Caswell’s eclectic neighborhood restaurant in Memorial

    Forbes hails Agnes and Sherman as her Restaurant of the Year, writing that it deserves a promotion to four-star status after the three-star review she wrote in October. She praises a number of chef Nick Wong’s dishes, including a French dip sandwich, shrimp cocktail, and crab rangoon. “Wong respects the cuisines he riffs on but is not afraid to contort them. The combinations are irresistible,” she writes.

    Zaranda, James Beard Award winner Hugo Ortega’s ode to both the state of California and Baja California, earned its spot for its eponymous dish of seafood cooked in a wire basket, among other items. Forbes hails Di An Pho’s 70-year old chef Hung Van Tran for opening a restaurant that only serves his definitive versions of both beef and chicken pho. She writes that Latuli serves some of Caswell’s signature dishes from across his career, including “a crab-packed crab cake (served with spicy sorghum mustard), a pecan-smoked pork chop, and Shiner-steamed mussels.”

    Dallas restaurants take three spots on the list. At Rainbowcat, James Beard finalist Misti Norris is riffing on comfort fare such as chicken tenders, a McMuffin made with porchetta and braised greens, and a dessert inspired by Cinnamon Toast Crunch. Michelin-starred Mamani earns its spot for expertly-crafted French and Italian fare and a lengthy wine list. Sushi Kozy, led by Uchi Dallas alum Paul Ko, restored Forbes’ faith in omakase dining.

    Austin’s sole representative is Fish Shop, which serves West Coast-inspired seafood such as a Dungeness crab cocktail and halibut crudo alongside Gulf Coast-style fare such as well-sourced oysters.

    San Antonio’s Petit Coquin is Forbes’ “favorite” of the three French restaurants on the list thank to its “streamlined prix fixe menu and laissez-faire atmosphere,” she writes. Diners are encouraged to try dishes such as country pâté, steak au poivre, and rice pudding.

    BonFire, a French restaurant in Paris, TX, also has Houston ties. Chef Patten Sommers spent the early part of his career in the Bayou City, working at restaurants such as Triniti, Ciao Bello, and Brenner’s on the Bayou.

    The full list, in the order it's presented in the article, is as follows:

    1. Agnes and Sherman, an Asian American diner in Houston
    2. BonFire, a French restaurant in Paris
    3. Zaranda, a Mexican restaurant in Houston
    4. Fish Shop, a seafood restaurant in Austin
    5. Rainbowcat, a comfort food restaurant in Dallas
    6. Mamani, a French and Italian fine dining restaurant in Dallas
    7. Di An Pho, a Vietnamese restaurant in Houston
    8. Petit Coquin, a French restaurant in San Antonio
    9. Latuli, a modern American restaurant in Houston
    10. Sushi Kozy, a Japanese restaurant in Dallas

    Agnes and Sherman food spread
    Photo by Vivian Leba

    Agnes and Sherman is Texas Monthly's Restaurant of the Year.

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