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    Vegging Out

    This raw vegan recipe lets you have your (chocolate) cake — and eat it, too

    Joel Luks
    Aug 28, 2011 | 3:54 pm
    This raw vegan recipe lets you have your (chocolate) cake — and eat it, too
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    Turning away a delicious, rich and densely dark chocolate torte is a sin needing confession. Breaking its silky smooth outer skin decisively with a fork, working slowly down its innermost layers, feeling a slight resistance until it meets the bottom. Eat me, it says, naughtily.

    Such a tease, though not so sporadically, I am forced to deny myself the pleasure.

    I can't indulge in the titillating treat as many baked goods out in the foodie world depend on dairy and eggs — which seems as antiquated as depending on Sweet & Low for a low-calorie artificial sweetener — for their indulgent attitude. But that doesn't have to be the case.

    Replacing eggs is a walk in park. After learning to discern their function, the spawn of poultry can easily be replaced with blended silken tofu, sticky soaked and blended flaxseeds, applesauce or egg replacer products now widely available at most health food stores.

    Butter? There's Earth Balance.

    Cream cheese? Hail the Tofutti.

    And whipped — I prefer calling it whooped — cream? I learned a trick from vegan gourmand and winner of Cupcake Wars, Chloe Coscarelli, with chilled canned coconut milk.

    Though it may seem I can have my cake — and eat it, too — it often goes that the medical-esque condition that demands the immediate consumption of cake is often not fulfilled due to the necessary time delay to craft one, bake one and frost one.

    Well, dang it.

    "I can make one in three minutes," Gwen Marzano said with poise. The certified vegan chef and raw food instructor implied that by the time I finish watching the latest YouTube meme, I could have a wicked and risque dessert sliced, with frosting, on a plate ready for my pleasure.

    Too good to be true. Nothing can bake that quickly. And in the "baking" was the guarded secret.

    There's no baking. It's raw, vegan — wait for it — and good for you.

    Marzano had concocted a recipe for raw vegan chocolate cake without fiber-devoid flour, no processed sweeteners, no veg butter and fashioned to be healthy and without any refined carbs.

    Sacrebleu. Incroyable.

    The quintessential torte consistency was achieved by pulverizing walnuts, mixing in a few dates just to get a touch of sweetness, using raw cacao — which is different that traditional cocoa —a drip of vanilla extract, sea salt and a dab of coconut oil. All prepared in a food processor within seconds, formed by hand and decorated by a snowy layer of shredded coconut and berries du jour.

    ​Until I tasted the cake, I was a non-believer. But now I am found.

    The raw cacao — as opposed to its roasted counterpart, regular cocoa powder — retains all its natural antioxidants, making it more potent than red wine or blueberries. The walnuts contribute healthy oils in the form of omega 3 fatty acids, phosphorous, magnesium and a strapping quota of fiber — keeping that tush regular and happy.

    Dates add even more bulk, and their high tanning content helps the body detoxify.

    Raw vegan cuisine, as explained by Marzano, is a mixture of science and art where creativity is intensified and the traditional function of everyday ingredients is stretch to its limits. It may seem radical, but when considering the ridiculous techniques we are willing to apply to food — which is biological fuel for the body — for sake of gourmand sublimity, cuisine au naturel is outright sensible.

    With a plethora of food allergies, Marzano's journey into raw veganism stemmed from the need to abstain from consuming dairy, gluten, soy, sugar and corn. After completing a certification in raw vegan prep and instruction at Chicago's Cousin's Incredible Vitality, Marzano embarked in the task of translating traditional dishes such as burgers, potato salad, cheesecake, lemon pie — and of course, cake — from their traditional versions into much healthier interpretations.

    Today, she is the healthy eating specialist at Whole Foods Market Houston Metro and on the side, works as a raw foods chef and caters under the G's Healthy Delights brand.

    It is the belief that applying heat to foods creates toxins in otherwise healthy ingredients. Nitrosamines, chemical compounds formed when cooking, preserving in salt and smoking, become cancer-causing carcinogens.

    Think about it, we are the only species on the planet that alters natural resources for consumption to this extent. Is it that militant and extremist to consider rawism as a more congenital impulse?

    I am no neophyte to this theory. In fact, it was Houston's raw vegan queen Pat Greer, Elizabeth Harris — and her chocolate mousse — that challenged and muddled my logic and introduced me to the long history which precedes the Atkins protein-orgy fad.

    The origins of raw foods as a medical therapy stems from the inventor of muesli — now a popular uncooked breakfast cereal mingling rolled oats, dried fruits and nuts. Dr. Maximilian Bircher-Benner (1867 - 1939) recovered from jaundice by eating raw apples. The legacy of the sanatorium he established in 1904 in Zurich is alive and well under the direction of his nephew Andres Bircher, now located roughly two hours southeast of its original location, in Braunwald.

    The movement is gaining strength in the United States — mostly in California (no shock here) — though already very popular in England, Australia and Germany. It has inspired documentaries like Supercharge Me! 30 Days Raw — as a response to Morgan Spurlock's Super Size Me.

    But it's not without its medical controversy with studies claiming Vitamin B12, dental erosion, lower bone density, low in calcium, Vitamin D, iron, zinc and protein — with other papers focusing on a raw diet's effectiveness in treating diabetes, high blood pressure, reversing atherosclerosis, arthritis and inflammation.

    Marzano keeps it balanced and aims for an 80 percent raw diet, adding cooked foods and sometimes fish to reach her personal nutritional goals, managing her allergies and helping her look radiant and fabulous. Her chocolate cake is proof that only creativity is the barrier between the delicious and the healthy.

    Have your cake, eat it too, and feel good about it. Here are her recipes.

    Gwen Marzano's three-minute raw vegan chocolate cake recipe:

    • 2 cups raw walnuts
    • 1/2 cup chopped, pitted dates
    • 3/4 cup raw cacao
    • 1/4 cup agave nectar
    • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
    • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
    • 1 tablespoon coconut oil
    • Shredded coconut and berries for garnish

    In a food processor, chop the walnuts for about 20 seconds until a sandy consistency is achieved. Do not over process or else the cake will be oily. Add in the pitted dates, cacao, coconut oil, nectar, vanilla and salt, pulse a couple of times and then process for 15 seconds until the mixture comes together in a ball.

    Form into a cake, dot with shredded coconut and decorate with berries. For a more luxurious finish, try the frosting:

    Gwen's cashew-vanilla frosting:

    • 1/2 cup raw cashews soaked for 10 minutes
    • 1/4 cup agave nectar
    • 1 tablespoon coconut oil or coconut butter
    • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
    • 1/2 cup water

    Blend all ingredients. Place in the fridge to cool and thicken.

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    Notes from a chef

    Globe-trotting Houston chef reviews Noma's $1,500 Los Angeles pop-up

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 9, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles
    Courtesy of David Skinner
    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

    [Editor’s note: When David Skinner, chef and owner of Kemah’s celebrated eculent and Ishtia restaurants, offered to share his experience eating at one of the world’s best restaurants, we said, of course. Read on for his experience at Copenhagen restaurant Noma’s pop-up in Los Angeles that took place this summer. Take it away, David.]

    The crab was alive a few minutes before I ate it.

    Just before service, the kitchen broke down a Dungeness crab and set it over open charcoal, the downtown Los Angeles skyline behind the smoke. It came to the table wreathed in dried pink pepper branches, with a butter sauce built on the same pepper. I've eaten crab all over the world — this was maybe the best crab ever.

    That was the first of 17 courses at Noma LA, and the best bite of the afternoon. Leading with your best shot is either confidence or a statement. By the end of lunch, I'd decided it was both.

    The residency had begun in turmoil. Founder René Redzepi stepped away from the residency the day it opened, following a news investigation into allegations of demeaning treatment of staff — conduct that had been discussed in industry circles for years. Protesters gathered at the gate that day. The kitchen, led by Pablo Soto, carried on through the residency's close on June 26.

    I went for lunch at the Paramour Estate, the 1920s Mediterranean mansion in Silver Lake that Noma called home for 16 weeks. For more than 30 years, I've traveled the world in search of culture, a little mystery, and always food, eating everywhere from strangers' kitchen tables to three-Michelin-star dining rooms.

    As the chef behind eculent and Ishtia in Kemah, I also eat with a cook's eye — which means I'll tell you what was brilliant and what was oversalted. Noma LA had a little of both, but after a half dozen meals at Noma over the past 10 years, I can say this one was a standout.

    The setup

    The logistics alone are remarkable. Noma relocated roughly 130 staff members and their families to Los Angeles and built a pantry sourced within 300 miles of the mansion. Lunch ran 17 courses over about four hours at $1,500 per person, including beverages and gratuity.

    Chef Soto greeted us at the entrance with the full kitchen staff, a Noma tradition. By the time I arrived, the protesters were long gone, and the brigade seemed to be cooking with a sense of relief.

    Rather than choose between the wine pairing and the nonalcoholic program, we asked our server, Mara, to mix the two course by course. She nailed it, moving from a sparkling rose-and-pink-pepper drink to a bright cherimoya lemonade to a 25-year-old Tony Coturri zinfandel from Glen Ellen that became the table's favorite pour.

    The standouts

    The crab. It opened the meal, and nothing that followed topped it. The pink pepper did double duty with the dried branches perfuming the shell, the butter sauce carrying a gentle heat — the sweet, smoky meat needed nothing else. Alongside came a 2022 Phelan Farm chardonnay from Rajat Parr's Cambria operation: white Burgundy in spirit, California in its bones.

    The cactus. Pickled tacinga cactus, marinated in Oaxacan mezcal and citrus and crowned with honeypot ants, arrived beneath a live cactus paddle with a eucalyptus handle.

    The acorn. A single braised acorn, glazed with black pepper, sat atop an uni custard made with Santa Barbara sea urchin and caviar in hoja santa oil. The server described it as a nod to California's Indigenous peoples. As a Choctaw, whose ancestors relied on acorns for thousands of years, I felt that one. It was also the most technically accomplished savory course of the meal.

    The seaweed and clams. Six varieties of Southern California seaweed with butter-kissed clams tasted like the coast itself. This is Noma at its best: not interpreting California so much as listening to it.

    The tuna eye. I've eaten cod eye at Noma in Copenhagen, but this version was way better. The kitchen removed the tough cornea, replaced it with a thin disk of kumquat, and served the eye chilled inside a ruby-red banana flower bract. Rich and gelatinous, it's eaten in one bite. When our table wondered aloud where the rest of all that tuna goes, Mara had the answer: family meal for the staff.

    The kelp mole. Grilled greens, a squash blossom stuffed with huitlacoche, and an artichoke on its stalk arrived with tortillas from Komal, one of Los Angeles's top heirloom molinos, paired with a mole built on kelp.

    Between the acorn, the cactus, and the mole, a question kept surfacing: what does it mean for a Danish kitchen to arrive in someone else's pantry and cook as though it has always been there? Some of these ingredients have fed Indigenous and Mexican cooks for centuries. Noma handled them with obvious respect and real curiosity. Sometimes, though, the line between homage and borrowing comes down to whether you're willing to say the name out loud.

    Dessert kept the surprises coming, including a macadamia custard served in a sunflower whose base turned out to be beeswax. The finale arrived as a bundle of ferns tied with string. Diners snip it open with tiny scissors to find a chocolate cookie and a fortune inside. Mine quoted Nietzsche: You must have chaos within you to give birth to a dancing star.

    Nietzsche, at $1,500 a head, in a Silver Lake mansion, from a kitchen whose founder walked away on opening day while protesters stood at the gate. The kitchen knew exactly what it was doing.

    The full menu, course by course

    For those keeping score, here's the complete lineup.

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab
    Daylily crab dumpling — The rest of the crab, tucked inside a trumpet-shaped daylily with buds plumped in crustacean liquor. The flower dominated; the crab was the reason to eat it.
    Chilled lobster broth — Spiny lobster stock, dashi, and elderflower oil served chilled in the lobster's own coral-colored shell. A palate reset dressed as a course.
    Spot prawn with matcha — Served in real seaweed, the head filled with smoked pumpkin paste for sucking, the tail painted with matcha. Paired with the 2024 Verso from Caleb Leisure in Sebastopol.
    Sea urchin custard and braised acorn
    Cactus with mezcal
    Ragout of California botanicals — Seasonal greens, peas, and herbs in a warm, quiet preparation, tied together by a hint of horseradish.
    SoCal seaweed and clam
    Tuna neck — Minced tuna neck in a koji-inoculated steamed bun with the texture of suede, topped with translucent shards of dried chicken-stock skin. Paired with the 2000 Estate Zinfandel from Tony Coturri.
    Tuna eye
    Black pearl rice steamed in avocado leaf — Ringed with pistachio oil and scattered with dime-sized macadamia slices. Humble ingredients in the spirit of California great Jeremiah Tower.
    Morels with habanero and yuzu — Sierra Nevada morels on turkey-tail mushrooms over hot stones. Bright and spicy, but heavy on the salt.
    Greens and grilled artichoke in spiced kelp mole
    Cherimoya and lemongrass — A green cocoa butter shell shaped like a cactus, hiding a smooth cherimoya ice cream. A California fruit most California menus ignore.
    Macadamia milk custard and pistachio — Topped with heirloom Hong Kong kumquats from a handful of research trees that fruit four weeks a year, served in a beeswax-lined sunflower.
    Silver Lake fortune cookie — A Chiapas chocolate mousse cookie garnished with insects, hidden in a bundle of ferns you cut open with tiny scissors. Fortune included.

    The misses

    Not every course landed. Morels with habanero and yuzu were oversalted, and some presentations were delivered too quietly to catch the full story. At $1,500 a seat, the storytelling should be as confident as the cooking.

    The verdict

    Having now eaten Noma's traveling editions in Tulum and Los Angeles, I'll offer an opinion that may be unpopular in certain circles: the pop-ups are better than Copenhagen. Maybe it's the hunt for new ingredients, or the urgency of a 16-week run in a borrowed house. Whatever the reason, the results are hard to argue with. I put that theory to the test in August, when I returned to Noma on my birthday, three days after it reopened with Soto at the helm. More on that meal soon.

    Noma LA wasn't really a restaurant. It was an argument about a place, made in food, by people who flew 6,000 miles to make it. The argument was frequently brilliant, occasionally presumptuous, and closed with Nietzsche in a fortune cookie. On balance, it won.

    ----

    David Skinner is a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas and the owner of eculent and Ishtia in Kemah. He also writes the culinary travel journal Destination Eater on Substack.

    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles

    Courtesy of David Skinner

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

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