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    Restaurant Scene Shakeup

    Powerhouse duo shakes up the Houston restaurant scene by creating a new pop-up heaven

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 22, 2014 | 4:23 pm

    Only a couple of years ago, Houston's dining scene maintained several high-profile pop-ups with names like: the Just August Project, Money Cat, Tenacity and Pilot Light. One of the first public appearance of Chris Shepherd's signature Korean braised goat and dumplings came at a Grand Prize pop-up.

    People who attended those events realized something special was going on, and, indeed, the talent behind them has opened some of the city's best restaurants: Oxheart (Just August, Money Cat), The Pass & Provisions (Just August, Pilot Light) and, obviously, Underbelly.

    While pop-ups continue to happen at places like The Flat and Glitter Karaoke, Treadsack co-owner Chris Cusack and executive chef Benjy Mason, two of the principles behind popular Heights concepts Down House and D&T Drive Inn, recognized the need for a dedicated facility where up and coming chefs could try ideas and build an audience for future concepts. They've established a new space known as Kipper Club Test Kitchen that they hope will give an outlet for such endeavors. The idea is to help foster the next Oxheart, as it were.

    If Cusack delivers on his promise to bring in new talent, Kipper Club could emerge as one of the fall's best openings.

    Cusack tells CultureMap that he and Mason were inspired by the Indie Chefs Week dinner they attended at Foreign and Domestic in Austin. "The energy was incredible," Cusack recalls.

    Despite his initial reluctance to lease another restaurant, once Cusack saw the former Tippy's Soul Food, Fried Chicken and More space he decided "this place is too good." The building was in good shape, only needing mild renovations to become the Kipper Club. Furthermore, the lease rate is reasonable enough that it doesn't have to be open every day.

    Also, with plans for the company's construction permits for its new dual restaurant complex for Hunky Dory and Foreign Correspondents at Shepherd and 18th Street only receiving city approval on Aug. 13 (meaning they won't open until 2015 instead of this fall), Kipper Club gives the future chefs of those concepts a way to cook for people and test ideas.

    "We have Richard (Knight) and PJ (Stoops) who are dying to cook," Cusack says. "We've had some big dinners at our houses," but Kipper Club will provide more people with the opportunity to taste the dishes they're developing.

    Not surprisingly, Knight will kick off the program with a dinner on Friday, Sept. 26. Cusack is working to get others lined up quickly. "Some are people you know and like," he promises. Others are up-and-coming sous chef types looking for an opportunity or out of town guests in the model of the Indie Chefs Week dinners.

    Each of the meals will run from three to five courses and include complementary beverage pairings. Prices will run from $75 to $115. The dedicated space means chefs can host two seatings or even host a run over several days that will allow dishes to evolve based on experience and feedback from diners.

    Sign up for the email list, like Kipper Club on Facebook or follow it on Twitter for updates.

    Get ready for some fun — if Cusack delivers on his promise to bring in new talent, Kipper Club could emerge as one of the fall's best openings.

    Chef Richard Knight will kick off the Kipper Club Test Kitchen Friday September 26.

    Kipper Club Richard Knight
    Courtesy photo
    Chef Richard Knight will kick off the Kipper Club Test Kitchen Friday September 26.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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