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    Vegging Out

    A vegan Mexican restaurant with a beer garden and a killer brunch? Staci Davisgets Radical

    Joel Luks
    Aug 15, 2011 | 11:20 am
    • To make the outdoor area a vegetable beer and wine garden, Davis has begun aKickstarter campaign in hopes of raising $8,000. Sponsorship packages begin at$5.
    • Owner Staci Davis smiles at her success. She hopes to add many improvements tothe venue including a vegetable beer and wine garden.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • A first trip to the Sunday vegan brunch buffet at Radical Eats Cafe. The optionsgrew over time.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Radical Eats Cafe at 3903 Fulton.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Chiles rellenos filled with vegan picadillo were one of the highlights at thebrunch buffet.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Fried avocado tacos on a gluten-free tortilla, Spanish rice and refried beans.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Fried jalapeno poppers filled with vegan cream cheese dipped in a light avocadosauce.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Stuffed chayote squash.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Tofu scramble perfectly seasoned. Who needs eggs?
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Fried Jambalaya okra.
      Photo by Joel Luks

    Nothing makes me happier than seeing ambitious entrepreneurs/business owners busting their behinds, making things happen. Though an all-you-can-eat vegan and gluten-free buffet does come darn close, and know that I am willing to give up those business values if the grub makes me happily frolic.

    Luckily, in this story, I get to have both.

    I love when good vegan food surprises people and eradicates its bland, tasteless stereotype. Who needs pork fat? Emeril is so last decade.

    At the first of what will be many vegan brunch buffets at Radical Eats' brand new cafe, a steady clientele filled the quaint little Mexican restaurant — which feels more like you are in restaurateur Staci Davis dining room than a casual eatery — and grazed on an appetizing spread of edibles which included cheese grits, rice pudding, stuffed chayote squash, Chiles rellenos with picadillo, refried beans, tofu scramble, coleslaw and spaghetti squash pudding, on the first trip.

    The options increased over time. The vegan goddess passed out fried Jambalaya okra — a jumbo-sized vegetable fresh from Hanka Farms she found at Urban Harvest Farmers Market — lightly fried in gluten-free breading. Dipping sauce was available, but none was needed for this perfectly indulgent treat. Davis loves nothing more than trading with farmers and cooking with as many fresh, local ingredients as possible — no shopping list required.

    "Opening a restaurant is like having a baby," Davis said. "You think you are done when you give birth, but then the baby starts crying and you can't get enough sleep. Then it begins to walk and talk and do better."

    That was followed by an endless supply of spinach and corn tamales, which have become a staple for Davis' fans.

    This Sunday, vegan pancakes are supposed to make a fashionable appearance.

    Thirsty? From the selection of aguas frescas — watermelon, cantaloupe, peach and Jamaica (hibiscus) — I chose the strawberry horchata. Light, creamy (courtesy of the touch of rice milk) and not too sweet, the refreshing fruity concoction smoothed the flavorful fare.

    If you don't make it to the Sunday buffet, I suggest beginning with the jalapeno poppers (filled with vegan cream cheese) and indulging in the fried avocado tacos. The spinach or mushrooms enchiladas are ridiculous — and gluten free — and served with a mole or creamy almond sauce.

    I first met Davis at Urban Harvest a few years back when I began my quest to find cruelty-free local food vendors — this is also where I met Brittany Carnes of Sinfull Bakery (remember the cinnamon rolls?) and Pat Greer and her raw vegan kitchen (candy lady turned raw veg). Davis talked about owning her own place and even showed me blueprints of what would become the Heights Ashbury Coffeehouse. She planned on serving her creations there beginning with tacos and tamales, which she did for a couple of weeks when the hangout first opened.

    With larger visions, it was the kitchen size and limited access to the facilities that drove Davis' to look for a place exclusively dedicated to Radical Eats. She found the locale in her own neighborhood at 3903 Fulton just north of Downtown Houston. It used to be the home of Kiko's Mexican Cafe and Martinez Cafe, reopening as Radical Eats Cafe on July 3 focusing on comida vegetariana — vegetarian (vegan) Mexican food.

    "Opening a restaurant is like having a baby," she said. "You think you are done when you give birth, but then the baby starts crying and you can't get enough sleep. Then it begins to walk and talk and do better. You are all in from the start."

    The venue is modestly filled with mismatched tables, comfy seating and sacks of burlap acting as window coverings. Think of it as a melange of a stereotypical Austin down-to-earth scene and an unpretentious workmanlike feel.

    Not all of Davis' customers follow a vegan diet or lifestyle, they just like good eats and food is a great catalyst to begin that conversation.

    Opening was tough, and at times, Davis questioned whether she should change her hours to accommodate her scarce clientele. It wasn't too long before the word spread about her whereabouts. Her business volume doubled — cleaning out her supplies completely on some days — forcing Davis to close for three-days to re-strategize, reorganize and get ready for the increased traffic.

    "This venture has been really expensive," she explained. "I also feel pressure that the people that I am hiring also do well. They have to make a living, too."

    Future plans include securing a beer/wine license, sprucing up the exteriors by painting the mural and logo wall, replacing the roof, beginning a coffee program, offering raspas, more desserts, pastries and keeping Radical Eats Cafe open until midnight. Tortas (Mexican sandwiches) will be making a comeback on the menu with bread provided by Slow Dough Bread Company.

    Using Kickstarter crowd sourcing funding platform, Davis hopes to gather $8,000 (sponsorship packages range from $5 to $1,000) to transform the patio into a vegetable, beer and wine garden using recycled materials, acquire a water filtration system and invest in air conditioning improvements. She imagines an outdoor area sparkling with Italian lights under a canopy and a whole bunch of veggies growing from which she can create impromptu seasonal dishes.

    As with all Kickstarter campaigns, no monies are awarded if the goal isn't reached by the target date of Sept. 11.

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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Sneak peek at members-only wine club and restaurant opening soon in Upper Kirby

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 2, 2026 | 10:22 am
    55 Seventy Houston rendering
    Courtesy of 55 Seventy
    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    A wine-driven, members-only club is currently under construction next to Upper Kirby’s Levy Park. Called 55 Seventy, the game-changing facility is on track to open at the end of November.

    Prior to opening 55 Seventy’s original Dallas location in 2022, founder Tommy Shuey worked in finance. During the Covid-19 pandemic, he started looking around for new business ventures and quickly discovered that Dallas’ private wine storage facilities were completely sold out, despite, in his assessment, being relatively out of the way compared to where its clients live and not very nice inside.

    “The thought was, why don't I just make this nicer and charge more and put it in their backyard and really offer that quality and convenience that I feel like a wine collector would appreciate on storing wine,” Shuey tells CultureMap.

    He also envisioned a club component that would offer more than just a place for collectors to drink. It would provide a full service restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, along with the ability to host private events with custom menus. Dallasite embraced the concept, selling out memberships and prompting Shuey and his partner, sommelier Jeff Gregory, to search for a second location. They quickly identified Houston as the right place to expand.

    Bigger and better

    “Our winery partners, when they come for a tasting, they always go to Houston first or second,” Shuey says. Later, he adds, “The more I started digging into this Houston market, the more this is not going to be news to you, but you start unraveling this underbelly of wine in Houston. I'm convinced that Houston is the largest wine city in the country. It is unbelievable.”

    With lessons learned from the Dallas location, Houston’s 55 Seventy will be even more grand — a 30,000-square-foot, newly constructed building that will be able to hold as many as 150,000 bottles of wine while offering its members two restaurants, a demonstration kitchen, lounge areas, private dining and meeting spaces, and an art gallery. Houston's Gin Design Group is handling the interiors; as illustrated above, the club will have an Art Deco-inspired design.

    55 Seventy Houston rendering

    Courtesy of 55 Seventy

    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    “We've learned so much. A lot of it is learning, hey, we have to do this differently or we want to do it this way,” Shuey says. “And some of it's a guess. I think people are going to use the club differently from Dallas. I think Houston is a later city, and I think that they come in bigger groups more frequently than Dallas.

    “The one thing we know for sure is that Houston is a more adventurous food city. And it's a higher bar than Dallas. And so we hired two chefs, both of Michelin experience, to elevate the program.”

    While the food program will follow the template created in Dallas by executive chef and partner Josh Sutcliff, a veteran of Dallas’ acclaimed FT33 who’s committed to local sourcing and scratch cooking, day-to-day operations will be overseen by executive chef Diego Fernandez, who brings experience from Michelin-starred restaurants Alinea (Chicago), Quince (San Francisco), and time with research and development team at Pappas Restaurants. Executive banquet chef Jacob Solomon brings experience from the Michael Mina group to all of 55 Seventy’s private dining and events.

    55 Seventy’s main restaurant is located on its first floor. It will feature a wide-ranging menu centered around steak and seafood, along with sushi and vegetarian items. Shuey notes that many items will be able to be modified to accommodate gluten-free and other food allergies. Whereas the Dallas location opened with a 220-square-foot kitchen, later expanded to 660, the Houston club will have almost 2,000 square feet of kitchen space, giving both chefs plenty of room to cook.

    The second restaurant is called Canopy Bar. Located on the roof, it will serve pizzas and other Mediterranean-style fare. A nano wall will protect diners from the elements.

    “The goal is to have something a little more casual and approachable,” Shuey says. “I think what we're most excited about is to have those two very different restaurant options for our members versus in Dallas.”

    Shuey has made a similar commitment to the wine side of 55 Seventy by recruiting master sommelier Justin Moore to serve as executive director of wine. Most recently with Washington, D.C.’s Rose’s Restaurant Group that operates three, one-star Michelin restaurants — Pineapple and Pearls, Rose’s Luxury, and Little Pearl — Moore will oversee the club’s wine list as well as a wine brokerage service that will help members grow their collections.

    “I have deep respect for the classic benchmark producers, and I love finding the bottle nobody has heard of yet,” Moore said in a statement. “Houston appreciates both, and our list will reflect that.”

    Who the members are

    Two months before opening, 55 Seventy has already sold about 1,000 memberships. Ultimately, the club could offer as many as 3,000, but Shuey wants to build that slow. For now, the aim is to have enough people that both restaurants feel lively and that members are able to make connections with each other over great bottles.

    Beyond being able to pay the various fees — an initial payment of $6,000 for an individual, $7,500 for a couple, or $20,000 for a company, plus about $500 per month — Shuey says members typical have a certain perspective in common.

    “It's somebody who is at the stage of their life where they appreciate the finer things, food, wine, cocktails, and hospitality. If they're willing to appreciate the fact that we are sourcing our beef from a local producer, and they'll pay a little bit more for that because it's quality. It's somebody who wants their wine made by hand by a winemaker who's reputable and not by a machine and a factory somewhere. It's really somebody that wants our staff to know their name when they walk in and feel appreciated.

    “You're talking about partners at law firms, business owners, wealth management, firm partners, you're talking about people that live in the area and just love food and wine. People that work in the industry that have that like real appreciation for what we're building. And we don't want it to be stuffy. We want it to be approachable.”

    As he notes, service is a big part of 55 Seventy’s appeal. Since it isn’t operating with the same financial considerations as a stand-alone restaurant, the club doesn’t need to turn tables. A member can claim a spot all night, drink a bottle from their cellar, and eat as much or as little as they want to.

    55 Seventy is expected to open on Friday, November 27. It will be located at 3015 Richmond Ave. Membership inquiries may be directed to membership.houston@55seventy.com.

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