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    Beard dinner at Lucille's

    James Beard taps Houston chefs for prestigious awards dinner

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 28, 2021 | 2:27 pm
    Dawn Burrell Chris Williams Lucille's Hospitality Group
    Chefs Dawn Burrell and Chris Williams will host a dinner for the James Beard Foundation.
    Photo by Jenn Duncan

    The James Beard Foundation is coming back to Houston. As parts of its replacement for its awards programming in 2021, the organization has selected Midtown restaurant Lucille's to host one of five watch party dinners nationwide.

    The meal, which will take place September 27, will be held during the screening of James Beard Awards: Stories of Resilience and Leadership, which the foundation describes as "a salute to the independent restaurant community, showcasing some of the organizations, leaders, and businesses that have made a significant impact in the industry and their communities during the COVID-19 pandemic." Other dinners will be held in Chicago, Oakland, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C.

    The program replaces the foundation's traditional awards ceremony, which will return in 2022 after an audit to improve the process by which the awards' winners are selected. Reporting by the New York Times revealed that none of 2020's Black nominees won their categories; some members of the foundation also raised concerns about the nominations of chefs accused of unethical behavior, including some nominees who withdrew their names from consideration.

    “We look forward to getting together — both virtually and in-person — with the help of our host city of Chicago and culinary hubs across the country,” Dawn Padmore, vice president of the James Beard Awards, said in a statement, “to acknowledge some of the incredible leaders who have been so dedicated and integral in helping our industry and their communities throughout this past devastating year.”

    The program will also be streamed live on Twitter beginning at 7 pm. To encourage viewers to host their own watch parties, the foundation will sell a party kit featuring bites from four James Beard House Fellows, a program of training and professional development for emerging chefs. The kit will go on sale in early September.

    Lucille's chef-owner Chris Williams and chef Dawn Burrell will prepare the meal. The two chefs have teamed up to open Late August, a restaurant devoted to Afro-Asian cuisine, later this year in Midtown's Ion mixed-use development. Held in collaboration with the Houston First Corporation, attendance will be invite-only, but details about a public after party will be released closer to the event.

    Williams is certainly a fitting host for the dinner. Last year, he founded Lucille's 1913, a non-profit that has served thousands of meals to Houstonians in need. He also kept his restaurant running throughout the pandemic and established the Lucille's Hospitality Group to open Late August and other new concepts.

    "When the pandemic first hit, it was terrifying. Our goal was to keep our staff safe and whole, while providing impactful solutions to help the community that has supported us for nearly a decade — we did that through the founding of our non-profit, Lucille’s 1913," Williams said in a statement. "For every story like ours, there’s another story of a hardworking, independent restaurant team that wasn’t as fortunate. They did everything right, and yet, they aren’t here today. That’s why an event like this one is so important. It’s refreshing to see this pivot by the James Beard Foundation that not only highlights the talents of chefs, but also their lasting impact on their own communities."

    Burrell, who raised her profile by making it to the finals of the most recent season of Top Chef, experienced her own career disruption due to the pandemic. Despite earning a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for her work at downtown restaurant Kulture, she left the restaurant to protect the health of her family. Prior to partnering with Williams, she founded Pivot, a meal delivery service, and popped up at events.

    “It’s such an honor to participate in this year’s initiative. Now more than ever, the support of the James Beard Foundation is needed to celebrate and empower the restaurant industry’s resilience," Burrell said. "We suffered an incredibly trying year, and many independent restaurants are still struggling right now. I’m thankful to work with this Lucille’s Hospitality Group team, whose passions and will to serve our community helped us pivot and persevere, but thousands of small restaurants were not as fortunate. A huge thanks to JBF for acknowledging the state of the industry with this event, while providing educational and financial resources during this extremely trying time.”

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    chefs vs somms

    Chris Shepherd introduces a new party game for food and wine lovers

    Chris Shepherd
    Jul 24, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Chris Shepherd Chefs vs Sommeliers
    Courtesy of Chris Shepherd
    Maneet Chauhan, Cassidee Dabney, and Chris Shepherd represented the chefs.

    I have a new game for you! A few years ago I wrote a piece — that some of you still talk to me about — about a game called Wine Club Death Match! Now, here is a new one for a group of friends that get together. Take this one and run with it and have an absolute party!

    Are you ready? Let’s get into it.

    Last month, I was asked to take part in an event during Aspen Food & Wine called Chefs vs Somms. This event pairs three chefs vs three sommeliers in a battle of smell, taste, and a good amount of smack talking. The premise of this challenge is finding the best pairings for four snacks from a group of 10 wines.

    Here is the low down on how we did it:

    The Teams

    Chefs: Cassidee Dabney, Chef at The Barn at Blackberry Farm; Maneet Chauhan, Chef, Restauranteur, and TV personality; Me

    Sommeliers: Arjav Ezekial, Birdie’s; Amanda McCrossin, sommelier and wine personality (if you like wine, you should follow her!); Chris Dunaway, wine director of The Little Nell.

    Four snacks

    • Deviled egg
    • Prosciutto wrapped Granny Smith apple
    • A spiced samosa
    • Caramelized fish sauce chicken wings

    Ten wines

    • IWA Sake Assemblage 5
    • 2023 Domaine du Cellier aux Moines Aligoté Sous les Roches
    • 2024 Tiberio Pecorino
    • 2023 Vietti Timorasso Colli Tortonesi
    • 2024 Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas
    • 2023 Guigal Tavel
    • 2022 Analemma Trousseau
    • NV Lini Labrusco Lambrusco Rosso
    • 2024 Giant Steps Circle of Fifths Pinot Noir
    • 2022 Cume do Avia Colleita 10 Red Ribeiro

    The game

    Each team deliberates separately to pick the best pairing to go with the first snack, the deviled egg. The competitors have to get into the details of each dish. For this one, we had to consider how much mustard there is versus the mayonnaise, sweet or dill relish, how much onion, salt, and pepper. Then, we went through the 10 wines to see what our team likes best.

    Chris Shepherd Chefs vs Sommeliers

    Courtesy of Chris Shepherd

    Maneet Chauhan, Cassidee Dabney, and Chris Shepherd represented the chefs.

    We had to sell our pick to the rest of the group (ours was an audience of 100 people) to convince them that we chose the best pairing. Once a wine is chosen from one team, it’s off the board, which means it can no longer. We had to plan our attack — and sabotage when we must! We had to think about what really does pair well and what we thought the other team might want to use in the future, so we can mess with their heads and shake things a bit.

    For the deviled egg, we picked the 2023 Guigal Tavel. We thought that rosé and deviled eggs would make people think about spring time, sitting on a patio enjoying a beautiful brunch with friends. At the same time, the Somms were plotting away at their pick. They chose the Tiberio Pecorino, which is a super crisp floral white wine. After the somms made their case, we verbally battled back and forth like a bunch of lawyers in a courtroom. Was rosé the best pick? We tried to sway the jury, but the chefs lost round one. It’s ok though, it’s a game of strategy, and we had more rounds to go.

    We battled each round, blow by blow, trying to get our opinions in. The chefs are very matter of fact about things because well, that’s what we do. The somms would argue their points: “The floral notes of this….” Blah blah blah. As the chefs would say, “What grows together goes together...” Blah blah blah. As the rounds go on, the more you taste, the better the verbal battle becomes!

    In the end, we tied, which is how it was supposed to be. Two teams giving it their all and having a blast with friends.

    One thing that really resonated was that the two teams need each other to run successful operations and to be better for our guests. We work together to provide hospitality and a true vision of what we think a restaurant service can be. It’s emotional and beautiful all at the same time. When everything clicks, the guest has the time of their life.

    The reason I am write about this is that you and your friends can have these same experiences together — as well and form a bond that no one can dispute. Hospitality calls in many ways, not just in the walls of a restaurant, but in the walls of your own home.

    How you choose to engage in those moments is what defines us as humans and as friends. Battle it out on a Saturday night. You will find that a bond forms, because you were together learning, tasting, and possibly a little shit talking. That’s what friends and hospitality are all about.

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