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    Foodie News

    A meal that will change your life? New restaurant teases with Marcus Samuelssonassist

    Sarah Rufca
    Jul 25, 2012 | 3:28 pm
    • The doro wett poached egg with foie gras
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Marcus Samuelsson (and his much commented-on attire) took questions from dinersbetween courses.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Seth Siegel-Gardner shares a hug with Underbelly chef/owner Chris Shepherd atthe conclusion of the lunch. Shepherd and Philip Speer of Uchi were a couplelocal heavyweights who lent a hand in the kitchen.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Toasted caraway pasta with roe, creme friache and dill
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The Yes, Chef menu
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Curry peach cake and ice cream with watermelon and berries
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Pass and Provision's Terrence Gallivan lends a hand with the wine pairings.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • A Vietnamese-influenced shrimphead spring roll with an apple wrapper
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Sweet breads and veal wrapped in bok choy with grapefruit and orange.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca

    "I'm expecting this lunch to change my life," said the girl next to me as we sat down at the "Yes, Chef" lunch, held at Hofheinz House.

    Normally expectations like that would border on insane, but when you're talking about a menu created by internationally renowned chef Marcus Samuelsson and soon-to-open Pass & Provisions restaurant founders Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner (who trained in New York under Samuelsson at August and Aquavit, respectively), anything is possible.

    Siegel-Gardner and Gallivan left the kitchen rarely, but Samuelsson was front and center throughout the three-hour luncheon, signing copies of his memior, Yes, Chef, beforehand, mingling with diners and answering questions from the audience between courses, from what spice he would be (berbere, the one pictured on his book cover) to giving details on preparing the first-ever state dinner of the Obama administration.

    "You're going to have a great restaurant in your community," Samuelsson said.

    Several of the questions also covered his unorthodox sense of style, on display in the form of a black embroidered vintage Western shirt from Texas combined with a multi-colored tie and pegged red jeans.

    Four of the five courses were inspired by Samuelsson's recipes as presented in his cookbooks Aquavit, The Soul of a New Cuisine and New American Table, and according to Gallivan the preparations took the greater part of three days.

    The first course had a subtle nod to both Gulf coast and Houston's traditional Vietnamese cuisine, featuring a feather-light spring roll in which the wrapper was a soft, pliable sliver of green apple and the filling featured a deeply rich shrimp mayonnaise accent by a spicy shrimp consomme on the plate as well as some potato salad. It was extremely satisfying, especially when paired with a ginger mule granita cocktail made by Pass & Provisions beverage director Fred Jones, fresh back to Houston from a stint working in New York.

    The second dish of the afternoon was the one that changed all my definitions of mind-blowing cuisine. Led by an egg sublimely poached in an Ethiopian doro wett chicken stew and topped with berbere spices, it also featured a terrine of foie gras, a bit of lettuce, some (fennel?) flowers, popcorn and a couple pickled grapes that added a bright bitterness to contrast the sweet umami flavor of the yolk and the fois on top of a thin berbere broth.

    This was a bite that was so perfect that I've struggled to find words to convey its depth and perfectly balanced complexity, the kind of dish in which each bite must be carefully constructed and savored slowly.

    A toasted seashell caraway pasta from a forthcoming (in 2014) Provisions cookbook made up the third course. Thick and slightly chewy, it was bathed in a light, slightly fishy creme fraiche sauce with juicy bits of salmon roe, grassy dill leaves and a pink onion corkscrew. It was hearty without being heavy with a dose of bright yet creamy flavor.

    The fourth course was arguably as incredible as the second. (I'm arguing with myself on the subject right now.) A coconut milk-steamed square of veal wrapped in fresh bok choy shared the stage with a triangle of fried sweetbreads over a thick coconut milk cream with tiny slices of orange and grapefruit. The richness of the veal and the sweetbreads mixed with a saucy sweetness, marked citrus tones as well as just a hint of bitterness from the bok choy — another dish that seemed to hit every note just right.

    Dessert was comparatively simple and yet still intriguing — a curry peach cake with an ice cream center and a cascade of mini cubes of watermelon and berries.

    It's somewhat fitting that Hofheinz House is so frequently the site of wedding celebrations. The meal felt like an inspiring marriage between Samuelsson's influence and Pass & Provisions signature style, as well as a celebration of a new beginning in the Houston food scene.

    "You're going to have a great restaurant in your community," Samuelsson said, but really the food did all the talking for them.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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    and the nominees are...

    12 Houston restaurants score James Beard Award semifinalist nominations

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 21, 2026 | 9:58 am
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    Houston is well represented on the list of semifinalists for the 2026 James Beard Awards. Overall, Houston received eight nominations in national categories and four nominations for Best Chef: Texas.

    The national nominees are:

    • Outstanding Restaurateur: Hugo Ortega and Tracy Vaught, H-Town Restaurant Group
    • Outstanding Chef: Manabu Horiuchi, Katami
    • Emerging Chef: Max Lappé and Jacques Varon, Baso
    • Emerging Chef: Adrian Torres, Maximo
    • Best New Restaurant: Agnes and Sherman
    • Best New Bar: Lee's
    • Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service: June Rodil, March
    • Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service: Kristine Nguyen, Bludorn

    Houston's Best Chef: Texas nominees:

    • Ope Amosu, ChòpnBlọk
    • Kent Domas and Seth Siegel-Gardner, Milton's
    • Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu, JŪN
    • Shawn Gawle, Camaraderie

    Considered the Oscars of the food world, the awards recognize excellence by chefs and other culinary professionals in a wide range of categories ranging from Outstanding Chef to Best New Restaurant. The James Beard Foundation added three new categories last year to recognize the beverage side of hospitality: Best New Bar. Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service, and Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service.

    Elsewhere in Texas, Dallas boasts eight nominees, San Antonio has seven, and Austin received nine. Notably, only two of last year’s Best Chef: Texas finalists — Emil Oliva and Michael Serva — return as semifinalists for 2026, which means Houston’s Emmanuel Chavez of Michelin-starred Tatemó is off the list after being named a finalist in 2024 and 2025. Amosu and Jūn chefs Garcia and Lu were also semifinalists in 2025.

    Houston is looking to build on last year’s victory by Thomas Bille of Belly of the Beast in Spring, who became the city’s second Best Chef: Texas winner, joining Benchawan Jabthong Painter of Street to Kitchen. Houston’s other regional chef award winners include Robert Del Grande (Cafe Annie), Chris Shepherd (Underbelly), Justin Yu (Oxheart), and Hugo Ortega (Hugo’s). Houston cocktail bar Julep won the award for Outstanding Bar Program in 2022.

    “We are thrilled to congratulate this year’s semifinalists as we mark another major milestone — 40 years of the James Beard Foundation,” said Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard Foundation. “For four decades, the Foundation has recognized culinary excellence while championing the independent chefs and restaurants that are vital to our communities, economy, and culture. It is an honor to celebrate the 2026 semifinalists, whose work reflects the incredible dynamism, talent, and achievement defining our industry today.”

    Finalists for the Restaurant and Chef Awards will be announced on March 31. Nominees for the Foundation’s Media Awards will be announced on May 6. The Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony will be held at the Lyric Opera of Chicago on June 15.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Tracy Vaught and Hugo Ortega, seen here with their daughter Sophia, are James Beard semifinalists.

    news-you-can-eatawardsjames beard awards
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