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    Foodie News

    A meal that will change your life? New restaurant teases with Marcus Samuelssonassist

    Sarah Rufca
    Jul 25, 2012 | 3:28 pm
    • The doro wett poached egg with foie gras
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Marcus Samuelsson (and his much commented-on attire) took questions from dinersbetween courses.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Seth Siegel-Gardner shares a hug with Underbelly chef/owner Chris Shepherd atthe conclusion of the lunch. Shepherd and Philip Speer of Uchi were a couplelocal heavyweights who lent a hand in the kitchen.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Toasted caraway pasta with roe, creme friache and dill
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The Yes, Chef menu
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Curry peach cake and ice cream with watermelon and berries
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Pass and Provision's Terrence Gallivan lends a hand with the wine pairings.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • A Vietnamese-influenced shrimphead spring roll with an apple wrapper
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Sweet breads and veal wrapped in bok choy with grapefruit and orange.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca

    "I'm expecting this lunch to change my life," said the girl next to me as we sat down at the "Yes, Chef" lunch, held at Hofheinz House.

    Normally expectations like that would border on insane, but when you're talking about a menu created by internationally renowned chef Marcus Samuelsson and soon-to-open Pass & Provisions restaurant founders Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner (who trained in New York under Samuelsson at August and Aquavit, respectively), anything is possible.

    Siegel-Gardner and Gallivan left the kitchen rarely, but Samuelsson was front and center throughout the three-hour luncheon, signing copies of his memior, Yes, Chef, beforehand, mingling with diners and answering questions from the audience between courses, from what spice he would be (berbere, the one pictured on his book cover) to giving details on preparing the first-ever state dinner of the Obama administration.

    "You're going to have a great restaurant in your community," Samuelsson said.

    Several of the questions also covered his unorthodox sense of style, on display in the form of a black embroidered vintage Western shirt from Texas combined with a multi-colored tie and pegged red jeans.

    Four of the five courses were inspired by Samuelsson's recipes as presented in his cookbooks Aquavit, The Soul of a New Cuisine and New American Table, and according to Gallivan the preparations took the greater part of three days.

    The first course had a subtle nod to both Gulf coast and Houston's traditional Vietnamese cuisine, featuring a feather-light spring roll in which the wrapper was a soft, pliable sliver of green apple and the filling featured a deeply rich shrimp mayonnaise accent by a spicy shrimp consomme on the plate as well as some potato salad. It was extremely satisfying, especially when paired with a ginger mule granita cocktail made by Pass & Provisions beverage director Fred Jones, fresh back to Houston from a stint working in New York.

    The second dish of the afternoon was the one that changed all my definitions of mind-blowing cuisine. Led by an egg sublimely poached in an Ethiopian doro wett chicken stew and topped with berbere spices, it also featured a terrine of foie gras, a bit of lettuce, some (fennel?) flowers, popcorn and a couple pickled grapes that added a bright bitterness to contrast the sweet umami flavor of the yolk and the fois on top of a thin berbere broth.

    This was a bite that was so perfect that I've struggled to find words to convey its depth and perfectly balanced complexity, the kind of dish in which each bite must be carefully constructed and savored slowly.

    A toasted seashell caraway pasta from a forthcoming (in 2014) Provisions cookbook made up the third course. Thick and slightly chewy, it was bathed in a light, slightly fishy creme fraiche sauce with juicy bits of salmon roe, grassy dill leaves and a pink onion corkscrew. It was hearty without being heavy with a dose of bright yet creamy flavor.

    The fourth course was arguably as incredible as the second. (I'm arguing with myself on the subject right now.) A coconut milk-steamed square of veal wrapped in fresh bok choy shared the stage with a triangle of fried sweetbreads over a thick coconut milk cream with tiny slices of orange and grapefruit. The richness of the veal and the sweetbreads mixed with a saucy sweetness, marked citrus tones as well as just a hint of bitterness from the bok choy — another dish that seemed to hit every note just right.

    Dessert was comparatively simple and yet still intriguing — a curry peach cake with an ice cream center and a cascade of mini cubes of watermelon and berries.

    It's somewhat fitting that Hofheinz House is so frequently the site of wedding celebrations. The meal felt like an inspiring marriage between Samuelsson's influence and Pass & Provisions signature style, as well as a celebration of a new beginning in the Houston food scene.

    "You're going to have a great restaurant in your community," Samuelsson said, but really the food did all the talking for them.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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