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What's Eric Eating Episode 154

Getting frank with Brennan's crew, plus fresh Italian fare in Montrose

CultureMap Staff
Jul 23, 2020 | 4:12 pm
Brennan’s of Houston
This week the podcast features Brennan's of Houston.
Photo courtesy of Brennan’s of Houston

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Brennan's of Houston proprietor Alex Brennan-Martin and wine guy Marcus Gausepohl join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss the iconic Houston restaurant. Brennan-Martin begins by explaining how a planned six-month stay to help his family manage its Houston property led to him becoming a permanent Houstonian, while Gausepohl describes how his initial interest in wine became a career.

Brennan's has taken a number of steps to pivot in response to the challenges posed by the coronavirus pandemic, including selling heat-and-serve meals at H-E-B and allowing customers to purchase wines from its cellar. The restaurant has long been a favorite for Houstonians celebrating special occasions; while big groups may not be possible currently, Brennan-Martin says he's heard from a number of people who have helped keep their spirits high.

Sandler asks the proprietor how he feels about the state of the restaurant industry, and Brennan-Martin provides a very candid response.

We've just got to get to the other side, and I can tell you things are going to look a helluva lot different on the other side. The country, heck, I guess the world, certainly Houston is going to lose a lot of good restaurants and a lot of good jobs. Not only in the restaurants themselves; I'm scared to death for our supply chain...I'm really worried about our entire supply chain, the guys who grow our blueberries, the things that make our food taste a little bit different because they don't come in the back of an 18-wheeler . . . I think there's going to be a reset of more than in the pipeline that the end customers see as the restaurant. It's going to be big.

Prior to the interview, Lennie Ambrose, chief marketing officer for Saint Arnold Brewing Company, joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: TABC's recent decision that forced breweries like Saint Arnold to close their restaurants, the initial list of participants in Houston Restaurant Weeks, and Homestead, a new, breakfast-oriented spot coming to The Heights.

In the restaurants of the week segment, Ambrose raves about recent meals at Les Ba'get, and Sandler shares some first impressions of Fiori, a new Italian restaurant that recently opened in Montrose.

---

Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

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forme fitting

Beard-recognized Houston chef serves up fresh concept in Midtown high-rise

Eric Sandler
Jun 26, 2026 | 4:00 pm
The Branch restaurant Forme high-rise
Courtesy of Lucille's Hospitality Group
Lucille's Hospitality Group is now operating The Branch.

One of Houston’s most acclaimed hospitality groups has opened a new wellness-focused concept in a Midtown high-rise. The Branch is the latest concept from Lucille’s Hospitality Group.

Located on the 12th floor of the Forme, a luxury high-rise at 5501 La Branch, The Branch will serve a seasonal menu that includes a raw bar, daily crudo specials, oysters, caviar, and charcuterie. Those dishes can be paired with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic cocktails.

Currently, the restaurant is open to both residents and members of the general public for dinner Thursday-Saturday and during the day on Sunday. Daily breakfast, lunch, and dinner service will be added over time.

Founded by James Beard Award finalist Chris Williams, Lucille’s Hospitality Group is known for its Southern-inspired Museum District restaurant Lucille’s and Late August, its Midtown establishment that earned both a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide and a Best New Restaurant award from Esquire for its blend of Afro-Caribbean and Mexican flavors. Lucille’s 1913, the group’s nonprofit, operates farms that provide access to fresh food in underserved areas.

"We're incredibly excited to partner with The Forme, because this is about much more than opening a new hospitality venue, it's about helping build a community," Williams said in a statement. "The Branch allows us to bring together thoughtful food, wellness-inspired hospitality, art and community in one space. Launching the partnership through a fundraiser that leaves a lasting impact on Houston makes this collaboration even more meaningful."

The Forme is a 33-story high-rise that’s focused on wellness, productivity, and community. In addition to The Branch, its amenities include a 20,000-square-foot fitness and recovery area, a 9,000-square-foot outdoor pool deck with pool and expansive hot tub, and 20,000 square feet of flexible coworking space.

The Branch will celebrate its opening on July 4 with Liberty and Lux, a fundraiser that will support efforts to paint murals on the Forme’s parking garage honoring America’s 250th anniversary. Tickets, $150, includes an open bar, passed hors d'oeuvres, and an expansive view of area fireworks displays from the building’s 12th floor pool deck.

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