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    Sneak Peek at Helen

    Sneak peek: New taverna brings taste of Greece — and lots of Greek wine — to Houston

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 20, 2015 | 11:39 am

    For sommelier Evan Turner, the stakes couldn't be higher. If Helen Greek Food & Wine — Turner's eagerly anticipated restaurant that's set to open Wednesday (July 22) in the space formerly occupied by Kahn's Deli — doesn't find favors with diners, he has a drastic Plan B.

    "This is it. We may open other ones or versions thereof, but this is it. Or I’m going to pitch myself off a bridge pretty much or move back to Greece or something," he says.

    "I wanted to open up a small, chef-driven, Greek restaurant that cooks Greek regional cuisine."

    For five years, Turner has skipped from restaurant to restaurant— a list that includes Branch Water Tavern, Flora and Muse, Vallone's and Table — while he looked for the right opportunity to bring Helen to fruition.

    "I know that I basically committed career suicide in the last five years bouncing around, trying to do stuff to pay the rent, doing whatever, because I really wanted to do this," Turner says. "I wanted to do this. I had to do this. There was no other way for me. You could have walked up to me and said, ‘Here’s $10 million dollars. We want you to run a steakhouse and the wine program.’ I would have said no thanks. I wanted to open up a small, chef-driven, Greek restaurant that cooks Greek regional cuisine."

    Intimate setting

    The long, narrow space in Rice Village, which is currently undergoing a transformation under the direction of Houston designer Erin Hicks (Brooklyn Athletic Club, El Big Bad), reminds Turner of the restaurants he worked at in New York's East Village. It also serves as the sort of intimate setting Turner has experienced during his time in Greece.

    "I wanted to be some place that sort of felt like people could come and feel like it was an actual taverna . . . When you walk around here, you feel that. When I saw the space for the first time, I knew right away," he says.

    "I wanted to be some place that sort of felt like people could come and feel like it was an actual taverna . . . When I saw the space for the first time, I knew right away."

    To bring his dream to reality, Turner found a business partner in Sharif Al-Amin, the front-of-house veteran whose most recent posts were at Prohibition Supperclub & Bar and Radio Milano, and chef William Wright, who Turner met during his time at Table. Wright doesn't have any experience cooking Greek food, but Turner is confident the chef is up to the challenge.

    "He’s incredibly talented, incredibly gifted, incredibly well-trained and has probably the greatest intellectual curiosity about food I’ve ever seen," Turner says. "He started doing some investigation himself and fell in love with it like I fell in love with it."

    Together, Wright and Turner have crafted a menu that blends Texas ingredients with Greek preparations. While Helen will serve a few Greek classics like gyros, the restaurant intends to highlight lesser known regional dishes.

    Rather than attempt to create what he calls "Greeklish" names for those less familiar dishes, the menu will simply list the ingredients and how they're prepared. For example, Helen's classic Greek salad blends local heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers and onions with Greek feta and olive oil. Similarly, stewed rabbit comes on a bed of orzo pasta and is topped with Myzithra cheese, which Turner describes as a sheep's milk cheese similar to Pecorino Romano. Snapper gets classic Greek touches of fennel and grape sauce but comes with preserved Meyer lemon and local peas.

    All Greek All the Time

    In contrast to the food, Helen's wine list will be "all Greek all the time." At 120 bottles, Turner thinks the only restaurant in America with more Greek wines available will be Molyvos in New York City. He cites a nikteri from Santorini, so named for the way its grapes are harvested at night, as one example of a Greek wine that's never been available in Houston before. Naturally, it provides a pleasant contrast to the rabbit's rich sauce.

    The wines embody Greek traditions, but classic dishes like the gyro have been given a bit of a twist.

    The wines embody Greek traditions, but classic dishes like the gyro have been given a bit of a twist. Turner explains that in Thessaloniki, the region in Greece that created the gyro, the dish is made with thinly-sliced pork shoulder that's seasoned with paprika instead of the beef and lamb mixture that's found at every Greek diner in America.

    "We’ll be doing them with pork," Turner explains. "We’ll probably also make souvlaki sandwiches, which will obviously be either lamb or chicken. Both (the American and Greek gyros) are delicious, but we wanted to do the classic, traditional version."

    Similarly, brunch at Helen will be an eclectic affair. Greek cuisine includes a variety of egg dishes, cured meats and fish preparations that Turner thinks will make for delightful Sunday sustenance, but he recognizes the menu will also have to accommodate the Houston brunch palate.

    "We’ll probably take some spins on things like Eggs Benedict that will be easy for folks to get their heads around. We’ll have some breakfast-slash-lunch items that are used in Greece that we’ll rotate into brunch. But there will be bacon have no fear," he promises.

    What's for dessert

    Dessert offers another opportunity for Helen to blend Texas and Greece. Rather than make a traditional baklava with pistachios, Wright has used Texas pecans. In a bit of a wink, the restaurant will serve the dessert as an ice cream sundae in a paper cup that's common at Greek diners on the East Coast.

    "That way it’s to-go if you want to walk around the Village and enjoy a sundae," Turner explains. Of course, he's aware that diners have lots of choices for ice cream in the area.

    "We’re planning on taking on the Baskin Robbins and Cloud 10 around the corner. We’re coming for you, baby. We’re coming for you," Turner says, laughing.

    Even if Cloud 10 pastry mastermind Chris Leung probably isn't shaking in his clogs at the prospect of Helen poaching his ice cream business, diners should be quivering with anticipation at the chance to check out the newcomer. After all, no one wants to be responsible for Turner throwing himself off that bridge.

    Snapper with fennel, peas and peserved Meyer lemon.

    Helen Greek Rice Village
      
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Snapper with fennel, peas and peserved Meyer lemon.
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    Where to Eat Brunch Now

    10 Houston restaurants spicing up brunch with fresh new flavors

    Brianna Griff
    May 16, 2025 | 10:14 am
    Smoked Salmon Latke Kirsten Gilliam Okto Brunch
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    Okto's newly launched brunch features fresh dishes like this smoked salmon latke.

    Houston’s weekend routine just got a jolt of new flavors. From a Peruvian-Vietnamese mash-up to a Mediterranean feast in Montrose and a seafood-driven spread in Autry Park, a wave of both new and established Houston restaurants are rolling out fresh takes on everyone's favorite weekend indulgence. Whether it’s four riffs on eggs Benedict or savoring a foie-gras macaron while being serenaded by a violin, these 10 new options are delivering bold brunches with global influences and tipsy tinctures.

    Alora Restaurant and Bar
    Located in the former Kau Ba space in Montrose, this restaurant touts itself as Houston's only Peruvian-Vietnamese restaurant. For brunch, chefs and married couple Diego Ponce and Makala Ponce have created a menu that fuses the two cuisines — think Lima Hot Chicken and Pandan French Toast ($19) with aji limo pepper balanced by the sweetness of pandan. The Bò Né ($28) is a Vietnamese twist on steak and eggs alongside Comté cheese, pate, and tomatoes, while the salmon on crispy toast ($22) is crowned with guacamole, pickled vegetables, and a passion fruit vinaigrette. Beverages include the Alora Bloody Mary ($15) with pickled quail eggs and green mango. Alora serves brunch 11 am-3 pm on weekends.

    Smoked Salmon Latke Kirsten Gilliam Okto Brunch
      

    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

    Okto's newly launched brunch features fresh dishes like this smoked salmon latke.

    Chardon
    The Thompson Hotel's fine dining restaurant launched in February, transporting both guests and diners to France with its fare. Chardon has become a destination in its own right, and the addition of weekend brunch makes it even more appealing. Classics like Quiche Lorraine ($18) and Croque Monsieur ($32) sit on the menu alongside creations of delicate Lox et Crêpe with dill crème fraîche ($26) and the Avocado and Haricot Vert Tartine topped with a jammy soft-boiled egg ($17). The Bisous Tower ($23/person) proffers a selection of savory pastries and small bites like foie gras macarons and Texas cornbread madeleines. A violinist sets a soft soundtrack while patrons dine. Brunch is 11 am–3 pm on weekends.

    il Bracco
    The Galleria-area Italian spot just upgraded its weekend offerings with several new bites. Housemade pastries include zeppole with orange marmalade ($10), blueberry focaccia ($9), and an artichoke and arugula scone ($12). The weekend-only bucatini carbonara is now joined by shakshuka alla verde, the restaurant's riffs on eggs in purgatory ($19); frittata with with asparagus, goat cheese, tomatoes, and arugula ($17); and a mortadela sandwich on focaccia ($16). Pair them with a mimosa, espresso martini, or a breakfast martini with a little orange marmalade. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    Maximo
    The West U. restaurant's weekend brunch offers a range of masa-based dishes. Consider egg Benedict that swaps the traditional English muffin for masa cornbread or cinnamon-sugar coated masa waffles that are topped with cheesecake whipped cream, Japanese peanuts, and agave syrup. Huevos ahogados, drowned in green tomatillo salsa, are served with a side of corn tortillas to soak up every bite of the mushrooms, greens, and Oaxacan cheese. Pair them with cocktails such as the Java-Horchata Flip (sake, coffee liqueur, horchata, whole egg, peanut chili crisp) and the Sangria Tango (tomatillo, cucumber, coriander, green chili, with the guest’s choice of agave or Mexican gin). Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    Melrose
    Created by CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Chef of the Year Emmanuel Chavez, the Montrose lounge serves clever riffs on enduring brunch favorites. Options include charred tomatillo chilaquiles with poached eggs, an acai bowl served in a half coconut, hanger steak with eggs and chimichurri, and a breakfast sandwich made with scrambled eggs, cheese, and brown sugar-roasted “billionaire’s bacon” on a brioche bun. The Melrose Tower channels New York's iconic Sadelle's restaurant with its house-cured lox, mini bagels, chive cream cheese, and accoutrements. Drink options include a spritz, Bloody Mary, and a michelada verde made with tomatillo juice. Brunch is served on Sunday from 11 am-3 pm.

    MF Lobster and Seafood
    The weekend spread at this Autry Park destination aims to elevate Houston’s brunch offerings. Think Benedicts made with silky hollandaise cascading over lobster, braised bacon, pork belly, or classic Canadian bacon (yes, that’s four varieties of the dish). The indulgence continues with wagyu steak and eggs, buttery Maine lobster popovers, and bagels and lox featuring Ora King salmon and roe. For the sweet tooth, choose a brioche pain perdu with caramelized apples and whipped maple mascarpone, or end the meal with a dark chocolate pot de crème. MF Lobster and Seafood serves brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 11 am-2:30 pm.

    Okto
    Sof Hospitality’s Mediterranean restaurant kicks off Sunday with a late-morning feast of fresh flavors such as pan con tomate salad with grilled sourdough and bruleed burrata ($20) and the rich notes of the beet-cured lox atop a potato apple latke ($22). Other highlights include an omelet with blue crab and mascarpone ($24) and a crepe Suzette ($16) accentuated with Grand Marnier, candied orange, and whipped ricotta. Okto’s spot at the trendy Montrose Collective boasts a spacious patio and ample underground parking (or valet). Brunch is served Sunday from 11 am-4 pm at Okto.

    Relish Restaurant and Bar
    The second outpost of this River Oaks staple opened in Memorial’s Town and Country Village at the end of 2024, but only added brunch to its repertoire at the end of April. Flaky herb biscuits ($9), buttermilk pancakes topped with brandied pecans ($15), and a salmon citrus salad with champagne vinaigrette ($24) are just a few of the dishes available. The Italian baked eggs ($18) in a pomodoro sauce with Italian sausage and grilled sourdough is a highlight of the menu. Diners can take advantage of all-day happy hour deals on select cocktails, beer, and wine, with a full espresso bar for those abstaining or still recovering from the previous night’s festivities. Relish serves brunch from 10 am-3 pm on weekends.

    Santé Lounge
    The Upper Kirby lounge’s patio is sure to be a destination for the posh set this summer. Santé's Sunday Funday Brunch features an elevated twist on classics like Dubai chocolate croissants, the grilled-to-order Santé burger with brioche, and a platter laden with five chilled seafood preparations. Patrons can listen as a live DJ spins tunes while relaxing on the patio with its cabanas, chandeliers, and greenery. Order the deviled egg trio (Nashville hot chicken, Tobiko caviar, and ramen egg) and sangria (with white or red wine) for the table. Brunch at Santé is from 12 pm-4 pm on Sunday, with a required dress code.

    Traveler’s Cart
    The Street Market Brunch is an international affair with cinnamon-dusted Morning Churros ($8), Chinese breakfast dumplings ($12) paired with a sambal-oyster-soy sauce, and charming fish-shaped Japanese taiyaki waffles ($9) with yuzu custard filling. Or dig into Turkish cilibir eggs ($15) seasoned with Aleppo pepper, smoked paprika, and za’atar oil. The global tour continues at the bar with "around-the-world" mimosas, a build-your-own Bloody Mary cart, and Don’t Stop the Carnival ($13), a punchy Brazilian coffee cocktail of rum, sweetened condensed milk, and toasted coconut. Traveler’s Cart serves brunch from 10 am-3 pm on Saturday and Sunday.

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