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    Salsa in the kitchen

    A food photo blitz: Latin Women's Initiative on the flashy road to two-languagecookbook success

    Shelby Hodge
    Jul 7, 2010 | 3:01 pm
    • Food stylists Julie Hettinger, left, and Laura Cordera work with renowned foodphotographer Ignacio Urquiza of Mexico City.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • Roni Atnipp, from left, Heather Simpson, Patty Dominguez and Mary Tere Perusquiaare forces behind the Spanish/English cookbook.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • The pork roast is cooked in a cloak of rock salt before being shredded for aphotograph.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • Ignacio Urquiza photographed more than 80 dishes in 10 days of intense shooting.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • The cookbook stalwarts gather in Mary Tere Perusquia's kitchen between shoots.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge

    The hustle and bustle in Mary Tere Perusquia's kitchen had been churning for almost 10 days as internationally renowned food photographer Ignacio Urquiza toiled away photographing what seemed like an endless parade of enticing Latin dishes.

    It was the final hours of an extensive photo shoot for the Latin Women's Initiative upcoming cookbook, Latin Flavors: A Taste of Our Heritage. The spacious kitchen and breakfast room in Perusquia's Tanglewood home and even the four-car garage were filled with the aromas of various dishes ranging from tinga pork to Mexican chocolate cake.

    "Taste this, taste this," was the chorus from Heather Simpson, Roni Atnipp, Patty Dominguez and Perusquia, the ring leaders in an 18-month effort that culminates in publication of the bilingual cookbook in October. In early summer, they were still trying to narrow the selection of recipes to 150 from the remaining 165 that had all passed muster.

    LWI sent out the call for recipes more than a year ago and the result was a treasure trove of unique, old family favorites. Mothers and grandmothers of LWI members contributed as did the members themselves. Recipes from Cuba, Argentina, Spain, Colombia, Mexico and Venezuela are in the mix that have been tested five to six times in both Spanish and English versions. Polvorones (Andalusian shortbread cookies), poblano souffle, gazpacho, shrimp in escabeche — the offerings are taste bud tempting.

    When the hardcover book goes on sale for $39.99 just in time for holiday giving, it will be unique due to the bilingual aspect done on such a sophisticated scale combined with its charity angle. Proceeds benefit LWI programs. Sponsors such as H-E-B, which provided the invaluable seed money for the project, are helping cover production expenses.

    Atnipp is the experienced hand behind the project. She oversaw development of the Junior League's award-winning Stop and Smell the Rosemary cookbook, of Luby's commemorative Recipes & Remembrance and of Andrea White's Passionate Supporter. Talented Houston designer Linda Limb is on board to create the pages that are surely to entice thanks to Urquiza's beautiful photographs.

    Herewith, one of the recipes from Latin Flavors.

    Shrimp in Escabeche

    Serves 12, advanced preparation required

    1 ½ cups apple cider vinegar
    1 garlic head, cloves peeled and whole
    3 medium white onions, thinly sliced
    20 whole black peppercorns
    6 carrots, thinly sliced in 1/8-inch rounds
    1 teaspoon ground black pepper
    1 cup olive oil
    Salt to taste
    1 small can (7 ounces) jalapeños en escabeche (pickled jalapeños)
    2/3 tablespoon ground Mexican oregano
    2 bay leaves
    2 limes, thinly sliced
    4 pounds medium shrimp

    In a large saucepan, boil vinegar, garlic, onion and peppercorns until onion is translucent. Add carrots, pepper, olive oil and salt, and simmer five minutes longer. Remove from heat and add jalapeños, oregano, bay leaves and lime slices. Marinate overnight.

    Boil shrimp then peel, devein and refrigerate. Once cold, add to the marinade and mix well. Check seasoning and serve as an appetizer.

    Tip: Successful boiled shrimp is easy if you bring a large amount of water to a rolling boil and add ½ to ¾ pound of shrimp at a time, removing them with a slotted spoon immediately after they begin to float and turn pink. Repeat in batches until all shrimp are cooked. This technique prevents the shrimp at the bottom of the pot from getting overcooked.

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    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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