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    Salsa in the kitchen

    A food photo blitz: Latin Women's Initiative on the flashy road to two-languagecookbook success

    Shelby Hodge
    Jul 7, 2010 | 3:01 pm
    • Food stylists Julie Hettinger, left, and Laura Cordera work with renowned foodphotographer Ignacio Urquiza of Mexico City.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • Roni Atnipp, from left, Heather Simpson, Patty Dominguez and Mary Tere Perusquiaare forces behind the Spanish/English cookbook.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • The pork roast is cooked in a cloak of rock salt before being shredded for aphotograph.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • Ignacio Urquiza photographed more than 80 dishes in 10 days of intense shooting.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • The cookbook stalwarts gather in Mary Tere Perusquia's kitchen between shoots.
      Photo by Shelby Hodge

    The hustle and bustle in Mary Tere Perusquia's kitchen had been churning for almost 10 days as internationally renowned food photographer Ignacio Urquiza toiled away photographing what seemed like an endless parade of enticing Latin dishes.

    It was the final hours of an extensive photo shoot for the Latin Women's Initiative upcoming cookbook, Latin Flavors: A Taste of Our Heritage. The spacious kitchen and breakfast room in Perusquia's Tanglewood home and even the four-car garage were filled with the aromas of various dishes ranging from tinga pork to Mexican chocolate cake.

    "Taste this, taste this," was the chorus from Heather Simpson, Roni Atnipp, Patty Dominguez and Perusquia, the ring leaders in an 18-month effort that culminates in publication of the bilingual cookbook in October. In early summer, they were still trying to narrow the selection of recipes to 150 from the remaining 165 that had all passed muster.

    LWI sent out the call for recipes more than a year ago and the result was a treasure trove of unique, old family favorites. Mothers and grandmothers of LWI members contributed as did the members themselves. Recipes from Cuba, Argentina, Spain, Colombia, Mexico and Venezuela are in the mix that have been tested five to six times in both Spanish and English versions. Polvorones (Andalusian shortbread cookies), poblano souffle, gazpacho, shrimp in escabeche — the offerings are taste bud tempting.

    When the hardcover book goes on sale for $39.99 just in time for holiday giving, it will be unique due to the bilingual aspect done on such a sophisticated scale combined with its charity angle. Proceeds benefit LWI programs. Sponsors such as H-E-B, which provided the invaluable seed money for the project, are helping cover production expenses.

    Atnipp is the experienced hand behind the project. She oversaw development of the Junior League's award-winning Stop and Smell the Rosemary cookbook, of Luby's commemorative Recipes & Remembrance and of Andrea White's Passionate Supporter. Talented Houston designer Linda Limb is on board to create the pages that are surely to entice thanks to Urquiza's beautiful photographs.

    Herewith, one of the recipes from Latin Flavors.

    Shrimp in Escabeche

    Serves 12, advanced preparation required

    1 ½ cups apple cider vinegar
    1 garlic head, cloves peeled and whole
    3 medium white onions, thinly sliced
    20 whole black peppercorns
    6 carrots, thinly sliced in 1/8-inch rounds
    1 teaspoon ground black pepper
    1 cup olive oil
    Salt to taste
    1 small can (7 ounces) jalapeños en escabeche (pickled jalapeños)
    2/3 tablespoon ground Mexican oregano
    2 bay leaves
    2 limes, thinly sliced
    4 pounds medium shrimp

    In a large saucepan, boil vinegar, garlic, onion and peppercorns until onion is translucent. Add carrots, pepper, olive oil and salt, and simmer five minutes longer. Remove from heat and add jalapeños, oregano, bay leaves and lime slices. Marinate overnight.

    Boil shrimp then peel, devein and refrigerate. Once cold, add to the marinade and mix well. Check seasoning and serve as an appetizer.

    Tip: Successful boiled shrimp is easy if you bring a large amount of water to a rolling boil and add ½ to ¾ pound of shrimp at a time, removing them with a slotted spoon immediately after they begin to float and turn pink. Repeat in batches until all shrimp are cooked. This technique prevents the shrimp at the bottom of the pot from getting overcooked.

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    Roll With It

    9 Houston restaurants luring diners with fluffy, buttery dinner rolls

    Brianna McClane
    Apr 30, 2026 | 10:30 am
    The Green Room dinner rolls
    Photo by Bear Media Co
    At the Green Room, diners can opt for a side of caviar to elevate the dinner rolls.

    Dinner rolls are having a moment in Houston.

    Perhaps it's because comfort food is necessary when life can feel so chaotic, or that ordering a basket of rolls for the table is more financially approachable than, say, a seafood tower — whatever the reason, rolls are back on the menu at some of the city's most exciting restaurants.

    At Latuli, the Memorial restaurant by chef Bryan Caswell and Allison Knight, the bread service consists of house yeast rolls with jalapeño and roasted poblano jelly, alongside a gruyère corn bread with whipped sorghum butter.

    “It’s our No. 1 seller every day, which is surprising given all the gluten-free diets and GLP-1 trends right now—it’s almost like its power is trend-immune,” Caswell tells CultureMap.

    The same is true at Fielding’s Steak, where the restaurant’s in-house bakery delivers brioche dinner rolls served with cultured butter, honey, and sea salt from Galveston.

    “Guests have always loved fresh-baked bread, even during the time when it was frowned upon,” CEO Cary Attar says.

    Dustin Teague, executive chef and co-owner of Relish Restaurant & Bar, recalls when free bread service was a constant on tables around town throughout the majority of his industry experience.

    “That was back in the good old days when rent, insurance, labor, and cost of goods were at reasonable numbers,” Teague says. “Now we don’t have any room for anything free but we still want to have it available for guests.”

    The Parker House rolls at Relish are accompanied by compound butters, with the current creation featuring a garlic confit, fresh herbs, and red pepper flakes.

    “Serving bread signifies welcoming guests into a home or establishment, hence the term ‘breaking bread.’ So it’s a must for any upscale dining experience,” Teague says.

    The cowboy butter rolls at western-themed restaurant Long Weekend are a no-brainer pairing on a menu with hearty fare like hickory-smoked quail and a 24-ounce porterhouse. It’s also an easy order for the family-focused restaurant that is likely to have tiny, pickier eaters as patrons.

    "We took a Texas staple and elevated it with duck fat, our house sourdough starter, and locally sourced Kelley’s Honey,” executive chef German Mosquera says.

    At Star Rover, every entree is served with a basket of milk rolls, along with salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want to participate in the “I Ate the 76'er” challenge have to consume a 76-ounce steak and the sides — yes, including rolls — in under an hour.

    “They are your fairly standard buttermilk yeast rolls,” executive chef Bobby Matos says. “We serve them because they’re delicious and a bit of a nod to Texas Roadhouse and that kind of vibe.”

    Speaking of Texas Roadhouse, the chain restaurant's complimentary rolls helped propel its rise to America's highest-grossing casual dining restaurant. The fluffy buns are baked every five minutes, enticing diners with shiny butter-basted tops and cinnamon butter that's made in house.

    The dinner rolls at surf-and-turf destination Truluck’s emerge from the kitchen as pull-aparts — brushed with butter and finished with a hefty dusting of parmesan.

    The dinner rolls at The Green Room undergo an overnight bulk fermentation process. The next day, the dough is rolled and portioned by hand before resting and proofing at room temperature for four hours, then slid into the oven.

    The newly opened 26-seat restaurant adds daily butters to the experience, with both a sorghum-and-sea salt butter, and a charred scallion butter currently in rotation. To make the dish even more luxurious, diners can add a caviar supplement to the bread service.

    Chef and owner Shawn Gawle offers another elevated version of the dinner roll at Camaraderie. Here, the 2026 James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas has put his pastry expertise on display with pain au lait, which involves laminating together a regular Japanese milk bread with a purple sweet potato variation into a delicate, colorful roll.

    “We wanted something where we could show value, substance and technique, but it also completes the meal,” Gawle says. “To share a meal with warm bread and butter is a universal, comforting experience.”

    The Green Room dinner rolls

    Photo by Bear Media Co

    At the Green Room, diners can opt for a side of caviar to elevate the dinner rolls.

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