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    Foodie News

    Cooking controversy: Vegan-beloved chef is moving into a big restaurant space and dropping the vegan-only menu

    Joel Luks
    Jul 1, 2013 | 2:01 pm

    When Staci Davis opened Radical Eats two years ago, it wasn't an overnight success. The vegan-only restaurant housed in a humble — call it charmingly cozy and grungy — one-story building on Fulton between Calvacade and Moody Park contemplated closing on slower days, doing away with the less-than-popular lunch service and reevaluating menu options weeks after launch.

    Winds started to change for the chef, rendering the Mexican-inspired restaurant a destination for all types of diners. Davis' success lies in cooking up dishes that are mainstays at conventional eateries — only hers were vegan. Tacos, enchiladas, chiles rellenos and fried jalapenos are translated into vegan variants using ingredients like creamy almond sauce, dairy-free cream cheese alongside plenty of vegetables.

    The fried avocado tacos with gluten-free tortillas are a sought-after specialty. On Sundays, the all-you-can-eat brunch buffet that offers pancakes, tofu migas and tamales sells out quickly, particularly on holiday weekends.

    And now Radical Eats is growing up, moving on and grooming itself. Davis is uprooting her operations to take over the space formerly occupied by the recently shuttered Roots Bistro, located at 507 Westheimer Rd. The restaurateur is collaborating with Roots Bistro owner/partner Ash Shah and general manager Kenneth Choate to bring a version of the radical concept to a major restaurant packed neighborhood.

    "It's a piece of shit but I love it. But I can't sit around and wait for the fate of my restaurant to be decided by others."

    The move is necessary, Davis tells CultureMap.

    "The roof leaks — it rains actually — there's no insulation and the electrical system is in dire need of repair," Davis says of her current location. "Imagine in this weather, what it feels like in the kitchen.

    "We are working in horrible conditions, and I want to provide a safe and healthy working environment for my employees."

    Davis says the future of the structure she's leaving, owned by Felix Morales, could be in jeopardy, and that it's at risk of foreclosure in the next coming months. She's inquired about purchasing the building, but the lien holder hasn't been able to provide much information on the proceedings.

    "It's a piece of shit but I love it," Davis jokes. "But I can't sit around and wait for the fate of my restaurant to be decided by others. I have to do something."

    Davis hopes to quietly open the Westheimer location in the middle of July for breakfast only, but not before making decor changes that nod to the essence of Radical Eats. She wants to hold onto the accessible, fun and casual ambiance of her former home, and not concede to the more posh feel just because it's on Westheimer.

    A Cursed Restaurant Locale?

    Some say that this Westheimer spot is cursed, though. 507 Westheimer has seen its own share of drama amid a myriad of tenants changing concepts, moving in — and moving out.

    Eighteen months after Café Moustache opened as a rebranded version of So Vino, it closed its doors. Roots Bistro established vegetable-friendly operations with vegan chef German Mosquera (he's now at Restaurant Cinq at La Colombe d'Or) and his departure raised eyebrows about management practices when BRC chef Chandler Rothbard replaced Mosquera's signature style and made it his own.

    The kitchen was overshadowed in March when controversial signs used domestic violence jokes in an attempt to sell beer, drawing attention from international media outlets. Roots Juice ceased service abruptly when general manager Becki O'Brien said her farewells.

    Davis should prepare for drama of her own as well.

    Radical Eats will be less reformist and more conformist with a menu that includes free-range local meats, dairy and eggs — a decision that surely will infuriate hardcore veganistas. Just ask Whole Foods Market Montrose officials what transpired when salmon appeared on a spread during an in-store appearance by Engine 2 Diet's author Rip Esselstyn. Davis has already garnered harsh criticism for her decision.

    "I am not vegan, but I am very accommodating to the vegan community," Davis tells CultureMap. "The animal proteins I will use will be from local farmers I know well. I will never source anything from a factory farm.

    "For me, it's about being environmentally conscious."

    Radical Eats' current location on Fulton between Calvacade and Moody Park.

    News_Radical Eats
    Photo by Joel Luks
    Radical Eats' current location on Fulton between Calvacade and Moody Park.
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    meet the tastemakers

    These 10 restaurants and pop-ups serve Houston's best sandwiches

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 9, 2026 | 4:54 pm
    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

    Surely one of the most tired debates in Houston food is whether or not the city has good sandwiches. Usually, these complaints come from East Coast transplants who are disappointed by the lack of cold cut, Italian deli-style sandwiches.

    Allow us to illustrate the point with this year’s wildcard category in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, Best Sandwich.

    The nominees in this category demonstrate that Houston restaurants produce an endless array of banh mi, tortas, po’ boys, wraps, and, yes, one of the premier Jewish delis anywhere in the country. In addition to the old school favorites, a new crop of sandwich-obsessed pop-ups are raising the game.

    Who will win? Find out at our Tastemaker Awards ceremony April 16 at Silver Street Studios. Dine on bites from this year’s nominees, sip cocktails from our sponsors, and witness as we reveal the winners. Buy your tickets now. A limited number of Early Bird General Admission tickets remain. VIP tickets offer early entry, valet parking, and more perks. All tickets will sell out before the event, so don't wait.

    B'Tween Sandwich Co.
    After a lengthy stint as Greg Gatlin’s right hand at Gatlin’s BBQ and Gatlin’s Fins & Feathers, Wallace went out on her own with this sandwich pop-up. In addition to her familiar biscuit sandwiches, Wallace has been collaborating with other restaurants, creating a Cajun fish sandwich at fellow nominee Stuffed Belly and a butter chicken sandwich at Tastemaker Awards winner Burger Bodega. Discover Wallace’s latest creations every first and third Sunday of the month at the Rice Village farmers market.

    Bayou Butchers
    At this pop-up, chef Garrett Rice showcases his knowledge of meat. He dry ages ribeyes for Bayou Butchers’ signature Philly cheesesteak and makes his own pistachio-studden mortadella. Recently, he collaborated with chef Gabe Medina on a Spam sandwich that sold out quickly.

    Cali Sandwich & Pho
    For more than 30 years, this Midtown restaurant has been serving classic Vietnamese fare to Houstonians who appreciate a good deal on a tasty meal. The signature barbecue pork banh mi is always popular, as are the shredded chicken and steamed BBQ pork. While the days of $2 sandwiches may be over, Cali still offers a very satisfying lunch that only costs about $5.

    Craft Pita
    Diners may think of this Lebanese restaurant as primarily a bowl concept, but chef-owner Raffi Nasr knows a thing or two about sandwiches. Last year, he jumped on the viral chicken Caesar wrap with his own spin that used Craft Pita’s rotisserie chicken and its garlicky toum. More recently, he s introduced a crispy shawarma with a griddled pita and chicken skin for extra crunch.

    Kenny & Ziggy's
    Houstonians of all creeds flock to this Jewish deli for sandwiches that range from classics — such as corned beef and pastrami that are cured and smoked in-house — to more over-the-top creations like the Luck Be a Latke (brisket served between two potato pancakes) and the mammoth Zellagabetsky, an eight-layer, $116 sandwich that will best even the heartiest appetites. K&Z’s hot sandwiches, including an open-faced turkey with gravy, a Philly cheesesteak, and a classic French dip, are similarly can’t-miss.

    Local Foods
    With five Houston-area locations and two Austin outposts, this restaurant is among Houston’s most successful sandwich purveyors. Standouts include the “Crunchy” Chicken with its nut crumble and buttermilk ranch; the Gulf Seafood with its mixture of shrimp and crab that’s kicked up with green goddess dressing; and the Truffled Egg on a chewy pretzel bun. Vegetable sides sourced from area farms ensure the restaurant lives up to its name.

    Stuffed Belly
    Masterchef winner and James Beard Award finalist Christine Ha shares her love of sandwiches at this fast casual spot in Spring Branch. While Ha has built her reputation by making Vietnamese dishes, Stuffed Belly leans more traditionally American with options such as a patty melt, tuna salad, egg salad, and a grilled cheese. Specials, like this month’s Fish N Chips that gets added crunch from crushed kettle chips, ensure regulars always have something new to try.

    Thien An Sandwiches
    Like Cali Sandwich, this restaurant has built a devoted following for its affordable banh mi. The restaurant serves all the usual fillings, with the dac biet combo with pate among the standouts. Save room for the signature banh xeo, a crispy rice crepe stuffed with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts.

    Winnie's
    This Midtown bar and restaurant would have earned a nomination solely for its definitive shrimp po’ boy, an overstuffed sandwich on bread from New Orleans’ iconic Leidenheimer Baking Company. Of course, the restaurant goes far beyond that with essentials like the Fried Chicken Crunch Wrap Supreme (made with Cool Ranch Doritos, of course) and weekly specials from the ever-restless mind of co-owner Graham Laborde. Top tier cocktails and some of Houston’s best wings only enhance Winnie’s appeal.

    Yuma
    This pop-up, which will soon open its first brick-and-mortar location on Washington Avenue, has built its reputation by blending Cuban and Brazilian flavors. Its menu includes a classic Cuban sandwich, the Sampa Gallo chicken sandwich, and the A Caipira, a Brazilian take on a cheesesteak. Yuma also creates sandwiches inspired by other cultures, such as the Vietnamese-style El Penny Cubano Banh Mi — made with mojo pork and ham that’s topped with Gruyere, garlic aioli, pate, pickled carrots, daikon, cilantro, and jalapeno.

    ----

    The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is sponsored in Houston by Maker's Mark, Culinary Khancepts, NTX LVL Event, Shutto and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke

    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

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