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    Remembering Miss Ella

    Houston chefs share memories of legendary New Orleans restaurateur Ella Brennan

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 1, 2018 | 10:35 am
    Ella Brennan Commander's Palace
    Ella Brennan passed away on May 31.
    Courtesy photo

    The culinary world is mourning the loss of Ella Brennan. The legendary restaurateur behind iconic New Orleans restaurant Commander's Palace passed away May 31 at the age of 92, the New Orleans Times Picayune reports.

    Brennan leaves behind a towering legacy. As noted in the documentary about her life, Ella Brennan: Commanding the Table, she played a key role in helping evolve American food culture to where it is today. She championed chefs like Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse, emphasized the use of local ingredients, and always made sure diners' needs were met. The film also explains all of the obstacles Brennan overcame on her path to success, including being fired. In 2016, Brennan's daughter Ti Martin, the current proprietor of Commander's, told CultureMap that her mother's attitude towards work may be her greatest legacy.

    “You can work extremely hard and not miss a minute of fun,” Martin said. “If you make it part of your life, you can really do that.”

    Brennan's family founded legendary Houston restaurant Brennan's of Houston where her son Alex Brennan-Martin remains the proprietor. In tribute to her, the restaurant's sign went dark on the night of May 31.

    Brennan's has served as an important training ground for dozens of Houston chefs. CultureMap contacted several of them for any anecdotes or memories they cared to share about Miss Ella. These are their stories.

    Carl Walker is the general manager of Brennan's of Houston. He worked previously as a chef at Commander's Palace and as the executive chef at Brennan's of Houston.

    I remember one time I made this fantastic peach ice cream. She tried it and she goes, doesn’t taste enough like peaches. I went back to the drawing board. When you take Miss Ella something to try and tell her it tastes like something, it better taste like that thing. It’s gotta have pow, as she used to say.

    Even this week I used her for an example. [She used to say that] it’s not about how well the dish sold that night; it’s whether people are coming back to order it again. What I learned from her is, are you going to come back and have this dish again? Then you have a dish. That’s something she did that pushed us to give it our best.

    She was a person who was focused on customers and what they enjoyed and whether they’re coming back. That’s the thing. That’s who she was.

    Danny Trace, the executive chef of downtown restaurants Potente and Osso & Kristalla, worked at Commander's Palace prior to spending almost 10 years as the executive chef at Brennan's of Houston.

    Many of my days were spent at the Commander's chef table and/or her living room, which is in her house a short walk through the courtyard located next to Commander's. In her presence the world seemed to stop and our conversations were the type that there could be a Mardi Gras parade running right behind us, but all I could hear was her voice. Thank you, Ella Brennan, for 'creolizing' so many of us.

    Mark Holley is the former chef-owner of Holley's restaurant. He worked as a chef at both Commander's Palace and Brennan's of Houston.

    Ella always took time out to spend with me during my tenure at Commander's Palace. She encouraged me to be a good leader, to stay current and creative, and to become a role model to others working in the kitchen with me. Ella had a lot of cookbooks and she taught me to use cookbooks as a tool to further my culinary education. She believed if I could take away one great idea from a cookbook then it was worth the purchase.

    To date, I own over 500 cookbooks, and it has become a hobby and a lifestyle for me. I credit that to my success as a self-taught chef. She was a great force in the industry, and I will miss her.

    Lance Fegen, culinary director and executive chef of the F.E.E.D. TX restaurant group, worked at Brennan's from 1991 to 1993.

    When I was a grill cook at Brennan’s, the atmosphere in the kitchen was often tense and volatile—as you would expect when you’re cooking for a thousand people. On one busy day, Ella Brennan peeked her head into the kitchen and said to me, ‘just make sure you take care of our customers.’ She taught me exactly that—that hospitality is about the customers. It’s not about the cooks or the food.

    She brought a clear, distinct passion to Brennan’s. The energy in the room changed when she walked in and she passed that on to Alex. Through them, I learned the importance of being caring and loving as a restaurant owner.

    Chris Shepherd is the chef-owner of Underbelly Hospitality. He worked as a chef and sommelier at Brennan's of Houston.

    I spent nine years with the family. I see why people are there 40 years, 50 years. Hell, Marcelino has been a captain there since 1967. That’s a long fucking time, because there’s a belief. Jose Arevalo, 30-something years. Carl [Walker], the same. It’s a family.

    That’s something I always take with me. At the end of the day, we’re family. I get a lot of my philosophies from that. It’s amazing when someone can reach out and touch an industry. It’s not just who she was but what she did. That’s special . . . She’s what you want to be when you grow up.

    Graham Laborde is the director of operations for Killen's Restaurants. He worked briefly as a cook at Commander's Palace.

    She was the utmost proponent of etiquette and manners. She used to say we were ladies and gentlemen feeding ladies and gentlemen.

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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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