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    Foodie News

    First look: Coastal Mexican cantina with two-story patio set to replace landmark Montrose gay bar

    Eric Sandler
    May 20, 2015 | 3:00 pm

    Just as Memorial Day marks the unofficial start of summer, it also looks to be kicking off the summer restaurant and bar opening season. Several long-awaited projects look poised to open the doors in the coming weeks.

    That starts Tuesday (May 26) when La Grange will join the already-announced B&B Butchers and Restaurant in making its public debut. As CultureMap first reported in March, La Grange is a coastal Mexican cantina from the same partners who own Cottonwood and Liberty Station that's taken over the space previously occupied by iconic gay bar E.J.'s.

    "A lot of what’s in here is the existing building, just kind of stripped down. Slapped a few coats of paints on the walls," Rainey says.

    Chief operating officer Jake Rainey tells CultureMap that partner Harres Exezidis has made relatively few structural changes as part of the remodeling process. "A lot of what’s in here is the existing building, just kind of stripped down. Slapped a few coats of paints on the walls," Rainey says.

    Instead, partners Rob and Sara Cromie decorated the interior with items they discovered during trips to Mexico. Rainey cites tin lamps with burlap sacks as one of his favorite details.

    "At night it’s going to have this kind of wavy, shadowy effect on the walls that I think will be pretty cool," he says. The space features handmade metal work for tables, lighting fixtures and sliding glass windows that run the length of the main dining room and look out onto La Grange's internal courtyard.

    Interior patio charm

    The two-story, interior patio gives La Grange much of its charm. It features a koi pond, games like darts and foosball, and a second story that provides views along lower Westheimer and a glimpse of the downtown skyline. Upstairs also features "Red's Bar," a second-story space that's named after a long time E.J.'s bartender and dancer which can be used for either private parties or as overflow seating during busy nights. Rainey says he's considering adding a humidor to Red's and making the second story cigar-friendly.

    Rainey says he's considering adding a humidor to Red's and making the second story cigar-friendly.

    Turning to the food and drinks, Chef Daniel Ajtai's menu was still under development in March, but it's ready to go now. Whereas Cottonwood's menu is built around its burgers, La Grange has a definite seafood focus — although burgers are still available. Asked about whether La Grange represents a step up on the culinary Ajtai responds:

    "Cottonwood is a modern ice house. We didn’t want to go too crazy with the cuisine over there. We wanted it where everyone was comfortable with the menu. Over here, coastal cantina. Give Jake and I a beautiful place to try to turn it up a little more. It’s a little more ambitious, but not far from what we were knocking out over at Cottonwood."

    Ajtai sounds particularly excited about his smoked tomato campechana. "Instead of using ketchup, we make our own smoky tomato reduction (and then add) octopus, scallops, shrimp and crab meat. The smoked tomatoes bring out the sweetness in the seafood. It’s a good rollercoaster of flavors" he says.

    Other dishes include barbecue oysters, mini shrimp tamales and stacked enchiladas with choice of filling.

    Cocktail ready

    Bar manager Linda Salinas brings her experiences from places like Anvil and The Pastry War to La Grange's cocktail menu. Rainey predicts the watermelon fresca, made with blanco tequila aperol and watermelon juice, will be a big hit. In keeping with the Mexican theme, La Grange will serve both red and green micheladas.

    "We'll have a ton of Texas craft, but if there's a good beer from Belgium, that's not going to keep us from putting it on the wall."

    Rainey also expects the bar's frozen cocktails to be popular. That starts with a margarita, obviously, but will also include frozen horchata and other options. "We’re going to have a lot of different things rotating through there, but we’re going to take it seriously. It's going to be a full program," Rainey says.

    Given Rainey's history with The Flying Saucer and the offerings at both Cottonwood and Liberty Station, it comes as no surprise that craft beer will round out the beverage options. The space features a total of 20 taps divided between an internal bar, a courtyard bar and Red's; while they'll initially mimic each other, Rainey says they'll eventually all feature different brews. Rounding out the options will be 30 bottles and cans, but they won't be exclusively Texas craft.

    "Good beer is good beer," Rainey says. "We'll have a ton of Texas craft, but if there's a good beer from Belgium, that's not going to keep us from putting it on the wall."

    Between the food, drinks and overall atmosphere, La Grange looks poised to be Montrose's new patio hotspot. One other element that should ensure its success — a substantial parking lot.

    The dining room at the new La Grange features handmade metal work.

    La Grange Montrose
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    The dining room at the new La Grange features handmade metal work.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    drew be goode

    New pitmaster brings top 50 cred to historic Houston barbecue joint

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 21, 2026 | 10:30 am
    Goode Co Barbecue Drew Lindsey pitmaster
    Photo by Brian Kennedy
    Drew Lindsey is Goode Co.'s new multi-unit pitmaster.

    One of Houston’s oldest barbecue joints has brought in fresh talent to oversee its operations. Drew Lindsey is the new Multi-Unit Pitmaster for Goode Co. Barbeque.

    Lindsey brings an impressive resume to his role. His career began at the Austin location of Michelin-recommended Terry Black’s Barbecue and also includes stops at Hurtado Barbecue (Arlington) and Dayne’s Craft Barbecue, the Fort Worth-area restaurant ranked No. 7 on Texas Monthly’s 2025 list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. Now, he’s responsible for ensuring consistency across Goode Co. Barbecue’s three locations and developing new menu items.

    Still, Lindsey’s role isn’t to rock the boat. Instead, he tells CultureMap he’s simply looking to refine what the restaurant has been doing since 1977.

    “I was drawn to Goode Co because of its rich history, the deep roots that Jim Goode planted in the Houston area back in 1977,” Lindsey says. “Being able to contribute to that legacy while continuing to grow as a pitmaster and leader was an opportunity that really stood out for me. It’s about projecting the craft and developing people, making sure that no matter which location a guest visits they receive the great quality barbecue that Goode Co. represents.”

    He notes that one way Goode Co.’s brisket is different from places he’s worked previously is its seasonings, which adds a few more ingredients to the familiar mix of salt and pepper that’s the standard in Central Texas-style barbecue.

    “The way that I would describe it is Southeast Texas barbecue with a little bit of Texicana, like Mexico-style barbecue.” Later, he adds, “I like that there’s a little more flavor in the rub itself for brisket.”

    Another of Lindsey’s roles is developing new menu items and tweaking some of the restaurant’s existing dishes. For example, Goode Co.’s pork ribs are now finished with an agave glaze.

    “One thing I’ve been working on a is a tequila-lime glaze pork belly burnt end,” he says. “They’re seasoned with black pepper and Mexican seasoned salt then dunked into a tequila lime glaze — nice, thick, one inch cube of pork belly.”

    Diners will find these and other items on a bi-weekly features menu that’s served every Thursday through Sunday. Available from open until sold out, the current menu includes pulled pork, jalapeno-cheddar sausage link, and green chile pimento cheese dip with Ritz firecrackers.

    Lindsey says he’s still getting to know Houston’s barbecue scene. So far, he’s tried Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue in Tomball and Truth BBQ, but he has plans to sample more broadly.

    “Khoi Barbecue is one I want to try. I love the fusion of Asian cuisine with Central Texas-style barbecue,” he says.

    Goode Co Barbecue Drew Lindsey pitmaster

    Photo by Brian Kennedy

    Drew Lindsey is Goode Co.'s new multi-unit pitmaster.

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