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    First Taste

    The most underrated restaurant in Houston? The new Hawthorn dazzles in old"members-only" spot

    Sarah Rufca
    May 8, 2012 | 11:38 am
    • Hawthorn
      Photo by Morris Malakoff/Flickr
    • Chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio
      Photo by Morris Malakoff/Flickr
    • The food at Hawthorn is beyond lovely.
      Photo by Morris Malakoff/Flickr
    • Cory Graff
      Photo by Morris Malakoff/Flickr
    • Hawthorn
      Photo by Morris Malakoff
    • Photo by Morris Malakoff/Flickr

    That Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio is not a big name in the Houston restaurant scene is evidence that life is not fair. Like Ryan Hildebrand and Bryan Caswell, he's an alum of the Culinary Institute of America, and he's helmed the kitchens at Simposio and his own brief, underappreciated Sabetta before landing first at members-only club Dorsia and now at the reconfigured restaurant concept in the same space, Hawthorn.

    Hawthorn is on a busy stretch of Kirby, just south of West Ave and north of the famed funeral bar row, yet it's virtually hidden from the street in the back of a multi-space building that includes Café Express and The Owl bar. Those who never made it to Dorsia might remember it as the original home of Dessert Gallery.

    Palazzo-Giorgio makes virtually everything in house, from the pasta to the cheese to the gelato. It's nothing short of lovely.

    The dining room is intimate but refined, with wood paneling that feels stately but not heavy, plus a large bar and a grand piano in the entry way. Styled like a modern supper club, it functions somewhat like the larger Capitol at St. Germain downtown.

    Palazzo-Giorgio makes virtually everything in house, from the pasta to the cheese to the gelato. It's nothing short of lovely. I started with the gnocchi, which was beautifully light and pillowy, drenched in a rich gorgonzola cream sauce. A signature rose-colored ravioli felt a bit too dense, made with beet-infused pasta stuffed with ricotta and topped with chive and a light citrus glaze. An ultra-thin beef carpaccio got a modern update with the addition of lemon, giving the classic Italian dish a nice kick of acid.

    A filet of beef over gruyere potatoes and jus was cooked beautifully, with a hint of char around the edges and a bright pink center, so tender I'm struggling to avoid "melts in your mouth" clichés. The asparagus served alongside were perfectly soft and green, so much that I felt compelled to ask Palazzo-Giorgio how he makes them. (He says the secret is olive oil and ultra-fresh produce.)

    A jumbo lump crab cake had barely enough breading to hold the cake together. Served with a tomato-butter sauce and microgreens, the flavor was really all about the rich, slightly sweet crab. The indulgently rich risotto that I remember from Sabetta also makes an appearance here, with flavors that change weekly. Ending with a tart ricotta cheese cake and a rich, oozing apple crostata topped with a light dollop of vanilla gelato, I felt more than satisfied.

    By chance my dinner at Hawthorn was the night before I attended the Houston pop-up dinner by famed New York restaurant Le Cirque. Both concepts stick to a classic American menu dotted with Italian/Mediterranean influence, and though Palazzo-Giorgio had the advantage of a familiar kitchen and a smaller crowd (the restaurant was open for dinner but my table was the only one occupied), I was still surprised by how thoroughly the experience at Hawthorn trumped the famous name.

    I guess fame isn't everything. Hawthorn may not have a big name, but it has pretty much everything else going for it.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
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