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    The CultureMap Interview

    Move over, Alton Brown: Bryan Caswell debuts as Food Network host on Best inSmoke

    Sarah Rufca
    Apr 14, 2011 | 10:21 am

    All the fans who rooted for Bryan Caswell on The Next Iron Chef are in luck. The popular Houston chef behind Reef, Stella Sola and El Real Tex-Mex is heading to the small screen once again — this time as the host of a new barbecue competition show on Food Network called Best in Smoke.

    Filmed last fall, the show premieres on May 8, and Bryan Caswell gives CultureMap a run-down of what to expect.

    CultureMap: How was the television experience different being a host rather than a contestant?

    Bryan Caswell: It was completely different ... there's much more of a focus from camera standpoint. You're paid to do job and be a mediator, try to get into character — well not a character, per say, but it's a completely different thing. They're waiting on you to not fumble your lines. But coming from Next Iron Chef it would have been very hard for me to be hypercritical, having been there a couple months before that in the same position.

    CM: Tell me more about what to expect on the show?

    BC: The premise is great, it's an interesting idea. It's a little different because of the contestants, only a couple had restaurants, the rest work professionally in the barbecue circuit, which is something only a very small percentage of population is familiar with. It's a lifestyle, they travel and cook competitively.

    The most interesting thing is how they got to do their own rig and each one is totally different, with different types of machinery. Barbecue is a simple thing, it's time and temperature, some sort of meat, some sort of spice, and yet it's so easy to mess it up.

    We filmed in Liberty State Park (in New Jersey) just on the other side of the river from Battery Park, so there's different challenges in the city that are fun as well as some crazy weather.

    CM: What's your barbecue background? Do you have a preference for Texas-style or did you have to put that aside?

    BC: I mean, I'm from Texas, and I've been barbecuing all my life. I think what's interesting about barbecue is you have the seven distinct styles from all over the country and you don't really see Texas barbecue outside of Texas, or South Carolina outside of South Carolina, unless you go to New York City and open a place with five different styles, and that's not really how it's done.

    The first time I had a pulled pork sandwich in Little Rock I was like, "Holy shit! This is barbecue." That's what's interesting, it's a food that's automatically going to draw out food memories and the experiences are completely different.

    CM: What other judges were you working with? Did you get a vote?

    BC: Tim Love knows barbecue, being from Fort Worth, he's very opinionated. I learned a lot from Amy Mills, who comes from Kansas City, her dad is a barbecue legend. Amy would say something like "This is exactly what competition barbecue is supposed to be," and I would think "I don't want to go to a competition then." Mitchell Davis, who's the vice president of the James Beard Foundation and comes from Manhattan, he was kind of a wild card because he just likes what he likes.

    As for me I tasted and commented, but I didn't have a vote, similar to Alton Brown on Iron Chef.

    CM: How did you get ready to be a host?

    BC: I think they were looking for a normal person to be themselves and show personality. I'm a little nervous because my inner redneck might have come out a little bit. It's such a totally different experience ... it's still amazing to me.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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