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    GoodBye Red Ox

    Longtime Houston restaurateurs call it quits — for now — as Red Ox space goes Italian

    Clifford Pugh
    Apr 6, 2017 | 4:36 pm
    9 Red Ox Bar & Grill May 2014 owners against painted wall
    Lily Hernandez and Terry Flores at the Red Ox Bar & Grill, which will close on April 15.
    Photo by Eric Sandler

    After two decades in the Houston restaurant business, Terry Flores and Lily Hernandez are calling it quits — for now.

    The duo, who originally met as students at the University of St. Thomas and later became business partners, are closing the Red Ox Bar & Grill, the near Northside restaurant they opened three years ago in the neighborhood where Flores grew up. The restaurant, which specializes in grilled fajitas, killer margaritas, chips and homemade salsa, and a popular weekly steak night, will close at the end of business on April 15.

    They had previously owned Bocados, a Montrose favorite, from 1997 until 2013. At the Red Ox, they continued some of Bocados' most popular entrees, including fajitas, chicken empanadas, and chicken flautas, with a new menu of burgers, salads, and seafood items. And they always went from table to table, greeting guests and making the restaurant feel like it was their home.

    "It's time to take a break," said Flores, who plans to travel quite a bit over the next few months. "We're excited because it's a new chapter."

    The Red Ox space, located on Collingsworth near the METRORail Red Line, has been leased to restaurateur Leo Coronel, who owns the Italian Cafe in Spring. He said he had been scouting for a second location in the Heights/Northside area when he came across the Red Ox. "I've been looking for a while and loved the location and the neighborhood and what they had done with (the space)," he told CultureMap.

    The new restaurant will be called Rocco's and will offer pizza, pasta, and salads in a wine bar atmosphere, Coronel said. He hopes to have it open by late May.

    Flores said she and Hernandez had planned to exit the restaurant business after they leased the Bocados space to The Brick and Spoon, a Lafayette, Louisiana, restaurant that was new to the Houston market. (That venture was short lived and now Good Dog Houston occupies the space on West Alabama; Flores and Hernandez sold the building to a realty company.) But the opportunity to open another restaurant in Flores' old neighborhood proved too hard to resist.

    They renovated the former space, commissioning a colorful mural depicting Houston landmarks by artist Wiley Robertson, added reclaimed wood walls and a corrugated wrapped metal bar recycled from Flores' garage, custom table tops recycled from bowling alley flooring, and a modern glass garage door that opens to the patio on cool days.

    In addition to owning the Red Ox building, Flores and Hernandez also own the property that houses D&T Drive Inn, which they have leased to Treadsack for its craft beer bar, so they will still be tangentially involved in the Houston restaurant scene. And though Flores says she's looking forward to a new life, she won't totally discount a return to the business one day.

    "I'm not going to say, never ever. We might get an itch and come back," Flores said. "But I want to enjoy my life right now."

    closings
    news/restaurants-bars

    Best of New BBQ

    Houston snubbed on Southern Living's best new BBQ joints list

    Brianna Caleri
    Sep 22, 2026 | 9:15 am
    Kafi BBQ
    Photo by Kathy Tran
    Kafi BBQs halal Wagyu beef earned it a spot on a prestigious Best Of list.

    Every two years, lifestyle magazine Southern Living picks its best new barbecue joints in the South, and four Texas spots made the 16-spot list, although none are in Houston.

    Three Austin-area joints lead the way: Two Goose Market & Barbecue (No. 2), Churchrow Tejas BBQ (No. 4), and Parish Barbecue (No. 8). Irving's Kafi BBQ, known for its halal Wagyu, ranks No. 7.

    Contributing barbecue editor Robert F. Moss determined Southern Living's rankings and wrote a paragraph introducing each spot. Even though Southern Living represents the entire South, Moss pointed out in his introduction that Texas-style barbecue is "blurring" the lines between other regional styles.

    "These days, offset smokers have become standard equipment at new restaurants in Florida, Georgia, and the Carolinas," wrote Moss. "Slow-smoked brisket and house-made sausage links have gone native, appearing side-by-side with chopped pork, mustard or vinegar sauces, and regional specialties like red slaw, Brunswick stew, and hash and rice."

    At Kafi BBQ in Irving, halal Wagyu beef is king. Halal — meaning meat raised and butchered cleanly and humanely, in accordance with Islamic guidelines — is a growing trend in Texas, where at least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats. At Kafi, Moss appreciated touches like pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends, lamb spareribs, and Iraqi spices. "Of equal note are the crisp, thick-cut French fries, which are cooked in beef tallow (Wagyu, of course)," he writes, "and you can finish things off with cardamom-scented banana pudding or the basbousa, a rich rosewater-laced coconut semolina cake."

    At Two Goose Market & Barbecue, Moss specifically praised the breakfast tacos, describing them as "compact bites of soft, pliant flour tortillas bursting with the smoky flavor of brisket (or sausage or bacon) along with eggs, soft home-fried potatoes, and gooey melted Cheddar." He also liked the more traditional side of the menu, and gave credit for departures like a pork belly banh mi and a cheesesteak.

    Another spot that blends Texan and Mexican traditions, Churchrow Tejas BBQ, caught the writer's attention for its expansive menu with "almost too many tempting options." Instead of reviewing any one menu item, he laid out a selection of options, including meat by the pound, smoked mollejas (beef sweetbreads), brisket queso, La Valentina brisket taco, and La Tejanita with chopped chicken thighs and roasted poblano, plus a full bar with local beers.

    Parish Barbecue is the standout in Austin in terms of unexpected flavors, since everything it does is touched by Cajun cooking. Moss especially liked the pulled dug legs, which he recommended pairing with "zippy remoulade-vinegar slaw and herb-laced Creole tomato salad." He also commended the boudin, which comes in rotating flavors.

    Although Moss didn't include any Houston-area spots on the list, the city has seen a couple of high-quality barbecue openings this year that could be eligible for the writer's next roundup. Eastbound Barbecue, a project led by four alumni of Killen's Barbecue, opened in June. Willow's Smokehouse & Tavern, the first solo project from veteran pitmaster Willow Villarreal and his partner Jasmine Barela, recently opened in the East End. The 2024 edition of Moss' list included Houston's Brisket & Rice.

    If Texans are willing to take a trip based on advice from Southern Living, they should head to Elliott’s BBQ Lounge in Florence, South Carolina, which took the No. 1 spot. Pork is a big deal at Elliott's, including a whole-hog barbecue that Moss calls "superlative."

    ----

    Eric Sandler contributed to this article.

    barbecuebestslistsnew restaurantssouthern living
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