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    Houston's Best Barista

    Houston's best barista: Meet the coffee master who is recognized as one of the best in the world

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 23, 2015 | 12:12 pm

    At Montrose coffee shop Blacksmith, John Letoto's title is simply "Coffee." Letoto, the always well-dressed, jack-of-all-trades, contributes to all aspects of the business by being equally adept at roasting coffee beans, preparing coffee drinks and training Blacksmith's top-notch staff to meet his high expectations for customer service.

    In order to afford a trip to Tokyo where he'll compete in the Coffee Fest Latte Art World Championship Open, Letoto will teach a series of classes that cover the fundamentals of four aspects of coffee: Roasting, brewing, espresso and latte art. Each class will be capped at 20 students. Classes cost $45 each, but participants may purchase all four for $135.

    "By no means will you learn everything, but they’re a good foundation to understand how to approach learning more about coffee and those different disciplines," Letoto tells CultureMap. Each of the one-hour classes will blend lecture and a brief, hands-on component.

    Letoto anticipates his students will be a mixture of Blacksmith regulars and those who just want to learn more about coffee. "Maybe an enthusiast who’s been around the block and understands coffee pretty well but wants a little bit of a primer. Maybe someone who has a friend who’s interested in coffee but doesn’t know where to start," he says.

    Letoto says beginners can get started on high quality drip coffee for as little as $200.

    While sourcing an espresso machine capable of making coffee shop quality brew might cost a couple thousand dollars, Letoto says beginners can get started on high quality drip coffee for as little as $200. Surprisingly, Letoto says the most important piece of equipment isn't the coffee machine.

    "A good grinder is always going to be the most important piece of equipment, because, if you can’t grind your coffee evenly, you’re not going to be able to extract it evenly," he notes.

    Although, as Blacksmith barista Mikey Nguyen quickly adds, "it's not about the money. It's about the time. Time is money." Letoto has put in the time, which is why he's both qualified to teach these classes and one of only three Americans heading to Tokyo for the competition. Just look at the ridiculous pours he shares regularly on Instagram.

    Although Letoto regularly competes in latte art competitions both locally and nationally, he earned the coveted slot in the Tokyo bracket with a second-place finish in February at another Coffee Fest event in Atlanta. He's looking forward to the challenge.

    "They are literally the best of the best," Letoto says about his future competitors. "Probably the toughest bracket that will be assembled for latte art competitions. If you’re in the bracket at all, it’s kind of a big deal."

    The competition will be held April 15 through 17. That's when Houstonians will learn whether their instructor is simply the city's most accomplished barista — or a world champion.

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    Chris Shepherd-founded Houston burger joint goes belly up after 4 years

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 9, 2026 | 12:30 pm
    Underbelly Burger burger spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Underbelly Burgers has arrived in Spring Branch.

    A Houston burger joint founded by James Beard Award-winning chef Chris Shepherd will soon serve its final meal. Underbelly Burger will close its Spring Branch location this Sunday, September 13, the restaurant announced.

    “We are incredibly grateful to our guests, our team and everyone who has supported Underbelly Burger and been part of its story over the years,” the statement reads in part.

    Shepherd opened the first location of Underbelly Burger at the Houston Farmers Market in January 2022. Although Shepherd left Underbelly Hospitality in June 2022, Underbelly Burger continued, opening its Spring Branch location in November 2023. The company didn't announce the closure of its Houston Farmers Market location, but it stopped including the restaurant's Airline Dr. address in social media posts earlier this summer.

    True to Shepherd’s ethos of local sourcing, Underbelly Burger used beef from Texas’ 44 Farms or wagyu from R-C Ranch, which is located near Houston in Brazoria County. When it opened its menu also included bacon sausage hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, a veggie burger, and sidewinder fries. Over time, the menu grew to include chicken wings and chicken tenders.

    The closure means that Georgia James, a steakhouse in the Regent Square development, is the only one of Shepherd’s restaurants that remains open. Underbelly Hospitality sold that concept to the owners of Bari Ristorante in the summer of summer 2024. Underbelly Hospitality closed Wild Oats, its Texas comfort food restaurant, in September 2024.

    Since leaving the restaurant business, Shepherd has devoted himself to raising money for the Southern Smoke Foundation, the nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown that provides emergency assistance and mental health services to hospitality workers. He also hosted Eat Like a Local, a show on KPRC, for three years. He writes articles for CultureMap on wine, food, and other related topics.

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