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    Houston's Best Barista

    Houston's best barista: Meet the coffee master who is recognized as one of the best in the world

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 23, 2015 | 12:12 pm

    At Montrose coffee shop Blacksmith, John Letoto's title is simply "Coffee." Letoto, the always well-dressed, jack-of-all-trades, contributes to all aspects of the business by being equally adept at roasting coffee beans, preparing coffee drinks and training Blacksmith's top-notch staff to meet his high expectations for customer service.

    In order to afford a trip to Tokyo where he'll compete in the Coffee Fest Latte Art World Championship Open, Letoto will teach a series of classes that cover the fundamentals of four aspects of coffee: Roasting, brewing, espresso and latte art. Each class will be capped at 20 students. Classes cost $45 each, but participants may purchase all four for $135.

    "By no means will you learn everything, but they’re a good foundation to understand how to approach learning more about coffee and those different disciplines," Letoto tells CultureMap. Each of the one-hour classes will blend lecture and a brief, hands-on component.

    Letoto anticipates his students will be a mixture of Blacksmith regulars and those who just want to learn more about coffee. "Maybe an enthusiast who’s been around the block and understands coffee pretty well but wants a little bit of a primer. Maybe someone who has a friend who’s interested in coffee but doesn’t know where to start," he says.

    Letoto says beginners can get started on high quality drip coffee for as little as $200.

    While sourcing an espresso machine capable of making coffee shop quality brew might cost a couple thousand dollars, Letoto says beginners can get started on high quality drip coffee for as little as $200. Surprisingly, Letoto says the most important piece of equipment isn't the coffee machine.

    "A good grinder is always going to be the most important piece of equipment, because, if you can’t grind your coffee evenly, you’re not going to be able to extract it evenly," he notes.

    Although, as Blacksmith barista Mikey Nguyen quickly adds, "it's not about the money. It's about the time. Time is money." Letoto has put in the time, which is why he's both qualified to teach these classes and one of only three Americans heading to Tokyo for the competition. Just look at the ridiculous pours he shares regularly on Instagram.

    Although Letoto regularly competes in latte art competitions both locally and nationally, he earned the coveted slot in the Tokyo bracket with a second-place finish in February at another Coffee Fest event in Atlanta. He's looking forward to the challenge.

    "They are literally the best of the best," Letoto says about his future competitors. "Probably the toughest bracket that will be assembled for latte art competitions. If you’re in the bracket at all, it’s kind of a big deal."

    The competition will be held April 15 through 17. That's when Houstonians will learn whether their instructor is simply the city's most accomplished barista — or a world champion.

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    riel returns

    Shuttered Houston restaurant revived for 1 night only at Canada Day pop-up

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 19, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    Riel truffle caviar pierogi
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    The pop-up will serve Riel's caviar and truffle pierogi.

    One of the saddest restaurant closures of 2025 will get a one-night-only revival. Favorite dishes from Riel will return at Chardon on Sunday, June 28 for an event being called “Booze Can Sunday.”

    While a French fine dining restaurant might seem like an unlikely host for a Riel revival, Chardon executive chef E.J. Miller once served as Riel’s opening sous chef. Miller invited his former boss, Riel chef-owner Ryan Lachaine, to join him for a pop-up that honors Canada Day.

    Together, the duo will serve some of Riel’s most popular dishes, including:

    • Truffle and Caviar Pierogies
    • Steak Au Poivre Poutine with Cheese Curds
    • Deli Dog
    • Montreal Smoked Meat Sliders
    • Torche Kolaches
    • Mushroom Empanadas
    • Gator Karaage
    • Maple Whiskey Soft Serve with Foie Caram

    The day will also feature drink specials such as Canadian Jell-O Shots, Molson X, Canadian Club, Old Grand-Dad, and more. Robin Wong, a co-owner of Blood Bros. BBQ and a successful DJ, will spin throughout the event.

    Riel truffle caviar pierogi

    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

    The pop-up will serve Riel's caviar and truffle pierogi.

    "Riel was a special place for a lot of people, and Booze Can Sunday was always one of the most anticipated events of the week," said Miller. "Ryan and I wanted to bring back that energy for one day, celebrate the restaurant that meant so much to us, and give guests a chance to revisit some of the dishes and memories they loved."

    Riel Restaurant Ryan Lachaine E.J. Miller A vintage picture of chefs EJ Miller and Ryan Lachaine. Photo by Eric Sandler

    Riel opened in January 2017 and closed in August 2025. In between, it earned wide acclaim for the way Lachaine blended his Canadian upbringing and Ukrainian heritage with the modern Gulf Coast cuisine he learned while working at restaurants such as Reef and Underbelly.

    Currently, Lachaine works as the executive chef at River Oaks restaurant State of Grace. He added two Riel signatures to State of Grace’s menu — the caviar tater tots and signature butter burgers.

    Chardon, which earned a Best New Restaurant nomination in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards for its blend of classic French fare with Texas ingredients, opened in February 2025. In addition to Riel, Miller’s resume includes SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, International Smoke, and Muse.

    Booze Can Sunday takes place from 3-9 pm. Attendees are encouraged to register on Eventbrite.

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