Foodie News
John Tesar tells (almost) all about his exit from the Houston food scene
Fresh off the news that John Tesar has left his namesake Tesar's Modern Steak and Sustainable Seafood in The Woodlands, the chef himself has dished to Dallas blog Side Dish's Nancy Nichols about his return to Big D, the cause of his Tesar's departure (hint: he wasn't fired) and the future of the restaurant bearing his name. Some of the scoop-y highlights:
NN: Are you coming back to Dallas?
JT: I am coming back to Dallas. Currently I have two options. They are two separate entities. I have signed a letter of intent with both .... One is quite elaborate with many concepts. The other one is built around me.
NN: Is Tesar’s going to continue to use your name?
JT: My only involvement now is whether or not they use the name. I’m not totally against it but it is difficult for me since my name is up there and I can’t be in control of quality. My partners and I split with irreconcilable differences. The restaurant is doing well — just not well enough to pay a John Tesar-style chef. I gave them back my 20 percent and we are still wrangling over things like money and the name.
NN: So give me the short version of what happened?
JT: I do not wish ill on my ex-partners. They enticed me to leave New York when I was with David Burke [at Fishtail]. I went into the business with good will. I realized that the project was opening in the middle of a recession and was undercapitalized. We started out with three partners and the two majority partners [Bill and Hilary Burke] pushed out my main contact. But we built this thing and got good reviews. But they had no experience in the restaurant business and we knew it wasn’t going to make enough to pay me, especially since I have a family. (Tesar’s wife is 4½ months pregnant with their first child.)
So Houston is losing another talented — if controversial — chef to the siren song of Dallas. Will you still be dining at Tesar's? Can a good chef make it in the suburbs?