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    Marcus Samuelsson interview

    Celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson reveals why he's filming his PBS show in Houston

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 18, 2019 | 1:17 pm

    Chef Marcus Samuelsson spent this past weekend in Houston filming for his PBS reality series No Passport Required. Slated to air later this year, the episode will focus on Houston’s West African community and its rapidly growing presence on Houston’s culinary scene.

    Houston will be one of six cities featured in season two. The show will also cover Filipino food in Seattle, Italian food in Philadelphia, Armenian food in Los Angeles, Chinese food in Las Vegas, and Brazilian and Portugese food in Boston.

    Samuelsson tells CultureMap that he visited a few spots in Houston to complete his tour, including Safari, the Nigerian restaurant that’s operated in southwest Houston for 30 years. He also dined at The Pass; chef-owners Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan worked for the chef prior to moving to Houston.

    To put a finishing touch on the episode, the show’s producers arranged for a special dinner at Cafeza, the popular cafe in First Ward. Over a meal catered by Chòp n Blọk, the West African-inspired pop up series, Samuelsson led a conversation with a group of people with West African heritage — including Chòp n Blọk founder Ope Amosu, NFL player Fendi Onobun, Aces of Taste founder Ahrif Sarum, and local musician Demola — about the challenges of growing up Nigerian in America, the evolution of Houston’s food scene, Hakeem Olajuwon as a role model, and more. Depending on what makes the final cut, viewers may also catch a glimpse or two of an opinionated food writer.

    After dinner, and a brief performance by Demola, Samuelsson sat down for an interview about the show, his perspective on Houston, and what he thought of the meal he ate that night.

    CultureMap: Why did you decide to come to Houston for an episode of the show?

    Marcus Samuelsson: When we started to think about the show, Houston was always on it, because we wanted to think about cities that are iconic to America for different reasons, and also diversity wasn’t forced. We wanted a place that maybe people would be surprised [by].

    Houston and Vietnamese was always there, but then when we did Vietnamese in Nola, well, can’t do it. Plus, they’re too close to each other, right? We decided to [include Houston in] season two.

    Houston fits on so many different levels. To the world and to America, I don’t think Houston gets enough credit for its diversity. You know it, and you take it for granted. It might not be the first thing people think about Texas. I’m happy that we can show real America this is what it is.

    CM: Where else are you going in Houston?

    MS: What’s exciting about Houston, it will be an incredible program, because it’s not all in four walls restaurants. We’re catching the pop-up scene, someone like Ope. We’re also catching Safari that has been doing it for 30 years.

    It will be all about food, but it won’t be all about restaurants. Because some of those restaurants aren’t here yet. That’s what’s exciting is catching this moment between immigrants who are not going to give up on a dream, ‘I might have a day job, but I’m still finding an audience.’ That’s an American phenomenon to me. I’m not stopping.

    CM: You’ve visited Houston many times because of your relationship with Seth and Terrence. How have you seen it change over the years?

    MS: I think two things have happened. Because of the internet, people can tell stories from their restaurant in real time. Houston has been coming up as a food city for the last four or five years, just because the gatekeepers are less.

    At the same time, the Houston food scene has evolved. Yes, it’s Vietnamese, but it’s a lot of guys like Seth and Terrence. Worked in New York, worked in Chicago, and then specifically wanted to come home.

    You need major chefs to put it on the map, and then you need that underground belly, to realize that they need to cook, and it needs to be really, really good.

    We talked about that before. You need local staples, too. I remember speaking to Monica [Pope] maybe 10 years ago now. We talked about farm-to-table Texas style. What does that mean? Do you have four seasons? I asked very basic questions.

    She told me, you’re not on an East Coast clock. Of course, you’re not. Why should you be? It’s not these four distinct seasons; therefore, you can grow in a different pattern. She’s the one that unpacked that for me. It’s, like, wow.

    CM: What did you think of dinner tonight?

    MS: It was great. Part is the energy. Part is they’re not shying away from ethnic. They’re not putting Sriracha on that. They’re really staying with what it is.

    That crab fritter, I’ve had it 50 times in Africa. It tastes like that. The bun was different. That road snack with the steak; that was exactly the way you’d get it at a bus stop or a train stop in Africa. It’s different kinds of meat — don’t ask what cut — chopped up, with some spice on it.

    I love the fact that they’re not trying to give it to you through this Western lens. This is how uncle and auntie would eat it, here it is. There’s something unapologetic about that. I really love. That’s the way all immigrant cultures should be. We’re here. We welcome you to it. If you don’t get it, it’s on you.

    CM: Do you think he can turn this pop-up into a successful business?

    MS: I would never bet against a young, hard-working kid like Ope. He has a day job, and he’s driving. He’s doing it, he’s connecting with his community. If he only does Nigerian weddings, he has a business right there. But he wants more. I think he’ll do really well with it. Absolutely.

    This is already connecting that first base of, who can do it with me. He’s learning from every pop-up what to do better for next time. That’s also a really good way to open a restaurant, because you get the back and forth. I remember when Seth opened. There were a lot of small dinners he did.

    It happens on every level. I would not bet against Ope.

    ---

    Portions of this interview have been edited for length and clarity.

    Marcus Samuelsson and Chòp n Blọk founder Ope Amosu.

    Marcus Samuelsson No Passport Required Ope Amosu
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Marcus Samuelsson and Chòp n Blọk founder Ope Amosu.
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    Food trends

    Halal BBQ is booming in Texas, with Houston making a major contribution

    Associated Press
    Aug 25, 2026 | 4:30 pm
    Levant BBQ
    Levant BBQ
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    At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant in Fort Worth.

    First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

    “I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

    Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

    The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

    "Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

    A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

    Growing Texas trend
    At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

    At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco that's bringing its menu of smoked beef and lamb to Sugar Land in late 2026 or early 2027. Truboy BBQ, which started as a mail order halal barbecue supplier, opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Missouri City last year.

    Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue draws halal diners. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

    “Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

    Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

    “Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

    Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

    More than salt and pepper
    Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

    Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

    Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

    Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

    Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

    Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

    At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

    “My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

    A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

    He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

    On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

    “That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

    “I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

    Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

    'We love barbecue'
    Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

    “It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

    One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

    After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

    For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

    “No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

    ---

    This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

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