• Home
  • popular
  • EVENTS
  • submit-new-event
  • CHARITY GUIDE
  • Children
  • Education
  • Health
  • Veterans
  • Social Services
  • Arts + Culture
  • Animals
  • LGBTQ
  • New Charity
  • TRENDING NEWS
  • News
  • City Life
  • Entertainment
  • Sports
  • Home + Design
  • Travel
  • Real Estate
  • Restaurants + Bars
  • Arts
  • Society
  • Innovation
  • Fashion + Beauty
  • subscribe
  • about
  • series
  • Embracing Your Inner Cowboy
  • Green Living
  • Summer Fun
  • Real Estate Confidential
  • RX In the City
  • State of the Arts
  • Fall For Fashion
  • Cai's Odyssey
  • Comforts of Home
  • Good Eats
  • Holiday Gift Guide 2010
  • Holiday Gift Guide 2
  • Good Eats 2
  • HMNS Pirates
  • The Future of Houston
  • We Heart Hou 2
  • Music Inspires
  • True Grit
  • Hoops City
  • Green Living 2011
  • Cruizin for a Cure
  • Summer Fun 2011
  • Just Beat It
  • Real Estate 2011
  • Shelby on the Seine
  • Rx in the City 2011
  • Entrepreneur Video Series
  • Going Wild Zoo
  • State of the Arts 2011
  • Fall for Fashion 2011
  • Elaine Turner 2011
  • Comforts of Home 2011
  • King Tut
  • Chevy Girls
  • Good Eats 2011
  • Ready to Jingle
  • Houston at 175
  • The Love Month
  • Clifford on The Catwalk Htx
  • Let's Go Rodeo 2012
  • King's Harbor
  • FotoFest 2012
  • City Centre
  • Hidden Houston
  • Green Living 2012
  • Summer Fun 2012
  • Bookmark
  • 1987: The year that changed Houston
  • Best of Everything 2012
  • Real Estate 2012
  • Rx in the City 2012
  • Lost Pines Road Trip Houston
  • London Dreams
  • State of the Arts 2012
  • HTX Fall For Fashion 2012
  • HTX Good Eats 2012
  • HTX Contemporary Arts 2012
  • HCC 2012
  • Dine to Donate
  • Tasting Room
  • HTX Comforts of Home 2012
  • Charming Charlie
  • Asia Society
  • HTX Ready to Jingle 2012
  • HTX Mistletoe on the go
  • HTX Sun and Ski
  • HTX Cars in Lifestyle
  • HTX New Beginnings
  • HTX Wonderful Weddings
  • HTX Clifford on the Catwalk 2013
  • Zadok Sparkle into Spring
  • HTX Let's Go Rodeo 2013
  • HCC Passion for Fashion
  • BCAF 2013
  • HTX Best of 2013
  • HTX City Centre 2013
  • HTX Real Estate 2013
  • HTX France 2013
  • Driving in Style
  • HTX Island Time
  • HTX Super Season 2013
  • HTX Music Scene 2013
  • HTX Clifford on the Catwalk 2013 2
  • HTX Baker Institute
  • HTX Comforts of Home 2013
  • Mothers Day Gift Guide 2021 Houston
  • Staying Ahead of the Game
  • Wrangler Houston
  • First-time Homebuyers Guide Houston 2021
  • Visit Frisco Houston
  • promoted
  • eventdetail
  • Greystar Novel River Oaks
  • Thirdhome Go Houston
  • Dogfish Head Houston
  • LovBe Houston
  • Claire St Amant podcast Houston
  • The Listing Firm Houston
  • South Padre Houston
  • NextGen Real Estate Houston
  • Pioneer Houston
  • Collaborative for Children
  • Decorum
  • Bold Rock Cider
  • Nasher Houston
  • Houston Tastemaker Awards 2021
  • CityNorth
  • Urban Office
  • Villa Cotton
  • Luck Springs Houston
  • EightyTwo
  • Rectanglo.com
  • Silver Eagle Karbach
  • Mirador Group
  • Nirmanz
  • Bandera Houston
  • Milan Laser
  • Lafayette Travel
  • Highland Park Village Houston
  • Proximo Spirits
  • Douglas Elliman Harris Benson
  • Original ChopShop
  • Bordeaux Houston
  • Strike Marketing
  • Rice Village Gift Guide 2021
  • Downtown District
  • Broadstone Memorial Park
  • Gift Guide
  • Music Lane
  • Blue Circle Foods
  • Houston Tastemaker Awards 2022
  • True Rest
  • Lone Star Sports
  • Silver Eagle Hard Soda
  • Modelo recipes
  • Modelo Fighting Spirit
  • Athletic Brewing
  • Rodeo Houston
  • Silver Eagle Bud Light Next
  • Waco CVB
  • EnerGenie
  • HLSR Wine Committee
  • All Hands
  • El Paso
  • Houston First
  • Visit Lubbock Houston
  • JW Marriott San Antonio
  • Silver Eagle Tupps
  • Space Center Houston
  • Central Market Houston
  • Boulevard Realty
  • Travel Texas Houston
  • Alliantgroup
  • Golf Live
  • DC Partners
  • Under the Influencer
  • Blossom Hotel
  • San Marcos Houston
  • Photo Essay: Holiday Gift Guide 2009
  • We Heart Hou
  • Walker House
  • HTX Good Eats 2013
  • HTX Ready to Jingle 2013
  • HTX Culture Motive
  • HTX Auto Awards
  • HTX Ski Magic
  • HTX Wonderful Weddings 2014
  • HTX Texas Traveler
  • HTX Cifford on the Catwalk 2014
  • HTX United Way 2014
  • HTX Up to Speed
  • HTX Rodeo 2014
  • HTX City Centre 2014
  • HTX Dos Equis
  • HTX Tastemakers 2014
  • HTX Reliant
  • HTX Houston Symphony
  • HTX Trailblazers
  • HTX_RealEstateConfidential_2014
  • HTX_IW_Marks_FashionSeries
  • HTX_Green_Street
  • Dating 101
  • HTX_Clifford_on_the_Catwalk_2014
  • FIVE CultureMap 5th Birthday Bash
  • HTX Clifford on the Catwalk 2014 TEST
  • HTX Texans
  • Bergner and Johnson
  • HTX Good Eats 2014
  • United Way 2014-15_Single Promoted Articles
  • Holiday Pop Up Shop Houston
  • Where to Eat Houston
  • Copious Row Single Promoted Articles
  • HTX Ready to Jingle 2014
  • htx woodford reserve manhattans
  • Zadok Swiss Watches
  • HTX Wonderful Weddings 2015
  • HTX Charity Challenge 2015
  • United Way Helpline Promoted Article
  • Boulevard Realty
  • Fusion Academy Promoted Article
  • Clifford on the Catwalk Fall 2015
  • United Way Book Power Promoted Article
  • Jameson HTX
  • Primavera 2015
  • Promenade Place
  • Hotel Galvez
  • Tremont House
  • HTX Tastemakers 2015
  • HTX Digital Graffiti/Alys Beach
  • MD Anderson Breast Cancer Promoted Article
  • HTX RealEstateConfidential 2015
  • HTX Vargos on the Lake
  • Omni Hotel HTX
  • Undies for Everyone
  • Reliant Bright Ideas Houston
  • 2015 Houston Stylemaker
  • HTX Renewable You
  • Urban Flats Builder
  • Urban Flats Builder
  • HTX New York Fashion Week spring 2016
  • Kyrie Massage
  • Red Bull Flying Bach
  • Hotze Health and Wellness
  • ReadFest 2015
  • Alzheimer's Promoted Article
  • Formula 1 Giveaway
  • Professional Skin Treatments by NuMe Express

    Finn Hall 2.0

    Downtown food hall reboots with 3 tasty new concepts and better values

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 6, 2020 | 10:00 am
    Hunain Dada, Miranda Cartwright David Buehrer Finn Hall
    Hunain Dada, Miranda Cartwight, and David Buehrer have rebooted Finn Hall.
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Finn Hall is getting a reboot. Opened in December 2018, the downtown food hall has new life thanks to a new culinary director, three new tenants, and a new financial model that’s designed to make it more successful for its ten vendors.

    While these changes have boosted Finn’s prospects to achieve the goals that its corporate parents — property management firm Midway and real estate investment firm Lionstone Investments — have for the food hall, one vendor who suffered under the old regime is speaking out about all the original promises that she says weren’t kept.

    Out with the old

    In November, Midway and Lionstone quietly removed Oz Rey, LLC as the food hall’s operator. Both Hunain Dada, Lionstone’s real estate portfolio management director for the property, and Miranda Cartwright, Midway’s senior property, explain that Oz Rey was removed for “non-performing” on its lease obligations. It brought an end to a rocky tenure that saw the departure of Mala Sichuan, one of Houston's most-acclaimed Chinese restaurants. Now, Midway is operating the food hall directly without an extra layer of management that increased operating costs.

    “What we were able to do was take all these third party things that the management company billed to the operators and basically gave them a smaller margin of profit,” Cartwright says. “We were able to give them a larger share of profit and lower costs because we stripped out the middle man.”

    In Oz Rey’s place, they brought in Greenway Coffee owner David Buehrer to serve as Finn Hall’s culinary director. The barista/entrepreneur might seem like an unlikely choice to lead a food hall, but he has a track record linking property managers with future tenants, having helped recruit Feges BBQ, The Rice Box, and burger-chan to join Greenway Plaza. By removing Oz Rey as the middle man between the property and the vendors, Finn was able to reduce the lease rate from 30-percent of gross sales to 20-percent.

    “It’s huge,” Buehrer says. “I think that’s the difference between success and failure in a small business is that 10-percent margin.”

    In with the new

    Armed with better terms and sales data from the food hall’s vendors that allowed him to demonstrate its viability, Buehrer recruited three new concepts to join Finn. They are:

    • Lit Chicken, an African-influenced fried chicken restaurant from former Kitchen 713 chefs James Haywood and Ross Coleman
    • Papalo Taqueria, a Mexican restaurant from chefs Stephanie Velazquez and Nicholas Vera, best known for their Tlahuac pop-up series
    • Pho Binh, a downtown version of chefs Kevin Pham and Di Nguyen’s celebrated Chinatown restaurant Pho Binh by Night

    Lit opened this week. Papalo will follow next week. Pho Binh will open by April 1.

    The new additions represent a serious injection of culinary talent. Buehrer has been advocating for Pho Binh for over 10 years, bringing the restaurant’s original location in south Houston to the attention of critics and diners, who’ve consistently ranked it as one of Houston’s best Vietnamese restaurants. Haywood and Coleman earned a James Beard semifinalist nomination for Kitchen 713. Beyond that, he’s particularly excited about Papalo.

    “That was the best food I had in 2019 was Tlauhac when they were at Greenway,” Buehrer says. “Stephanie, her and Nick worked at Underbelly back in the day. I think they’re going to be James Beard-level quality.”

    Outgoing vendor’s dispute

    To make way for them, Goode Co. Taqueria and Vietnamese restaurant Sit Lo are leaving Finn. Adrienne Le, the owner of Sit Lo, tells CultureMap that she’s upset about the way she’s been treated. Specifically, that Oz Rey kept her $15,000 security deposit after Midway removed the operator from Finn, and that her attempts to contact the former management company have been unsuccessful.

    “Overall, we feel like we weren’t given a chance to be successful. Oz Rey wanted so much, and they disappeared with their money,” Le says. “Now, the rug has been pulled out from under us, and we have to leave in March.”

    Le will move forward with Sit Lo’s second location in Sugar Land, but the loss of $15,000 stings. She notes that Oz Rey never fulfilled other promises it made, such as providing delivery. Since Oz Rey's removal, Finn Hall tenants are allowed to use third-party delivery apps like DoorDash and UberEats.

    “We are continuing to work with them,” Cartwright says about Sit Lo. “We’ve put her in contact with the old management company to try to get their security deposit back. We really feel like it was a hard decision, but we’re super supportive of Sit Lo.”

    Dada notes that Midway and Lionstone did try to mitigate some of the losses that Finn’s vendors suffered during Oz Rey’s tenure by giving them one month of free rent and reducing their rental rates going forward. Shannen Tune, chef-owner of Craft Burger in Finn Hall, says those concessions did help his business.

    “Had they given me two months of free rent, I would have recouped everything,” Tune says. “As far as I’m concerned, they did enough. They didn’t have to do anything.”

    Craft Burger — along with vendors Low Tide (a seafood restaurant from Harold’s in the Heights), Dish Society, Yong (a Korean restaurant), Oddball Eats (a Mediterranean restaurant), Pizza Zsquare, and Amaya Coffee — will remain at Finn Hall with new leases under the new, 20-percent rate.

    Buehrer acknowledges that he thinks each one can generate at least $60,000 a month in revenue. Le calls it an “impossible number” that Sit Lo couldn’t achieve without charging more than customers are willing to pay for Vietnamese food, but Tune says that’s his “low average” for Craft Burger.

    “I think it’s very realistic, as a low model,” Buehrer says. “Hopefully, with James and Ross, Nick and Steph, and Pho Binh, food traffic goes up. All of the vendors have increased sales because of that.”

    Finn Hall's future

    Finn Hall still has some challenges to overcome, especially parking. Being located on the rail makes that an easy way to get to the food hall, but street parking in the area can be limited. Lionstone owns a parking garage at 803 Fannin that’s just a block away from Finn, but the rate isn’t subsidized for food hall patrons. Cartwright acknowledges that parking downtown can be a challenge and that they’re working on developing a more economical solution.

    Pricing at food halls can be a challenge, too. Le says her prices in Sugar Land are approximately “50-percent less” than what she charges at Finn, but the revenue numbers are the similar. Buehrer says that reducing the rental rate should allow vendors to charge less for their food, and that he’s encouraging all of the restaurants to offer at least one, approximately $10 lunch option that could appeal to the office tenants above Finn.

    “The goal is to help people uplift their operation, but [price is] a big part of the conversation when we’re moving in new tenants,” Buehrer says. “Have your awesome, award-winning, whatever it is, but also try to be mindful that people are trying to come here five days a week.”

    A new marketing team has plans to update the food hall's website with a current list of vendors and their menus. The social media accounts are back on a regular posting schedule.

    Buehrer has a vision for other changes he’d like to make, including improving the lighting, changing up the mix of seating, and installing an exterior sign that would catch people’s attention from the street. He’s also looking for a new operator for the food hall’s two bars.

    Ultimately, the goal is to make Finn a dining destination, an amenity for downtown office workers, and a place that’s profitable for both landlord and tenants. While Oz Rey’s model expected a certain amount of turnover, the new management team hopes for more stability among the vendors.

    “We’re kind of flipping the food hall model on its head. Everyone talks about them being an incubator and the churn,” Cartwright says. “If they’re successful, let’s be supportive. If they’re making sales and they have loyal customers and it keeps people coming back to the food hall, let’s sign a five-year deal.”

    news-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

    most read posts

    England-inspired lakeside Houston mansion hits market for $7.75 million

    Houston-area Starbucks closes amid 250 nationwide and more top stories

    Sneak peek at members-only wine club and restaurant opening soon in Upper Kirby

    Notes from a chef

    Globe-trotting Houston chef reviews Noma's $1,500 Los Angeles pop-up

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 9, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles
    Courtesy of David Skinner
    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

    [Editor’s note: When David Skinner, chef and owner of Kemah’s celebrated eculent and Ishtia restaurants, offered to share his experience eating at one of the world’s best restaurants, we said, of course. Read on for his experience at Copenhagen restaurant Noma’s pop-up in Los Angeles that took place this summer. Take it away, David.]

    The crab was alive a few minutes before I ate it.

    Just before service, the kitchen broke down a Dungeness crab and set it over open charcoal, the downtown Los Angeles skyline behind the smoke. It came to the table wreathed in dried pink pepper branches, with a butter sauce built on the same pepper. I've eaten crab all over the world — this was maybe the best crab ever.

    That was the first of 17 courses at Noma LA, and the best bite of the afternoon. Leading with your best shot is either confidence or a statement. By the end of lunch, I'd decided it was both.

    The residency had begun in turmoil. Founder René Redzepi stepped away from the residency the day it opened, following a news investigation into allegations of demeaning treatment of staff — conduct that had been discussed in industry circles for years. Protesters gathered at the gate that day. The kitchen, led by Pablo Soto, carried on through the residency's close on June 26.

    I went for lunch at the Paramour Estate, the 1920s Mediterranean mansion in Silver Lake that Noma called home for 16 weeks. For more than 30 years, I've traveled the world in search of culture, a little mystery, and always food, eating everywhere from strangers' kitchen tables to three-Michelin-star dining rooms.

    As the chef behind eculent and Ishtia in Kemah, I also eat with a cook's eye — which means I'll tell you what was brilliant and what was oversalted. Noma LA had a little of both, but after a half dozen meals at Noma over the past 10 years, I can say this one was a standout.

    The setup

    The logistics alone are remarkable. Noma relocated roughly 130 staff members and their families to Los Angeles and built a pantry sourced within 300 miles of the mansion. Lunch ran 17 courses over about four hours at $1,500 per person, including beverages and gratuity.

    Chef Soto greeted us at the entrance with the full kitchen staff, a Noma tradition. By the time I arrived, the protesters were long gone, and the brigade seemed to be cooking with a sense of relief.

    Rather than choose between the wine pairing and the nonalcoholic program, we asked our server, Mara, to mix the two course by course. She nailed it, moving from a sparkling rose-and-pink-pepper drink to a bright cherimoya lemonade to a 25-year-old Tony Coturri zinfandel from Glen Ellen that became the table's favorite pour.

    The standouts

    The crab. It opened the meal, and nothing that followed topped it. The pink pepper did double duty with the dried branches perfuming the shell, the butter sauce carrying a gentle heat — the sweet, smoky meat needed nothing else. Alongside came a 2022 Phelan Farm chardonnay from Rajat Parr's Cambria operation: white Burgundy in spirit, California in its bones.

    The cactus. Pickled tacinga cactus, marinated in Oaxacan mezcal and citrus and crowned with honeypot ants, arrived beneath a live cactus paddle with a eucalyptus handle.

    The acorn. A single braised acorn, glazed with black pepper, sat atop an uni custard made with Santa Barbara sea urchin and caviar in hoja santa oil. The server described it as a nod to California's Indigenous peoples. As a Choctaw, whose ancestors relied on acorns for thousands of years, I felt that one. It was also the most technically accomplished savory course of the meal.

    The seaweed and clams. Six varieties of Southern California seaweed with butter-kissed clams tasted like the coast itself. This is Noma at its best: not interpreting California so much as listening to it.

    The tuna eye. I've eaten cod eye at Noma in Copenhagen, but this version was way better. The kitchen removed the tough cornea, replaced it with a thin disk of kumquat, and served the eye chilled inside a ruby-red banana flower bract. Rich and gelatinous, it's eaten in one bite. When our table wondered aloud where the rest of all that tuna goes, Mara had the answer: family meal for the staff.

    The kelp mole. Grilled greens, a squash blossom stuffed with huitlacoche, and an artichoke on its stalk arrived with tortillas from Komal, one of Los Angeles's top heirloom molinos, paired with a mole built on kelp.

    Between the acorn, the cactus, and the mole, a question kept surfacing: what does it mean for a Danish kitchen to arrive in someone else's pantry and cook as though it has always been there? Some of these ingredients have fed Indigenous and Mexican cooks for centuries. Noma handled them with obvious respect and real curiosity. Sometimes, though, the line between homage and borrowing comes down to whether you're willing to say the name out loud.

    Dessert kept the surprises coming, including a macadamia custard served in a sunflower whose base turned out to be beeswax. The finale arrived as a bundle of ferns tied with string. Diners snip it open with tiny scissors to find a chocolate cookie and a fortune inside. Mine quoted Nietzsche: You must have chaos within you to give birth to a dancing star.

    Nietzsche, at $1,500 a head, in a Silver Lake mansion, from a kitchen whose founder walked away on opening day while protesters stood at the gate. The kitchen knew exactly what it was doing.

    The full menu, course by course

    For those keeping score, here's the complete lineup.

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab
    Daylily crab dumpling — The rest of the crab, tucked inside a trumpet-shaped daylily with buds plumped in crustacean liquor. The flower dominated; the crab was the reason to eat it.
    Chilled lobster broth — Spiny lobster stock, dashi, and elderflower oil served chilled in the lobster's own coral-colored shell. A palate reset dressed as a course.
    Spot prawn with matcha — Served in real seaweed, the head filled with smoked pumpkin paste for sucking, the tail painted with matcha. Paired with the 2024 Verso from Caleb Leisure in Sebastopol.
    Sea urchin custard and braised acorn
    Cactus with mezcal
    Ragout of California botanicals — Seasonal greens, peas, and herbs in a warm, quiet preparation, tied together by a hint of horseradish.
    SoCal seaweed and clam
    Tuna neck — Minced tuna neck in a koji-inoculated steamed bun with the texture of suede, topped with translucent shards of dried chicken-stock skin. Paired with the 2000 Estate Zinfandel from Tony Coturri.
    Tuna eye
    Black pearl rice steamed in avocado leaf — Ringed with pistachio oil and scattered with dime-sized macadamia slices. Humble ingredients in the spirit of California great Jeremiah Tower.
    Morels with habanero and yuzu — Sierra Nevada morels on turkey-tail mushrooms over hot stones. Bright and spicy, but heavy on the salt.
    Greens and grilled artichoke in spiced kelp mole
    Cherimoya and lemongrass — A green cocoa butter shell shaped like a cactus, hiding a smooth cherimoya ice cream. A California fruit most California menus ignore.
    Macadamia milk custard and pistachio — Topped with heirloom Hong Kong kumquats from a handful of research trees that fruit four weeks a year, served in a beeswax-lined sunflower.
    Silver Lake fortune cookie — A Chiapas chocolate mousse cookie garnished with insects, hidden in a bundle of ferns you cut open with tiny scissors. Fortune included.

    The misses

    Not every course landed. Morels with habanero and yuzu were oversalted, and some presentations were delivered too quietly to catch the full story. At $1,500 a seat, the storytelling should be as confident as the cooking.

    The verdict

    Having now eaten Noma's traveling editions in Tulum and Los Angeles, I'll offer an opinion that may be unpopular in certain circles: the pop-ups are better than Copenhagen. Maybe it's the hunt for new ingredients, or the urgency of a 16-week run in a borrowed house. Whatever the reason, the results are hard to argue with. I put that theory to the test in August, when I returned to Noma on my birthday, three days after it reopened with Soto at the helm. More on that meal soon.

    Noma LA wasn't really a restaurant. It was an argument about a place, made in food, by people who flew 6,000 miles to make it. The argument was frequently brilliant, occasionally presumptuous, and closed with Nietzsche in a fortune cookie. On balance, it won.

    ----

    David Skinner is a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas and the owner of eculent and Ishtia in Kemah. He also writes the culinary travel journal Destination Eater on Substack.

    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles

    Courtesy of David Skinner

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

    news-you-can-eatchefs
    news/restaurants-bars
    CULTUREMAP EMAILS ARE AWESOME
    Get Houston intel delivered daily.
    Loading...