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    Do they have good fences?

    Houston's 11 best neighborhood restaurants dish out divine daily dining

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 4, 2020 | 3:40 pm

    UPDATE: The CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, originally scheduled for April 2, will now be held on August 6. The story has been updated with the new date.

    ---

    In this category of the 2020 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, we celebrate the city's best neighborhood restaurants. To narrow down the field slightly, we require that they be open for lunch and dinner at least six days per week.

    Of course, those requirements still include thousands of restaurants at all price points — everything from State of Grace and Vic & Anthony's on the high end to taco trucks at the more humble end of the spectrum — so what defines a contender for Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year?

    Outstanding food and hospitable service are important, of course, as they are at all restaurants. So is the ability to meet a variety of needs; ideally, they're accessible for people with a range of dining needs, whether that's vegetarian or gluten-free.

    In addition, the restaurant has to be a place whose absence would make the neighborhood feel incomplete. Consider our 2018 winner, Paulie’s, as one example. Montrose just wouldn't be the same without it.

    Who will win? Find out August 6 at the Tastemaker Awards party. We’ll dine on bites from this year’s nominated restaurants before emcee Bun B reveals the winners. Buy tickets (at special early bird pricing!) now.

    Aladdin Mediterranean Cuisine
    Whether at the original location in Montrose or the newer outpost in Oak Forest, diners can count on this restaurant for an appealing array of vegetables, skewered meats, and freshly baked pita. The low prices — most meals come in under $15 — mean that its fresh, healthy fare is good for the wallet, too. Being open all the time, even on holidays when other restaurants are closed, only enhances its utility.

    Cuchara Mexico City Bistro
    At this charming Montrose staple, proprietor Ana Beaven and her team of cooks serve up an authentic taste of Mexico City. The wide-ranging menu satisfies almost any craving, with dishes as diverse as Veracruz-style red snapper; lamb barbacoa (with housemade corn tortillas, natch); and huitlacoche quesadillas all setting a high standard. Eye-catching murals (created by Beaven’s sister Cecilia) and first-rate cocktails help set Cuchara apart from other restaurants.

    Les Ba'get
    This former food truck really came into its own when it moved from Montrose to Oak Forest. In addition to more seating, the larger kitchen allowed chef Cat Huynh to expand his menu with more of his innovative small plates like the lemongrass-grilled bone marrow and bun rieu crab omelette. Of course, staples like brisket pho and hoisin butter chicken vermicelli remain as fresh and delicious as ever.

    Melange Creperie
    This chic cafe feels a long way from proprietor “Buffalo” Sean Carroll’s days slinging crepes in a parking lot on lower Westheimer, but Melange continues to earn fans with its innovative dishes that are inspired by Houston’s immigrant communities. Staples like ham, egg, and cheese or banana-Nutella anchor the menu, but using seasonal ingredients means that diners will always find something new to try. Salads, sandwiches, and sweet offer plenty of variety. Heck yeah.

    Pondicheri Café
    As her recent James Beard Award semifinalist nomination attests, chef Anita Jaisinghani remains a vital presence in Houston’s culinary landscape. More than a venue for her innovative, Indian-inspired cuisine and signature sweets, Jaisinghani uses Pondicheri to advocate for the way she thinks diners should be eating. On a recent episode of the Radio Cherry Bombe podcast, she noted that she’s reduced the amount of animal protein included in dishes in order to encourage people to eat more sustainably. A restaurant that’s not only concerned with good eating but also good ethics — that’s a neighborhood staple.

    Ramen Tatsu-ya
    This Austin import serves up steaming bowls of soup daily. While the signature pork broth, boiled for endless hours, has a rich, satisfying flavor and creamy texture that’s hard to resist, vegans have their own soup to slurp. Small plates — don’t miss the Brussels sprouts — and a tidy selection of beer and sake-based cocktails make Tatsu-ya an appealing dinner option.

    Roostar Vietnamese Grill
    At their locations near The Galleria and in Spring Branch, owners Linda and Ronnie Nguyen exceed diners’ expectations for the humble banh mi with their flavorful meats and toppings — and the sneaky good soups. Devoted to customer service and growing their business, Nguyen always seems to have something new to try, like the recent Thai-inspired beef curry. Pair that barbecue pork banh mi (add pate for maximum flavor) with a pint from the well-chosen selection of craft beers.

    Superica
    Superica's Texan founders, chefs Ford Fry and Kevin Maxey, demonstrate a deep love for our state’s most popular cuisine at this Heights (by way of Atlanta) restaurant. Superica gets the details right — the tortillas, salsas, and queso are all first-rate — which means the fajitas, enchiladas, and margaritas will all meet every Texan’s very demanding standards. Don’t miss the slightly sweet, hearty pancakes on the brunch menu; they’re perfect for sharing with the table.

    The Original Ninfa's on Navigation
    As its James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for the country’s most outstanding restaurant demonstrates, the restaurant that brought the world fajitas continues to set a high standard. Feeding generations of Houstonians fajitas, enchiladas, and queso would more than earn it a spot among our nominees, but chef Alex Padilla keeps things interesting with a rotating mix of specials that utilize the restaurant’s wood-burning oven and grill. Last year’s expansion to the Galleria area means more Houstonians than ever can enjoy this classic establishment.

    Tiny Boxwoods
    Whether at the River Oaks original or its offshoot in West University, this casual cafe delivers classic comfort food that consistently exceeds expectations. Fresh salads, satisfying sandwiches, and hearty entrees always feature solid technique and good ingredients. The chocolate chip cookies are so legendary that they’ve earned their own spinoff kiosk, but don’t sleep on the extremely flavorful cinnamon rolls.

    Weights and Measures
    Having recently celebrated its five-year anniversary, this Midtown establishment continues to satisfy its patrons at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The signature dough room powers the restaurant, turning out everything from croissants and cookies to pizza crusts and housemade pastas. Some new faces may be overseeing operations in the dining room — specifically, managers James Peat (La Table, Le Colonial) and Angela Moore (The Pass & Provisions) — chefs Richard Kaplan and Fernando Rios ensure that the signature carrot pizza maintains its lofty reputation.

    Ninfa's remains an essential Houston restaurant.

    Original Ninfa's beef fajitas
      
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    Ninfa's remains an essential Houston restaurant.
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    he finished the job

    Houston chef Tristen Epps dishes on his Top Chef victory — and what's next

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 13, 2025 | 9:05 am
    Top Chef Tristen Epps
    Photo by David Moir/Bravo
    Kristen Kish, Tristen Epps, Gail Simmons, and Tom Colicchio.

    Houston has played a leading role in America’s culinary scene, but the city has never been home to a Top Chef winner — until last night. In the final episode of season 22, chef Tristen Epps earned the title and a $250,000 cash prize.

    Epps secured his victory by remaining true to the Afro-Caribbean cuisine that helped him secured an impressive four Elimination Challenge wins and $35,000 in additional prize money from two Quickfire wins and as a member of the team that won the show’s signature Restaurant Wars challenge. His four-course menu took a panel of celebrity judges on a journey that also referenced the finale location of Milan, Italy.

    In particular, Epps wowed the panel with his second course — Chicken “Durango” with injera shrimp toast and shellfish jus — that referenced both the Ethiopian chicken stew doro wat and the Italian dish pollo durango, a sly nod to the history of imperialism between the two countries. He finished his savory offerings with Oxtail Milanese Crepinette with Carolina Gold rice grits, curry butter, and bone marrow gremolata, which earned praised from the panel.

    “Historically, we’ve been underserved oxtail,” Top Chef alum and James Beard Award winner Gregory Gourdet said during the episode. “Tristen took the time to pull it, create that beautiful, huge, maybe too big, portion of oxtail. And cover it with that gremolata. He did not forget the bone marrow. That’s very, very smart.”

    Throughout Top Chef’s run, Epps has been holding a series of pop-ups devoted to everything from hot dogs to steakhouses. Now, he can turn his attention to Buboy, a tasting menu concept that will celebrate the Afro-Caribbean cuisine he championed throughout his time on the show.

    CultureMap caught up with Epps on Friday morning for a brief chat about his victory and what’s next.

    CultureMap: What do you remember from the day you cooked that final dinner?
    Tristen Epps: It was an extreme amount of focus. A lot of writing in my notebook. I didn’t want to laugh. I didn’t want to cry or do anything except finish the job, regardless of whatever the outcome would have been. I remember wanting to call my mom. I really wanted to talk things out so I could calm myself down and stay within my focus. Once I got into cooking, I felt so much at ease. It’s my happy place. It’s my serenity.

    CM: How did you feel when you saw Gregory Gourdet on the panel? Did you feel like you had an advocate in the room?
    TE: I’ve cooked with gregory before, a long time ago. It was really fun. I loved what he was doing.

    I felt like I had kind of an advocate. I was worried my food wold be too spicy or too overpowering [for the European chefs]. Seeing Gregory was really good, especially with what I was doing.

    CM: Other chefs, including Gregory Gourdet and Houston chef Dawn Burrell, have done well on the show with Afro-Caribbean cuisine but they didn’t win. How important was it to you to finish the job and use those flavors to win the title?
    TE: To me that was super important. There’s adventurous people who make phenomenal food. They’ll go once because it’s interesting, bu they’re usually skeptical. When you don’t nail it, they say, that’s why I go to the regular places that are familiar.

    Finishing the job was really important to me. People have come up short on this. I wanted to get this right for everyone who’s made that step forward and created the ladder.

    CM: What have your last 12 hours been like since the episode aired? Have any celebrities reached out to you?
    TE: A lot of calls, a lot of good luck. A lot of everything. It’s been amazing.

    A lot of past Top Chef winners reached out to me, giving me a lot of support and telling me what they did after they won.

    [ESPN football commentator] Mina Kimes did, which was really cool.

    CM: What are your plans for the prize money?
    TE: It’s going to go to Buboy. Now that the cat’s out of the bag, it can go a little faster.

    CM: You’ve been holding a series of pop-ups that range from tasting menus to hot dogs? What’s next?
    TE: Part of getting the restaurant open has been introducing myself to all of Houston. These pop-ups represent my interests and my fun. They’re the things that Buboy is going to represent. It can be fun, it can be a conversation, it can be educational, it can push the limits of cuisines we know. It’s an expression of culture in whatever way I see fit that day.

    The hot dog concept will probably be a separate venture, but who’s to say there’s not a hot dog at the end of that meal?

    Top Chef Tristen Epps
      

    Photo by David Moir/Bravo

    Kristen Kish, Tristen Epps, Gail Simmons, and Tom Colicchio.

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