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    no masked intentions

    Houston restaurants and diners prefer continued COVID protocols in informal poll

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 3, 2021 | 1:10 pm
    Lucille's 1913 guest bartenders Eight Row Flint
    Mask wearing will continue at many Houston restaurants.
    Courtesy of Lucille's 1913

    Texas Gov. Greg Abbott may have allowed the state’s restaurants to operate both at full capacity and without mask requirements beginning March 10, but business who do so may risk alienating their customers. For now, most Houstonians want mask wearing and capacity restrictions to continue.

    In an informal poll I conducted on Instagram (asking if restaurant customers and diners would patronize establishments that open at 100 percent without masks), 125 out of a total of 135 of respondents said they would not patronize such a restaurant. Those who responded to my question include frequent Houston diners.

    Participants offered a number of reasons for their choice, including concern for the safety of restaurant workers, the lack of access to vaccines, and CDC guidelines that continue to emphasize mask wearing.

    Some of those who responded that they’re ready for maskless dining at full capacity indicated that they’ve either received a dose of the vaccine or have immunity after recovering from COVID-19. Others said they won’t patronize restaurants that continue to require masks.

    Despite that vocal minority, many Houston restaurants have indicated they will continue to operate at limited capacity and with mask requirements for customers when not seated at their table. The view may be best summed up by Anvil owner Bobby Heugel’s post to Instagram.

    View this post on Instagram

    A post shared by Bobby Heugel (@bobby_heugel)

    Dozens of other Houston restaurants have issued their own statements indicating they will continue to operate with their current procedures in place. “We feel strongly that it is not our time to loosen any protocols for everyone’s safety,” Goodnight Night Hospitality, the restaurant group behind Rosie Cannonball and Montrose Cheese & Wine, stated. “That time will come when everyone has the equal ability to easily find a vaccine.”

    Local blog It’s Not Hou It’s Me has created a crowd-sourced list with hundreds of entries for local businesses that will maintain various COVID protocols, including capacity restrictions and mask requirements for both customers and employees.

    Still, the possibility exists that restaurant workers will receive angry responses from people who object to wearing masks. Late last year, an employee at Grand Prize bar was assaulted by a patron after being told to wear a mask while walking to the restroom.

    Operators who are struggling with how to manage these concerns don’t have good choices. During a press conference after Abbott’s announcement, Kelsey Erickson Streufert, the Texas Restaurant Association’s vice president for government relations and advocacy, acknowledged that confrontations may occur; she encouraged diners to respect a business’ decision to operate as it sees fit.

    “We call upon every single Texan to show each other grace and kindness and patience. Everyone has strong opinions about the virus and what we need to be doing, but at the end of the day, these are small business owners in many cases with young employees who are just trying to do the best job that they can.”

    That sounds pretty optimistic, but it might happen as long as the majority of customers support operating with COVID protocols in place.

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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