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    The CultureMap Interview

    'Nerd king' reveals science of home cooking and geeky delights in popular cookbook and classes

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 24, 2016 | 1:15 pm

    The "nerd king of Internet cooking" is in Texas this week. J. Kenji López-Alt, author of the bestselling cookbook The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science, is teaching a series of sold-out cooking classes at Central Market stores in Houston, Austin, and Dallas.

    López-Alt's celebrity status stems from the work he's published on the Serious Eats website, where his column takes a scientific look at questions such as whether searing a raw steak "seals in the juices" (it doesn't) and the steps necessary to cook the perfect burger (flip frequently!).

    Those recommendations are much, much more are thoroughly documented in The Food Lab, which has been a smash hit since its publication in September. Following in the steps of people like Alton Brown and Mr. Wizard, López-Alt documents not just the hows of better cooking but also the whys. Not a surprising approach considering López-Alt graduated from MIT and describes himself as "part mad scientist, part cook."

    Reviewers have agreed. The New York Times praised the way López-Alt makes "difficult concepts easy to grasp for those of us with a lifelong lack of aptitude for the sciences." Similarly, Epicurious notes that the author understands "the food nerds reading this book almost as much as you understand the way asparagus takes on a melt-in-your-mouth texture at 183°F."

    CultureMap caught up with López-Alt from his home in California. He answered questions about his cookbook's success, why he's teaching an all-breakfast class, and provided some thoughts on whether a hot dog is a sandwich.

    CultureMap: Have people responded to the book the way you anticipated?

    J. Kenji López-Alt: Yes, but on a much bigger scale. From the type of audience the column has, I knew the types of people who would be interested in the book. I never anticipated it would be as popular as it is. It’s a good kind of shock.

    There are some types of people who got interested who I didn't anticipate. I thought it would be most interesting to pop science fans and really nerdy home cooks . . . I didn’t really write it to be a recipe book, but some people use it that way, which is good.

    CM: What recipes are people finding most useful/surprising?

    KLA: A lot of people have mentioned they use my steak technique now. A lot of it is that whole chapter on quick-cooking meat. It really is sort of the ones I was expecting, the classic American dishes: steak, burgers, fried chicken. Potatoes au gratin that I have in there is the most popular recipe . . . It’s all that sort of comfort food. The stuff you don’t eat every day but you want it to be really good when you do.

    CM: What recipes didn’t make this book that you hope to publish in the next one?

    KLA: The book was originally 1600 pages long. It was going to be two, 800-page volumes. We decided at the end to cut it down to one volume. It seemed a little too ambitious to publish two volumes for my first cookbook . . . The first book was mostly American. The second book is going to contain more things like Chinese food, Mexican. Things that are familiar to Americans but come from a different part of the world. The second book will also have a lot of pizza.

    CM: Will you preview some of your pizza secrets?

    KLA: In the book, there’s five different styles of pizza and they’re all unique. For Neapolitan, it’s all about a high temperature . . . The overarching theme is how to make dough properly. I recommend a food processor or a no-knead method to produce superior flavor and texture to a stand mixer.

    CM: You supported the Misen chef's knife Kickstarter. What are the criteria you use when deciding whether to endorse a product?

    KLA: Basically, people send me things all the time. Most of the time I either delete the email or I say thank you and find a way to give it away to someone. This was something that came across my door that looks better than most new knives I’d seen in terms of design. I used it for about a month, and it turns out it’s a really great knife.

    One of the most popular articles I’ve ever done is picking a chef’s knife. The difficult part with knives is it’s easy to get a cheap knife, but cheap knives don’t compare to a good quality knife. Most are $100 or more, a lot more. Finding a sweet spot between a good quality and price is something I’d been looking for. It hit the sweet spot.

    CM: Why did you choose breakfast foods for your class at Central Market?

    KLA: Every time I write about eggs it ends up being one of the most popular articles I’ve written. There’s something about eggs people love to read about. I also think its's the first kind of food most people learn to cook.

    They start out as a mucousy liquid. You can make them hard, you can make them custardy . . . they just have so many uses. It depends on the process. Even with just one egg, you can come up with different textures and process. For someone who’s interested in process, eggs are a great ingredient.

    CM: Finally, Twitter user @NickSeam asks: If Jell-O can be a salad, why can’t a hot dog be a sandwich?

    KLA: I wouldn’t call Jell-O salads real salads (laughs). There is this sort of taxonomic question. If you come up with a sandwich of "sandwich," if you apply it to hot dogs you find out a hot dog is a sandwich. If you ask most people, they’ll say no fucking way (is a hot dog a sandwich). Rather than trying to force people to believe a hot dog is a sandwich, we need to find a new definition of sandwich.

    Portions of this interview have been edited for length and clarity.

    J. Kenji López-Alt is teaching sold-out cooking classes at Central Market.

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    oh bevin

    Houston bartender's new book celebrates cocktails and sexuality

    Craig D. Lindsey
    Apr 14, 2026 | 1:15 pm
    Bevin Biggers Aphro cocktail
    Photo by Troy Ezequiel Montes
    Bevin Biggers writes about sex and cocktails in her new book, Aphro.

    “There's a lot of stigma about sexuality, especially with black women.”

    Louisiana-born, Houston-based mixologist/multidisciplinary artist Bevin Biggers says as she’s flipping through the pages of her literary debut Aphro: A Cocktail Book on the Sexual Response Cycle. A veteran of Houston’s bar and restaurant scene, who has worked nightspots from Montrose to the Heights and collaborated with big-name alcohol brands (and who also isn’t afraid to call out shady establishments), Biggers has created a project that’s part cocktail manual and part Black, female sexuality manifesto.

    “We already have a lot of other s**t going on and then, on top of that, it's sex, too,” says Biggers, while sipping on a drink at a Midtown watering hole. She points out that, when it comes to media representation, Black women have been stuck with many stereotypical caricatures/portrayals throughout the decades: maids, baby mommas, lesbians, jezebels, sistas who are just plain ol’ angry. But as for Black women who freely explore their sexuality with no shame or repercussions, the culture usually comes up empty.

    “[White women] can be explorative and do all these different things. Black women do it and it’s ‘she’s a whore’ or whatever, right? So, all these caricatures kind of negatively impact how we live, and I talk about all of that here,” she says.

    Aphro originally began a decade ago as a bar concept. After years of becoming a pro in the mixology game, even honing her craft-cocktail skills while living in New York (where she became a fan of the city’s Museum of Sex), she wanted to make it a full-fledged business. Unfortunately, this hasn’t been a good time to open a bar (“Bars are expensive,” she confirms).

    Eventually, it morphed into a book project where Biggers drops sex talk, cocktail recipes, and surprising bits of African American history. “There's a lot of Black bartenders back in the day who freed their wives, their children, and themselves from slavery, using bartenderships,” she says.

    The sex lives of African Americans during and after slavery is a subject Biggers has done extensive research on. Last November, she gave her Substack readers an Aphro taste when she posted a lengthy study on chattel slavery and its impact on the orgasm gap. “It's still a real cocktail book – there are still many pages of recipes,” she assures. “But, here, I talk about stereotypes, caricatures of black women, the orgasm gap, chattel slavery, and how things almost connect to current times.” She also included a questionnaire she sent women regarding orgasms. “I asked very specific questions, and I got a lot of f—ed-up answers, which was the whole point ”

    Funded by a grant from Houston Arts Alliance, Biggers worked with Toronto-based Sure Print & Design to put Aphro into book form. She collaborated with local photographer Rosebeth Akharamen in serving up glorious color shots of the suggestively-named cocktails, made from “aphrodisiac ingredients,” Biggers had conceived.

    Drinks range from “Late Night Cinemax,” (consisting of mezcal, corn puree, chipotle honey, coconut, and a popcorn garnish) to “Locally Deflower” (which includes Texas sized herbs and “delicate floral notes to evoke a softer intimacy”). These 20 recipes are the result of Biggers spending over a decade getting to know more about classic cocktails and modern bartending techniques.

    “I come from Hiram Clarke, where it’s just Hennessy, Alize, Crown Royal,” she says. “And, then, when I came to start bartending, I was learning about Fernet and Montenegro and IPAs and good considerations of beers, and I was like, what the hell is all this? But I want to learn. I want to know what y'all know,” she says.

    We also get seductive shots of Biggers herself, all glammed up in several swanky locations, including her own living room. “I didn’t see any of these photos when she took them because we were in a rush, because of the makeup artists, and I had to do my makeup all over again,” she says. “So, this was all trust, and she knocked it out the park.”

    For Biggers, it’s all worth it if her fellow cocoa-colored beauties buy her book and start feeling more grown, Black, and sexy about themselves. “The inspiration is always being curious about this topic, but it was such a big deal in my community, of not wanting to be accused of being fast,” she says. “Even something that's mutual, it's always, what did you do to him? If it's kissing, it’s you kissed him, and it's not like, y'all kissed each other, you know. There was always punishment for something that's kind of natural. Then, when you're curious about something like that, you start to learn about it in dangerous ways… You learn through strangers, because your parents are not telling you anything about this stuff. You learn through movies. You learn through putting viruses on the f—ing computer, because you typed in the wrong thing, and now, the home computer, the family computer is f—ed up.”

    Biggers ordered a limited run of Aphro volumes that she sells on her website, which also has related merch like color prints and an adult coloring book. She still has dreams of turning her book into a watering hole one day. Until then, she’ll continue her mission of instructing women (and men) on how to stir up your sex life – as well as a stiff drink.

    ----

    Biggers will host an Aphro book release party/talk at Los Perros Cafe on Friday, April 17, at 7 pm. RSVP here.


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