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    Five Questions

    We got the dish from food columnist John Mariani

    Shelby Hodge
    Feb 24, 2010 | 2:00 pm

    How, we ask, does food columnist and author John Mariani weigh less than an NFL tackle? The man who eats for a living swept through Houston on a foodie binge last week sampling lunch and dinners at RDG, Valentino and a host of other eateries. We pulled him aside between pastas and profiteroles to ask a few questions.

    Q: How would you describe the current Houston restaurant scene?

    A: It's more vibrant than most cities outside of New York. I would say that the reason I come here every year is because there really are restaurants that have to be checked out. Sometimes, I won't go to New Orleans for a year. I may not get to Atlanta. But I just always have to come here. This trip, I've missed visiting a couple of places. I may have to come back before the end of summer. There are two or three more places that I want to see.

    Q: How do you fight the battle of the bulge?

    A: I try to watch it as much as possible. I try to get to the gym, do all the regulation things. And when you do it for a living, it's not that . . . I mean, this suit doesn't fit like it once did. The last time I went to the tailor and asked him to let my pants out, he said, "Look, I'm a tailor, not a magician."

    Q: What is your exercise regimen?

    A: I power walk for three miles then I go down to the gym for the Nautilus type machines and so forth.

    Q: What are your eating habits when you are not visiting restaurants every lunch and dinner?

    A: When I'm at home, I have a very small breakfast and a small lunch because invariably if I'm not out at a restaurant in New York, my wife is a phenomenally good cook. She co-authored our last book. So we always eat very well at my house and always with a bottle of wine.

    Q: What do you do enjoy doing during your down time?

    A: Napping and reading the paper.

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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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