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    Now Federal Grill

    Houston's great restaurant switch: A high-end spot transitions to new name, new chef, new owner

    Marcy de Luna
    Marcy de Luna
    Feb 14, 2013 | 1:58 pm

    It’s been known that three years after opening Branch Water Tavern, chef and owner David Grossman has decided to move and reopen the restaurant at a different location. It's also been known that Grossman has let restaurateur Matt Brice of Bistro des Amis take over the building's lease at Shepherd (just south of Washington Avenue) for the next couple of months with the restaurant still operating and Grossman still in place as executive chef.

    What was not known is Brice's vision for the space post Grossman and Branch Water's departure.

    Now it is. Set to launch in March 2013 in the Branch Water building, Brice's The Federal Grill is tagged as, “A Modern American Grill: Classic American Dishes Presented with a Modern Point-of-View.” Grossman takes the name, Branch Water Tavern, and two recipes — the chicken fried oysters and the sticky toffee pudding — with him to his new restaurant.

    The rest of the menu is staying, negotiated as part of the changeover deal.

    While daily $10 lunch specials such as “Fried Chicken Thursdays” will continue, more menu items at the $12 to $15 price point will be offered.

    Brice does, however, have big plans for expanding the restaurant's existing core menus. He is already serving some additional dishes, including the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, Prime Filet Mignon and Truffle Mac and Cheese.

    Changes to lunch will include quick turnaround service, with the idea being to give diners on-the-go the ability to get in and out within 30 minutes. While daily $10 lunch specials such as “Fried Chicken Thursdays” will continue, more menu items at the $12 to $15 price point will be offered.

    There will be significant changes at the bar too. Federal Grill will continue to offer a large array of artisan beer, boutique wines, American whiskeys and bourbons, and other spirits, but new happy hour and bar menus will be introduced. There will also be more seating and additional TVs.

    Brunch lovers will be pleased to learn that you'll still be able to order Branch Water Tavern's versions of the popular Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp & Grits, Truffle Egg Sandwich and Chicken Pot Pie on Saturdays as well as Sundays when new hours go into effect.

    Brice says he guarantees that genuine old-school service will be the standard at The Federal Grill stating, "I want our guests to feel at home and well cared for, whether grabbing a quick lunch or an evening celebrating with friends and family. For me, the answer will always be ‘Yes . . . now what is the question?' "

    Beginning in March, the restaurant will open seven days a week, serving lunch and dinner on weekdays and brunch and dinner on weekends.

    510 Shepherd, once known as Branch Water Tavern...

    Branch Water Tavern, interior
    Branch Water Tavern Facebook
    510 Shepherd, once known as Branch Water Tavern...
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    news/restaurants-bars

    J.J.'s hot takes

    Texans legend J.J. Watt drops 'controversial' crawfish take on soccer podcast

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 5, 2026 | 4:22 pm
    JJ Watt Men in Blazers
    Courtesy of FIFA World Cup 2026 Houston Host Committee
    J.J. Watt discussed Houston's food scene on Men in Blazers.

    “If you’re checking your watch, I’m on food talk now, so we’re going to be awhile.”

    With that comment, former Houston Texans star and future Pro Football Hall of Famer J.J. Watt launched into an epic tribute to Houston’s dynamic food scene. Speaking with host Roger Bennett on the globally-renown soccer podcast Men in Blazers, Watt spent about 15 minutes introducing the show’s audience to many of the cuisines and restaurants that Houstonians love.

    “When you look at this singular city, at Houston, what is it in your mind that makes it great — that the world is going to see this summer,” Bennett asks at approximately the 1:45 mark.



    “Food,” Watt replies. “Truthfully, we have great, great food. I have always said that Houston is one of the most underrated food cities in the world. People that come here are going to get fatter.”

    Encouraged by Bennett to “go deeper” into the topic, Watt offered more than 20 suggestions for restaurants to try. They included:

    • Breakfast tacos at Island Grill and Pappas Bar-B-Q
    • Barbecue at Killen’s Barbecue
    • Burgers at Becks Prime, The Burger Joint, and Killen’s Burgers
    • Seafood at Pappadeaux

    Watt told an entertaining anecdote about Trill Burgers, the smash burger concept from Houston hip-hop legend Bun B.

    “Trill Burgers, they put something in there that can’t be legal,” Watt quipped. “I’ve talked to Bun B. It’s like crack, okay? He gave me one of those burgers. When I came back from the Ring of Honor at the Texans, they put Trill Burgers in our suite. There were six, and there were 12 people in the suite. I had four of them. Everyone else had to fight over two burgers.”

    Asked about crawfish, Watt dropped an opinion that he acknowledged would be controversial. “You’re not going to like,” he told the 300-person, sold-out crowd.

    “That’s a lot of work. Then they tell you to suck the head. I’ll be honest. Didn’t do a lot for me,” Watt stated. “Look at this [points to himself]. The amount of crawfish you have to break and eat. When they dump it all out, I have to have my own 9-foot table. Nobody has the time to break that many crawfish open and suck the heads on every one.”

    Watt appeared on the show as part of its Houston episode that marked 99 days until the start of the 2026 FIFA World Cup. Houston Rockets icon and Basketball Hall of Famers Hakeem Olajuwon also appeared on the show, which was recorded at Rice University.

    Houston will host seven matches from June 14 - July 4, including five in the group stage and one each in the round of 32 and the round of 16. Find more details about the tournament and local celebrations at the official FIFA World Cup 2026 Houston Host Committee website.

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