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    What's Eric Eating Episode 129

    Why fine dining remains relevant in 2020, plus West U's buzzy new hot spot

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 30, 2020 | 2:00 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Steven Conklin and general manager Valerio Lombardozzi join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss La Table, the French-influenced fine dining restaurant near the Galleria. The conversation begins with both men describing the paths that led them to Houston.

    The conversation touches on a variety of topics, including Conklin's relationship with Invest Hospitality, the New York-based firm that manages La Table, how Lombardozzi learned the secrets of tableside preparation, and the ingredients that justify the $90 price tag of the restaurant's signature whole chicken for two. Sandler, something of a fine dining skeptic, asks Conklin what makes La Table's approach different from other, more casual establishments that also serve high-quality food.

    "What makes La Table and fine dining special is there's not a lot of it. Food and ingredients always have to be special, obviously, but when you eat out a lot, not a lot of restaurants recognize guests every single time," the chef says. "If you want to spend money and you like a place and want to go there over and over again, by your second visit, we know who you are. We're taking notes on what you like. Every time you come in, we're trying to achieve what your goals are."

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: BuffBurger suddenly closing two of its three restaurants; Bagel Bob's imminent return to the Memorial area; and Treebeards' plans to open its first location outside of downtown.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, the hosts discuss their recent meals at El Topo, the recently opened brick and mortar home of the popular food truck, and Guard and Grace, downtown's stylish new steakhouse.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Valerio Lombardozzi prepares a tableside steak.

    Valerio Lombardozzi La Table
    Courtesy of La Table
    Valerio Lombardozzi prepares a tableside steak.
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    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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