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    Roosting in Conroe

    Houston Cajun favorite takes flight with new fast-food restaurant — crawfish included

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 8, 2021 | 1:00 pm

    The minds behind Houston Cajun favorite BB's Tex-Orleans are spicing up the drive-thru with a new concept. Maricela and Brooks Bassler are preparing to open Swamp Birds later this month in Conroe.

    “Swamp Birds started as a vision for a really simplified, Southern-inspired, Cajun restaurant that was fast and really pays attention to the value/price trade-off,” Brooks Bassler tells CultureMap. “At the end of the day, we feel that in the fast food world there’s nothing like what we’re about to do.”

    The Basslers have achieved success with BB’s, growing it to 10 locations. Houstonians have come to rely on the concept for crawfish, Cajun staples like etouffee and po’ boys, and original creations like the signature Tex-Cajun fries, a riff on poutine topped with roast beef debris.

    Swamp Birds’ menu starts with a few BB’s classics in the form of red beans and rice, chicken and sausage gumbo, and boiled crawfish (in season), but most of the dishes have been developed specifically for the restaurant, including fried shrimp, fried fish, chicken tenders, and boiled shrimp.

    Two items that the couple are particularly excited about are a Nashville-style hot chicken sandwich and the Cajun Crunchie, a deep-fried wrap stuffed with roast beef debris and cheese.

    The hot chicken sandwich has a special twist, too. Mexican peppers in the dipping sauce give it a depth of flavor that sets it apart from similar offerings.

    “We’re putting our Houston funk on it so to speak,” Bassler says. “You can get that sandwich for $4.49. It’s filling and it’s good.”

    While BB’s starts serving the largest possible crawfish as early in the season as possible, Swamp Birds will wait until March 1 to allow supplies to increase and prices to come down. Bassler plans to sell them for $6 per pound at the start of the season and $4.50 - 5 after Easter.

    “This concept will have a shorter season than BB’s, primarily so we can fit into the price point we want to be in on boiled crawfish,” Bassler says. “On this concept, we’re not as worried about size. We’re going for a more old school style experience where it’s a blend of field-run crawfish.”

    As for the location, Bassler says he couldn’t resist the convenience of a turnkey space in a prime spot near a H-E-B (2016 N. Frasier St. in Conroe). Even though they only signed the lease in September, he expects to open January 25. If it goes well, expect to see Swamp Birds roost in other parts of Houston and beyond.

    “Maricela and I are pretty realistic people. Our goal is to get three to four, maybe five corporate-owned spots in the Houston area,” Bassler says.

    “The goal is to grow it, but we want to be careful and prove it has legs. I think we’ll know that in the first 90 days.”

    Swamp Birds opens January 25.

    Swamp Birds exterior
    Courtesy of Swamp Birds
    Swamp Birds opens January 25.
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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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