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    rising above the andes

    Veteran Houston chef unveils upscale new South American restaurant in Highland Village

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 6, 2020 | 1:05 pm
    David Guerrero Andes Cafe
    David Guerrero is preparing his next project.
    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Don’t count out David Guerrero. The chef may have closed Andes Cafe last weekend, but he’s almost ready to unveil his ambitious new project.

    Alma, an upscale South American restaurant, will open in Highland Village as soon as next week. Located in the former Drexel House space at 3974 Westheimer Rd., Alma will serve a range of dishes inspired by techniques Guerrero learned during an extended visit to South America in 2017.

    While the name recalls Alma Cebiche + Bar, the restaurant Guerrero briefly operated in the Energy Corridor, both the environment and menu will be different. In terms of atmosphere and experience, the chef wants to compete with establishments such as MAD and Roka Akor, and the dishes will be different than anything Guerrero has served before.

    “I would say my whole menu, you can’t find it anywhere else in Houston,” Guerrero tells CultureMap. “It’s going to be something different. We have items that to a normal person won’t make sense, but you try it and it’s something different. I’m excited about it.”

    Asked for specifics, Guerrero mentions a dish built around grilled cauliflower with pureed sweet plantains, jalapeno chips, and a currant puree. He’ll also serve his signature raw dishes such as ceviches and tiraditos, as well as raw and baked oysters. Alma will use locally-sourced pork from Black Hill Meats and grass-fed beef from Argentina. Other dishes will incorporate Nikkei flavors, the buzzy Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine that's a major draw at the Politan Row food hall.

    “Everything’s going to be shareable. They’re not composed dishes,” Guerrero says. “I would like to create my own things for mixing different textures and flavors, just put it on a plate like art.”

    The beverage options will center around South American wines and a menu of 14 house cocktails that are inspired by South American and Mexican classics.

    Guerrero adds that he’s also looking for new investors and a new location for Andes Cafe. The South American comfort food restaurant earned significant acclaim during its almost six-year run, and the chef says he thinks it’s still a viable concept. Still, his attention is firmly on Alma.

    “I think this is going to be the last shot for me as a chef. I’m putting a lot of effort into this,” he says. “We’ve practiced for two months. We’re ready. We’ll see what happens.”

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    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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