In the early '90s, Gemma Kahng was the toast of the fashion world — Madonna wore a rumpless lavender romper she designed in an infamous Vanity Fair photo shoot in 1992. And, nearly as quickly, Kahng's career was toast as her fashion business expanded too fast, lost its cachet and crumpled.

But now, in the words of Fashion Houston creative director Neal Hamil, Kahng is the "comeback kid."

Fashion Houston organizers and Tootsies were so impressed with Kahng, who revived her namesake line last year, that they recently lured her to the Bayou City to show her latest collection.

"To come to a city like Houston by invitation to put on a show and having the audience look at my new look is just so rewarding," she said soon after her turn on the catwalk ended. "I cannot tell you how happy I am. It's great. And they seem to appreciate what I do."

Kahng had previously shown the collection in a presentation during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York a few months ago, but when she was invited to Fashion Houston, she whipped up additional designs.

"I added a lot of things," she said. "When you are doing a one-man show you want it to be different. I wanted to be aware of how they were looking (on the runway) and at the same time be more edgy."

Her collection includes body-baring vests and short shorts made of floral appliques, see-through tulle dresses and coats made of strips of leather. For the Houston show she created flowing gowns in shades of hot pink with the floral applique technique that she is known for.

"You start with one idea and it just grows and grows in an organic way," Kahng said.

Her whimsical, revealing designs had some on the front row looking at runway show in bemusement, but the designer says her looks aren't meant to be worn from head-to-toe.

"I would like it if they wear a piece and blend in with their existing wardrobe and make it their own. I think that would make more sense to me. If they like to follow head-to-toe from one designer, that's fine, too. But I think it's very important for a woman to have her own style."

Kahng says she has learned a lot from her previous fashion mistakes and doesn't plan to repeat them.

"This time I am doing everything the right way," she said. "There are many departments to make a fashion company successful — obviously the sales, PR, finance and production and design. They are all very, very different. And I try to focus on all of them evenly.

"Maybe in the past I focused on one and not enough on the other. To make a fashion company successful it's about having the right team. And I have paid a lot of attention to bringing in the right team to make this company successful."

"So you're having fun?" she is asked.

"Yes," she replied. "I was watching the show (backstage) on the video and it was just so perfect. It was exactly what I was hoping for."