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    Time traveler

    Ralph Lauren's mod world: Kicky collection has a Carnaby Street vibe

    Clifford Pugh
    Sep 14, 2013 | 10:40 am

    NEW YORK — In recent seasons, Ralph Lauren has visited Downton Abbey and exotic 1930s China as inspiration for his luxe runway line-up. For spring 2014, he travels to London, circa the swingin' '60s, for a collection that has a definite Carnaby Street vibe.

    But Austin Powers, it's not.

    While the iconic 73-year-old designer references some of the most obvious themes of the era — bold colors, geometric prints, short dresses, chunky heels, striped or checked suits, jaunty newsboy caps — he does in it in his own tasteful way.

    For spring 2014, Lauren travels to London, circa the swingin' '60s. But Austin Powers, it's not.

    The first third of the collection is all black and white as models walk to the John Lennon song, "Nobody Told Me," with the refrain, "Strange days, indeed." Lauren leads off with a model in a black long-sleeved mini with a white collar worn with black knee socks and black patent Mary Janes, and follows with more mini dresses, trenchcoats and jackets in stripes, florals and a Greek key pattern.

    Lauren always does a bit of gender-bending with menswear looks; this time a three-piece black-and-white tattersall jacket, vest and slacks, with white shirt and floral tie, looks particularly snappy.

    Then the collection dramatically switches gears with a series of bold, short, neon mini-dresses in yellow, green, blue, orange and red, often with matching purse and shoes. The wild colors are so bright that the models have to wear shades.

    Lauren traditionally closes his collection with a series of smashing evening gowns — this time in bold, unadorned colors (the closer, a strapless red gown with a floor-length cape, is a real entrance-maker) and off-white shades. For the woman who is not into a gown, he offers an off-white jumpsuit with a plunging neckline, several elegant evening tuxedos and a Nehru jacket that manages to look surprisingly stylish.

    Ralph Lauren black-and-white leather trenchcoat, black patent leather mini-skirt.

    Fashion Week spring summer 2014 Ralph Lauren Collection Spring 2014 Look 08
    Photo courtesy of Ralph Lauren Collection
    Ralph Lauren black-and-white leather trenchcoat, black patent leather mini-skirt.
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    series/htx-clifford-on-the-catwalk-2013-1
    news/fashion

    Fashion Houston Preview

    Bibhu Mohapatra looks to new beginnings with graceful collection

    Clifford Pugh
    Nov 10, 2013 | 2:55 pm
    Bibhu Mohapatra looks to new beginnings with graceful collection
    Photo courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra
    Bibhu Mohapatra onyx fracture faille gown with draped skirt.

    NEW YORK — As design director at J. Mendel for a decade, Bibhu Mohapatra honed the art of glamour. Since venturing out on his own four years ago, he has built a reputation for creating statement-making evening gowns and polished day dresses.

    For his spring 2014 collection, Mohapatra looked to transformation, citing his good friend, longtime New York City Ballet principal dancer Wendy Whelan's transition into modern dance. (She debuted Restless Creature at Jacob's Pillow last summer.) "I liked that idea of a new beginning," he told style.com.

    The collection veers from delicate pleating techniques in pastel gowns to fractured patterns that look like cracked stones for a more dissonant attitude. A series of dresses, blouses and gowns dotted with embroidered baby tulips emit a 3-D effect while vibrant digital prints of a a fire-red tree flower called the palash in Mohapatra's native India show up throughout the collection in various colors that herald the arrival of spring.

    Mohapatra will show his collection at Fashion Houston on Wednesday (Nov. 13) at the Wortham Center. He will also make a personal appearance at Elizabeth Anthony-Esther Wolf on Nov. 14 from 11 a.m. until 4 p.m.

    Bibhu Mohapatra onyx fracture faille gown with draped skirt.

    Bibhu Mohapatra gown spring collection 2014
    Photo courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra
    Bibhu Mohapatra onyx fracture faille gown with draped skirt.
    unspecified
    series/htx-clifford-on-the-catwalk-2013-1
    news/fashion
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