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    Oscar's New Look

    Everything's coming up roses for new designers at Oscar de la Renta

    Clifford Pugh
    Mar 6, 2017 | 4:58 pm

    Even though Oscar de la Renta handpicked his successor, the brand, which is favorite of Texas society women, seemed to lose some snap after his death in 2014 when former Nina Ricci designer Peter Copping assumed the top job. While de la Renta gowns are still among the favorites at the big Houston balls, increasingly best-dressed gala goers have turned to such designers as Naeem Khan, Monique Lhuillier, Marchesa, and Christian Siriano.

    The de la Renta team seemed to recognize the problem by luring back designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia as co-creative directors. The duo had worked under de la Renta — Kim was there for 12 years, including a stint as design director; Garcia for six years — before leaving to launch a well-received label called Monse. Kim also joined Carolina Herrera as senior vice president for design in 2015 after being passed over for the top job at de la Renta. When she announced her return, Herrera sued, noting Kim had signed an agreement not to work for any direct competitors for six months after leaving the company.

    A New York judge eventually sided with Kim, making the debut of the de la Renta fall collection at New York Fashion Week one of the most highly anticipated and most dramatic shows.

    While the duo captured some of the magic of the de la Renta label with their first collection, the general consensus is they're not there yet.The designer's "excess-is-best" philosophy seemed missing as the new designers concentrated on '50s-looking ankle-length dresses with poufy skirts, mundane trouser and top combos in contrasting neon shades, and underwhelming basic black tuxedos for nighttime wear. And there wasn't a single wow-inducing gown, although a shiny red evening gown with a pointy bustline came close.

    However, some exciting looks gave a hint of what might be in store in the future under the new regime. A black-and-white fur skirt with an asymmetrical black top exuded the de la Renta DNA while a floral red and silver pants ensemble with a bodice overflowing with red flowers indicates that, indeed, everything is coming up roses at the fashion house — or may be soon.

    Oscar de la Renta floral pants ensemble featuring bodice with red flowers.

    Oscar de la Renta fall 2017 collection look 11
      
    Photo courtesy of Oscar de la Renta
    Oscar de la Renta floral pants ensemble featuring bodice with red flowers.
    new-york-fashion-week
    series/ny-fashion-week-fall-2017-houston
    news/fashion

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    Escada Fall 2017

    Escada salutes Hitchcock heroines in luxe fall collection that emphasizes 'effortless dressing'

    Clifford Pugh
    Apr 5, 2017 | 2:04 pm
    Escada salutes Hitchcock heroines in luxe fall collection that emphasizes 'effortless dressing'
    Photo courtesy of Escada
    Escada red tuxedo with black lapels.

    With former Calvin Klein executive Iris Epple-Righi as the new CEO at Escada, the German luxury label is returning to its roots with versatile looks for women with busy lifestyles. "It's really about effortless dressing," Escada exec Lauren Mirynowski said during a preview of the fall collection at the brand's showroom during New York Fashion Week.

    The first collection since the departure of longtime fashion director Daniel Wingate salutes the heroines of Hitchcock movies, with chic dresses in icy blue or purple shades, smart suits in soft, elegant shapes, elephant print blouses signifying a sign of good luck, and jackets with a removable cowl or detachable fur collar so the look can be dressed up or dressed down, depending on the occasion.

    While the collection has an elevated tone — Swarovski crystals dot the necklines of some looks and capes are dotted with mink mini pom-poms — it's also has an air of practicality for the business-minded executive. Silhouettes are roomier, fur trims and linings can be removed for less frigid weather (or a toned down look), and tailored pants suits with knitwear blouses come with jackets that can be taken off when office temperatures rise.

    For the women who might want to veer toward an edgier look for evening, the collection offers tuxedo dressing with jackets in red or white with contrasting black lapels, and slacks.

    The Escada fall collection can be viewed in Houston at Elizabeth Anthony Thursday through Saturday (April 6-8).

    Escada red tuxedo with black lapels.

    Escada fall 2017 red tuxedo with black lapels
      
    Photo courtesy of Escada
    Escada red tuxedo with black lapels.
    new-york-fashion-week
    series/ny-fashion-week-fall-2017-houston
    news/fashion
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