The People of the City
Houston's revamped farmers market braves the chill with new vendors
It may have been a rainy and chilly morning, the kind that Houstonians often feel is the southern version of a snow day, but the pseudo-inclement weather did not stop Urban Harvest vendors and shoppers from partaking in Harvest's first farmers market at Highland Village.
The previous management resigned, so the folks at Urban Harvest had little time to come in and pick up the pieces, moving the time strategically to Sundays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. as to not compete with their established markets at Eastside on Saturday mornings and Discovery Green on Sunday afternoons.
Tucked away behind JoS. A. Bank and Starbucks on Suffolk just south of Westheimer, this cozy and surprisingly active commingling of buyers and sellers, dressed in the winter best, exemplified the spirit of supporting local, despite the cold.
Although Urban Harvest administrators were hoping for about 20 vendors, 12 showed with an array of fresh produce and handcrafted items. So perhaps the weather did slow them down a tiny bit. But in two months, they plan to double that number to 40.
I was in my gym shorts. In an attempt not to break my resolution (intension) to be more active this year, I only intended to stay for a little while. But as the conversation grew livelier, I ended up ignoring the physical temperature in favor of learning more about what the market had to offer and the people behind it.
The location is perfect, encouraging lots of pedestrian traffic from the neighboring residential areas.
“The only time we have been closed is that weekend after Hurricane Ike,” Mark Bowen, executive director, explained. Bundled with a down jacket and a warm smile, Mark greeted everyone with enthusiasm.
“You have to meet Gita,” Mark says. And with that, I make my turns talking to some of the vendors and learning what is new, exciting and delicious in the vicinity.
Gita Vanwoerden has been a part of the Urban Harvest family for a long time, 20 years recalls Bowen, and heads a rather unique operation in Cat Spring, near Bellville. Showing off some of her heirloom offerings, she explains that Animal Farm does not only provide good healthy eats, but is an off-the-grid Permaculture Center: Sustainable and self-sufficient.
The dragon carrots, purple all the way through, are a gorgeous contrast to the crème de light carrots. The Chioggia beets feature white descending spirals and are beautifully fragrant, raw or cooked. The collard greens are picture perfect and can serve as a great envelope for green wraps. Spread a little hummus, your favorite vegetables, roll and avoid the bread, if you must.
To feed your carb addiction, Angela’s Oven is on the scene with its infamous and wicked sourdough among other baked goodies like the cranberry walnut boule and French pastries.
This is definitely not your supermarket sourdough, hearty, flavorful and permeating the air with an inviting I-must-eat-this-now aroma. The enticing display includes golden baguettes, rich brioche and fragrant rosemary garlic loafs.
“Thirty percent of our business is directly related to Urban Harvest,” Jerry Shawn, baker, explains with passion. “But with all true farmers markets, there is a little education needed. Here, you will find things that are truly local, either made here or grown here.”
Equally as lively is Al Marcus from the Grateful Bread & Other Good Things. Showcasing a wide array of prepared foods, it is the homemade artisan vanilla that’s strained, not filtered, that catches my attention.
“It takes about six months to make,” Al says. “We make it by rough chopping the vanilla bean and soaking it in Dripping Springs vodka. By straining rather than filtering, you keep more of the flavor and color in the extract.”
Sunny and mellow yellow, their lemon curd, made from Meyer lemons literally picked the Friday prior, wakes one up with a careful balance of sweet and tangy notes. I can't help breakout a smile. Their spicy ketchup, with a hint of red roasted pepper is deep and complex, almost shameful to eat with just French fries, but I can easily get over that.
Their kitchen is in the Heights.
For school bus driver Debbie Tubb, what started as a mild allergy to commercially produced soaps turned into a lucrative business made possible by farmers markets like this one.
“Making goat’s milks soap is just like baking a cake,” Tubb said. “It takes between 24 to 48 hours to make followed by about three to four weeks to cure. I get my goat’s milk from Vickie McGaugh in Cleveland, Texas. It’s a clean operation with very happy goats.”
Now selling her products under The Herbal Goat label, Tubb attributes her success to the support and exposure she received from Urban Harvest. Almost all her revenue comes from the markets.
The Highland Village Farmers Market will take place, rain or shine, every Sunday from 9 a.m.–1 p.m., cooking demos and lively people included. Will you be there?