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    we are the champions

    Nancy’s Hustle all-stars champion an innovative new EaDo restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 17, 2020 | 3:15 pm

    The team behind Nancy’s Hustle has unveiled their next project. Tiny Champions opened for service last weekend at 2617 McKinney St.

    Led by its partners, chef Jason Vaughan, beverage specialist Sean Jensen, and pastry chef Julia Doran, the restaurant serves pizza and pasta along with, in Doran’s words,”crunchy and acidic vegetables dishes, small proteins, and some heartier dishes for gluten-free folks or people not wanting something carb-heavy.”

    Sure to be controversial is the restaurant’s decision to serve a pizza topped with pineapple.

    “We know pineapples are not local,” Doran writes in an email. “But when done right (and I would claim we do it right) they are great on a pizza, especially with speck and fresh jalapeño. And if you don’t like it, we've got other great pizzas to order.”

    Indeed they do. Diners will find pies topped with kale and Swiss chard, sausage and peppers, and a cheese-less tomato pie topped with anchovies. A simple pie with mozzarella and parmesan provides a platform for a number of other toppings, including pepperoni, fennel sausage, roasted onions, and mixed olives.

    For dessert, Doran has created a selection of different ice creams and sorbets, including a chocolate sorbet sundae with whipped labneh and carrot sherbet topped with toasted meringue and peptias. “Fundamentally, no matter how many meals I’ve had in my life, all I want most of the time is pizza and ice cream,” Doran writes.

    Sommelier Bridget Paliwoda (Theodore Rex, The Annie Cafe) and bar manager Tony Lamperti (Two Headed Dog) worked with Jensen to create a beverage program built around natural wines, cider, and cocktails. Three non-alcoholic cocktails, a selection of teas, and a serious root beer provide options for those who choose not to imbibe.

    All that eating and drinking takes places in a room that features an open kitchen, an eclectic mix of art, and a banging soundtrack. Tiny Champions will also open its patio this week, which will roughly double its seating capacity and provide space for those concerned about dining indoors.

    The trio have assembled a talented front of house team that includes general manager Caitlin Griffith (Rosie Cannonball) and bartender Kristine Nguyen, who returns to the Nancy’s family after working for Cantina Barba. Doran notes the kitchen crew is equally strong, name checking Martin Long as “the baddest dishwasher (aka scrub lord) in the game right now.”

    Asked about the culture they’ve created that allows them to attract and keep so much talent, Doran doesn’t mince words.

    “We value people as individuals, encourage them to fly whatever flag they want to, and have done a pretty good job weeding out anyone not pulling their weight, has a shitty attitude, or partakes in regressive bro-y kitchen bullshit. Our team is great and better for it,” she writes.

    Since it opened in 2017, Nancy’s Hustle has attracted nearly universal praise from critics and diners. It earned a spot on Esquire magazine's "Best Restaurants of the Decade" list, a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for Vaughan, and just about CultureMap Tastemaker Award it could earn, including pastry chef of the year for Doran.

    All that success means Tiny Champions opens with high expectations, but any restaurant willing to serve pineapple on pizza is ready to make a statement.

    Kale and Swiss chard pizza.

    Tiny Champions kale pizza
    Photo by Chelsea Thomas
    Kale and Swiss chard pizza.
    openingsnews-you-can-eatpizza
    news/restaurants-bars

    Roll With It

    9 Houston restaurants luring diners with fluffy, buttery dinner rolls

    Brianna McClane
    Apr 30, 2026 | 10:30 am
    The Green Room dinner rolls
    Photo by Bear Media Co
    At the Green Room, diners can opt for a side of caviar to elevate the dinner rolls.

    Dinner rolls are having a moment in Houston.

    Perhaps it's because comfort food is necessary when life can feel so chaotic, or that ordering a basket of rolls for the table is more financially approachable than, say, a seafood tower — whatever the reason, rolls are back on the menu at some of the city's most exciting restaurants.

    At Latuli, the Memorial restaurant by chef Bryan Caswell and Allison Knight, the bread service consists of house yeast rolls with jalapeño and roasted poblano jelly, alongside a gruyère corn bread with whipped sorghum butter.

    “It’s our No. 1 seller every day, which is surprising given all the gluten-free diets and GLP-1 trends right now—it’s almost like its power is trend-immune,” Caswell tells CultureMap.

    The same is true at Fielding’s Steak, where the restaurant’s in-house bakery delivers brioche dinner rolls served with cultured butter, honey, and sea salt from Galveston.

    “Guests have always loved fresh-baked bread, even during the time when it was frowned upon,” CEO Cary Attar says.

    Dustin Teague, executive chef and co-owner of Relish Restaurant & Bar, recalls when free bread service was a constant on tables around town throughout the majority of his industry experience.

    “That was back in the good old days when rent, insurance, labor, and cost of goods were at reasonable numbers,” Teague says. “Now we don’t have any room for anything free but we still want to have it available for guests.”

    The Parker House rolls at Relish are accompanied by compound butters, with the current creation featuring a garlic confit, fresh herbs, and red pepper flakes.

    “Serving bread signifies welcoming guests into a home or establishment, hence the term ‘breaking bread.’ So it’s a must for any upscale dining experience,” Teague says.

    The cowboy butter rolls at western-themed restaurant Long Weekend are a no-brainer pairing on a menu with hearty fare like hickory-smoked quail and a 24-ounce porterhouse. It’s also an easy order for the family-focused restaurant that is likely to have tiny, pickier eaters as patrons.

    "We took a Texas staple and elevated it with duck fat, our house sourdough starter, and locally sourced Kelley’s Honey,” executive chef German Mosquera says.

    At Star Rover, every entree is served with a basket of milk rolls, along with salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want to participate in the “I Ate the 76'er” challenge have to consume a 76-ounce steak and the sides — yes, including rolls — in under an hour.

    “They are your fairly standard buttermilk yeast rolls,” executive chef Bobby Matos says. “We serve them because they’re delicious and a bit of a nod to Texas Roadhouse and that kind of vibe.”

    Speaking of Texas Roadhouse, the chain restaurant's complimentary rolls helped propel its rise to America's highest-grossing casual dining restaurant. The fluffy buns are baked every five minutes, enticing diners with shiny butter-basted tops and cinnamon butter that's made in house.

    The dinner rolls at surf-and-turf destination Truluck’s emerge from the kitchen as pull-aparts — brushed with butter and finished with a hefty dusting of parmesan.

    The dinner rolls at The Green Room undergo an overnight bulk fermentation process. The next day, the dough is rolled and portioned by hand before resting and proofing at room temperature for four hours, then slid into the oven.

    The newly opened 26-seat restaurant adds daily butters to the experience, with both a sorghum-and-sea salt butter, and a charred scallion butter currently in rotation. To make the dish even more luxurious, diners can add a caviar supplement to the bread service.

    Chef and owner Shawn Gawle offers another elevated version of the dinner roll at Camaraderie. Here, the 2026 James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas has put his pastry expertise on display with pain au lait, which involves laminating together a regular Japanese milk bread with a purple sweet potato variation into a delicate, colorful roll.

    “We wanted something where we could show value, substance and technique, but it also completes the meal,” Gawle says. “To share a meal with warm bread and butter is a universal, comforting experience.”

    The Green Room dinner rolls

    Photo by Bear Media Co

    At the Green Room, diners can opt for a side of caviar to elevate the dinner rolls.

    news-you-can-eatdinner rollshouston restaurants
    news/restaurants-bars
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