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    What's Eric Eating Episode 75

    A Houston chef's Wild ride to the top, plus first tastes of 2 hot spots

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 15, 2018 | 3:45 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Jane Wild of The Dunlavy joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss her career. Prior to assuming her current role, Wild spent several years working for Whole Foods Market in both Chicago and Portland. A desire to be closer to family brought her to Texas, where she opened Jane & John Dough cafe in Tomball. She signed on with The Dunlavy in March and quickly rose to executive chef.

    Wild has put her stamp on the menu by sourcing more ingredients locally and improving the bread options by buying from Bread Man Baking Co. Some of those loaves get used in new sandwiches, which prompts Sandler to ask the chef to explain her theory about what makes for a good one.

    "First of all, it starts with great bread," Wild says, as she explains what she likes about Bread Man. "We source all of our meats locally and we roast them in house. The porchetta we marinate with fennel pollen and soy sauce; then we roast that until the chicharrones is crunchy. Then, we have West Coast hazelnuts and parsley and an amazing caper mayonnaise. The sandwich starts with the bread and then just coming together with creativity (and) a great spread. Tomatoes can be hit or miss as far as flavor goes. We marinate each slice and roast it to bring out the most intense flavor we can. Then, I love the sweetness of caramelized onions. We throw that on our sandwiches as well."

    Prior to Wild joining the show, Sandler and co-host Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include chefs Lyle Bento and Maurizio Ferrarese finding new homes at Star Fish and the Hotel Granduca, respectively, Finn Hall's opening date, and California-based restaurant Mendocino Farms' plans to arrive in Houston. In the restaurants of the week segment, the hosts share some first impressions of Diana American Grill and B.B. Lemon.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

    B.B. Lemon is the restaurant of the week.

    BB Lemon fried chicken sandwich
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam
    B.B. Lemon is the restaurant of the week.
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    Bernadine's Revived?

    Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 4, 2026 | 9:01 am
    Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
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    Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

    If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

    “I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

    Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

    The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

    Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

    The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

    “I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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