This week something amazing happened that I didn’t see coming. Well, not exactly, I should say.
Last year at Southern Smoke’s Decanted fundraiser, we auctioned off a night at our house where I would make snacks and all the master sommeliers in Houston would bring a bottle that meant something special to them. Did I ever think all seven of Houston’s master sommeliers would be able to find one night that they would all be available? Not really, because I know how busy they all are.
Then the day came, and the stars aligned perfectly — it happened! Two of them may have flown in that day — including one who landed an hour before the event after an 9-hour flight home — but it happened, and it was magical. Let me drop some tidbits of information about how special this was.
According to Wikipedia, here is what it takes to become a Master Sommelier.
Those who wish to take the Master Sommelier exam must have passed the Advanced exam, be invited or recommended to sit the exam, and have typically worked in the industry for at least 10 years. The exam covers all aspects of the world and industry of wine, beer, spirits, cocktails, and hospitality from a business, service and philosophical approach. The three part, oral exam consists of theory (must be passed before taking the other two parts), blind tasting six wines before a panel, and service; the three sections do not need be attempted at once.
The typical pass rate at the Master Sommelier exam is around 3–8 percent of applicants; in some instances as few as 1 in 70 have succeeded . . . Only 14 people have ever passed the Master level on the first try.
Currently there are 279 Master Sommeliers in the world, and seven work and live right here in Houston. Why is that? You are the reason! Houstonians drink wine, quite a bit of it actually. From working in distribution, running restaurant programs, education and sales to owning a winery, there is a lot for an MS to do here.
I have cooked at a lot of dinners with amazing chefs each doing a course, and those events are magical. This event was similar in thought process, since each one of these amazing people brought something to the party that meant something to them.
There are very few times that you get seven people at the top of their chosen careers that open up their thoughts, hearts, and cellars to find one bottle that means something emotional to them. You don’t get seven of the greatest doctors in the world to look at you all at the same time when you have a cold. Seven of the greatest NBA players in the world to play Horse with you in the backyard, or seven of the greatest singers to sing you a lullaby at night.
But that greatness happened, and I saw it, tasted it, and got to cook for it. They came together not just for a fun night. They all believe in the work that the Southern Smoke Foundation is doing to help change the food and beverage industry. I want to thank the lovely couple that purchased this lot for their belief in the organization because, without them, this would not have happened.
You wanna know what wines these sommeliers brought to dinner? My wife Lindsey recorded every one of them describing what they brought, and then she transcribed it because she is amazing and quite frankly, I’m just not that talented.
Let’s be honest. I write these article in the Notes App on my phone because I don’t own or know how to use a computer. Please enjoy, and, while you’re reading, understand the commitment and the knowledge that these folks have. Let’s cheer on those that are on the path to achieve this goal as well.
Let your next sommelier guide you and see what your night turns into. I bet it’s magical.
Guy Stout: Stout Cabernet 2014 and Kyla
“It’s my wine. 2014 was a great vintage. We only did a few magnums, and I wanted to share with our friends. I also brought Kyla, which is the swan song from Stout Vineyards in Blanco, Texas. This was the last vintage from my vineyard of 20 years. We made a pet-nat. It’s Syrah and Tempranillo. It means a lot to me — this is the last wine that we made from our vineyard before we invested in Napa and started the Stout Napa project.”
Julie Dalton: Donnhoff Dellchen 2016 GG
“Riesling is my reason, and I thought it would be fun to show why it should be everyone’s reason. People don’t realize how delicious dry Riesling is, and I thought it would be a cool opportunity — looking at the menu with the pork and the duck and the cheeses — all of these salty, rich things want an explosion of acidity and brightness. That’s what dry Riesling does. Dry Riesling is the perfect way to incorporate an aria into any symphony of food.”
Keith Goldston: 2013 Olivier Bernstein Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France
“What I brought tonight was a little red Burgundy because when in doubt, you might as well go for the heartbreaker grape, Pinot Noir. Olivier Bernstein is this rockstar in Burgundy who doesn’t make many wines, came in from the outside, and you just don’t see them. We happened to have a 2013 magnum hanging out, and it seemed like the perfect night for it.”
Brandon Kerne: St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard Haute Densite Hubert Lamy 2021, 1989 Chateau Pape Clement, 2022 Joannes Violot-Guillemard Aux Clous, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, France
“I brought St Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard because everybody loves them some reductive blended chardonnay right now. We needed enough to go around, so always bring a magnum! And then the 89 Pape Clement is old Bordeaux we source directly from the estate, top vintage, top estate, and almost 40 years old now. This Violot-Guilleard is something we just got in, something that I found in Burgundy that I spent two years trying to bring in. It just landed, so I wanted to share with my friends.”
Steven McDonald: 2012 Ca' Brusa Bricco San Pietro Vigna d'Vai
“I brought the Ca’ Brusa Barolo Riserva. Why? Because I’m pretty much on brand with my love of the Nebbiolo grape. This is a great example of one of the top riservas of the Monforte region of Barolo. It’s drinking great, and everything is better in a magnum.”
Jack Mason: Guilio Ferrari 2002
“This is Guilio Ferrari, the top wine of Ferrari in Trentodoc in Trentino, Italy. This is 100 percent Chardonnay aged over 10 years on the lees. This was ’02 but disgorged in ’15 in magnum. I love Trentodoc, because it’s got the alpine freshness and absolutely delicious.”
June Rodil: 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets and Champagne Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion’ 2013
“I brought two bottles because everyone else brought magnums, and I wanted to be equal! First bottle is 2007 Albert Morot Beaune Les Marconnets. It’s not really about the producer — it’s more about the vintage for me. It’s ’07, and it’s been sitting in my cellar so I wanted to share it. Also, the first year I went to Burgundy was in 2010, and we were drinking ‘07s. And it was really special. Also because critics poopooed on this year, and they were totally wrong! This is fabulous and drinking really well! I wouldn’t hold it anymore — I would drink it now.
Second, in honor of one of the greatest ladies in wine of all time, Martine was an importer. May she ever rest in peace. She just passed away. She imported this wine. When she was importing, it was the first time I ever had this wine. Diebolt-Vallois 'Fleur de Passion.' 100 percent Chardonnay. Delicious. So good! 2013 Vintage. Drop the mic! One of the best tête de cuvée from an independent producer.”
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What wine would you bring to a dinner at Chris's house? Tell Chris via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.
Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.
