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    What's Eric Eating Episode 69

    Houston pitmaster dishes on big move, plus first taste of new multi-course menu

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 4, 2018 | 2:24 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Wesley Jurena joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Pappa Charlies Barbeque, his barbecue joint that relocated from a space in EaDo to being part of Cypress Trail Hideout, a bar and restaurant that opened earlier this year. Jurena begins by explaining how an interest in making barbecue during his service as an Army Ranger eventually led him to the competition circuit and, eventually, a food trailer. CultureMap first profiled Pappa Charlies in 2014 when Jurena had established a solid reputation for his cooking.

     

     

     

    While Jurena received some accolades for his cooking from the mainstream food media, he's fallen a bit off the radar. Sandler asks if he misses being in the spotlight.

     

    "Obviously, I'm competitive. I'd like to sit at the cool kids' table again. But at the end of the day, there's a lot of restaurateurs in this city that have never been sitting at the cool kids' table," Jurena says. After noting that the quality of the barbecue has improved now that he's used to the increased demand at Cypress Trail Station, he adds, "Again, I'm at a different place. I can say that I was there and I did it. Obviously, you'd like to have consistency. You'd like to have that buzz and be on those lists every year. If I'm not, the cash register's ringing. We're making money. . . Whatever happens, Eric, I'm ok."

     

    Prior to Jurena joining the show, Sandler and co-host Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Chronicle critic Alison Cook's list of Houston's top 100 restaurants, Tenfold Coffee's plans to open a new roastery and cafe in the Heights, and a recap of some of their favorite bites from Southern Smoke. In the restaurants of the week segment, the duo rave about their experience at Kitchen 713, where chefs James Haywood and Ross Coleman recently introduced a four-course menu inspired by the flavors of West Africa.

     

     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     
     
     
     View this post on Instagram
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     Got a sneak peek at @kitchen_713’s new four-course menu that’s inspired by West Africa. If the Ghanaian fried chicken isn’t the best in Houston, then I want to taste what is.

     

    A post shared by ericsandler (@ericsandler) on

     

    Sep 25, 2018 at 8:32pm PDT

     
     
     

    In addition, they discuss their separate experiences trying the new omakase menu at Aqui. The Montrose restaurant recently hired former Uchi sushi chef Yoshi Katsuyama, who along with chef-owner Paul Qui and chef de cuisine Jillian Bartolome, leads diners on a 18-plus course tasting menu with beverage pairings chosen by bar manager Leslie Ross Krockenberger.

     

    ---
     
     Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on iTunes or Google Play. Listen to it every Saturday at 11 am on SportsMap 94.1.

    Pappa Charlies recently relocated to Cypress Trail Hideout.

    Pappa Charlies Barbeque Cypress Trail Hideout
      
    Cypress Trail Hideout/Facebook
    Pappa Charlies recently relocated to Cypress Trail Hideout.
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    What's Eric Eating Episode 476

    Award-winning Houston chef dishes on season 4 of hit show The Bear

    CultureMap Staff
    Jul 15, 2025 | 6:00 am
    The Bear cast photo
    The Bear/Facebook
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    On the most recent episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Justin Yu joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss season four of The Bear, the FX series set in a Chicago restaurant. It’s become an annual tradition for the two men.

    (Spoilers ahead for all episodes of season four of The Bear.)



    In season four, which debuted on June 25, the show’s eponymous restaurant is struggling to find its footing after a review in the Chicago Tribune criticized the inconsistencies of chef Carmy Berzatto’s constantly-changing menu. The stressful environment leads chef de cuisine Sydney Adamu to contemplate leaving for a new restaurant. Yu relates to the other chef’s desire to hire Sydney away from The Bear.

    “This constantly happens in the restaurant business. We become both friends with and fans of people working under other people. You envision opening something new and having that person work for me. How do we get them to move over,” Yu says. “The ability to create is one thing. Money is a big thing. The promise of work-life balance is one thing. Those are ways to get people to move from one place to another.”

    The duo also take up the topic of sous chef Tina Marrero’s struggles to get the timing down on the pasta course that’s part of The Bear’s tasting menu. Sandler asks Yu about encouraging cooks to improve their skills

    “It’s trust but also training and the ability to have them understand what each dish means, the way it should taste and why, and how fast or slow it should go. A long time ago when we were being trained, we were told to cook the food and not given a reason for why it should be done that way. Whereas, we try our very best these days to explain the reasoning behind having a dish with fewer components so it can be plated up more quickly to get another turn on a table.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear Yu’s thoughts on Carmy’s decision to step away from The Bear. He also provides an update on some big changes come to the menu at Theodore Rex, his restaurant in downtown Houston’s Warehouse District that earned a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

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