New Downtown Sports Bar

A sports bar with good food? New downtown spot goes beyond the usual pub grub to South Africa

The latest addition to downtown's bar and restaurant scene is The Springbok, a South African-inspired rugby-themed sports bar. The product of Los Angeles transplants chef Seth Greenburg and owner Peter Walker, Springbok made an initial splash as a World Cup-watching hotspot but only rolled out its full food menu recently.

Diners who might be expecting wings and burgers will be surprised by what they find, because Springbok's menu goes far beyond traditional pub grub — or even traditional South African food.

Greenburg brings a French pedigree to the menu thanks to stints at L'Orangerie, in Los Angeles and Cuisine Français in Chicago, both with two-star Michelin chef Gilles Epié. It's Greenburg's experience that sets Houston's Springbok apart from the Los Angeles original.

Diners who might be expecting wings and burgers will be surprised by what they find, because Springbok's menu goes far beyond pub grub.

"In LA it feels more like a pub that serves food, good food," Greenburg tells CultureMap. "Whereas here we are trying to be more of a pub that has fantastic food. . . . If I were to come in here I would expect a burger or some wings, but if I get what I’m getting I’d be pleasantly surprised."

What do diners get? South African specialties like chicken sosaties, a housemade sausage served with jalapeno-infused pineapple peppadoo, and more refined fare like an asparagus salad served with a sous vide egg and South African beef jerky.

"There’s a couple of things that have a traditional name. I’m not trying to bastardize this cuisine, just trying to update it," Greenburg says.

He cites his take on the traditional burwurst as one example. Known in South Africa as a "burry," the Springbok version is served on a Mexican bolillo roll and topped with Shiner Bock mustard. "Definitely not a traditional South African garnish," Greenburg concedes, "but it's made to appeal to today's diner."

Local lamb and Southern Star Buried Hatchet stout show up in another recipe, but Greenburg says he'll only use local ingredients "when it's better. We're not going local just for the sake of local."

Greenburg is still learning the differences between Houstonians and Angelenos. A dish of oxtail in red curry that was pretty mild during an initial visit has already been punched up with more heat, but diners are responding well to a slightly funky chicken liver mousse. PEI mussels steamed in Thai basil curry, hangar steak basted with smoked butter and crispy pork belly wrapped in thin strips of bread are other dishes that deliver Greenburg's take on flavorful, hearty fare that goes well with a beer or cocktail.

The Drinks

While Springbok will never compete with neighbor The Flying Saucer in terms of the diversity of its beer list, the restaurant does feature a well-chosen selection of local and national brews. Sommelier Jason Banks is working to source South African wines and beers as well as spirits like Bundaberg rum, which is made in Australia and extremely popular in South Africa.

"We want you to have a craft cocktail, but, if you order a Jack and Coke, no one’s going to look at you like you’re an asshole."

The sports selection will focus on South African favorites like rugby and cricket, but a group can always reserve a TV for whichever game interests them. Of course, once American football season starts, Springbok expects to feature both college and pro games.

Regardless of what people are watching or eating, Greenburg cites the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere Walker created in LA as one of his main goals for the restaurant.

"We want refinement in our food and service, whether there’s a soccer game on or not. It might be my 42-year-old stubbornness, but I think people deserve that. That’s our job," Greenburg says. "We want you to have a craft cocktail, but, if you order a Jack and Coke, no one’s going to look at you like you’re an asshole."

Greenburg says that so far diners are embracing the concept, and he's enjoying Houston. "California sure is pretty, but the opportunity that Texas and Houston provides especially for restaurant and small business owners is terrific," he notes.

"I'm happy to be here just a few years into this boom of contemporary restaurants and bars. It’s a scene that’s growing so quickly. It’s fun to be around for it."

The Springbok is open daily from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Call 832-767-5574 for more information.

This oxtail with yorkshire pudding is one example of Springbok's elevated pub food.

Photo by Jack Thompson

This oxtail with yorkshire pudding is one example of Springbok's elevated pub food.

unspecified

wine guy in NYC

Chris Shepherd reviews the New York Times' newly ranked No. 1 NYC restaurant

Sometimes, the stars just align. That was the case for my wife Lindsey and me on a recent trip to New York City. We were there for one night — one shot to eat somewhere memorable — and somehow landed a reservation at Semma, the Southern Indian restaurant from the team at Unapologetic Foods. And today? It just got named the No. 1 restaurant in New York by The New York Times. Not a bad coincidence.

Here’s how critic Priya Krishna describes it:

New York is teeming with Indian restaurants. Yet before Semma, a deeply personal tribute to the chef Vijay Kumar’s upbringing in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu, the city’s diners had never seen Indian food like this. Punctuated with chiles, coconut and earthy curry leaves, Semma’s flavors are lingering and loud, yet restrained. Its dosa is the best in the city: a crisp specimen that’s heady with fermentation and slicked with ghee and fiery gunpowder spice. Semma altered the course of Indian dining here, and four years on, Mr. Kumar’s food continues to feel fresh.

Photo by Chris Shepherd

The New York Times just named Semma as New York's best restaurant.

We were already buzzing just walking in. The place had that feeling — you know the one. That electric hum that only exists when everything’s in sync. It’s not something you can manufacture or buy — it either exists or it doesn’t. And at Semma, it was there in full force. That warmth, that soul. Like a worn-in blanket you reach for on a cool night.

The menu reads like a love letter to the region. Small, shareable bites to start. Bigger plates for the middle. And then the mains, rounded out with rice and breads. Chef Vijay came out to say hi — his face lit up with pride — and asked if there was anything we wanted to try. We just said, “We’re in your hands.”

The ride began with Paniyaram — crispy rice and lentil dumplings kissed with asafoetida and served with Paatti’s chutney. Then came one of the most unexpected hits of the night: Mulaikattiya Thaniyam — sprouted mung beans with coconut and chili. Light, spicy, refreshing. Those two dishes set the tone: this wasn’t going to be a normal dinner. This was a flavor journey.

View this post on Instagram
A post shared by passtheplateee (@passtheplateee)

Next came the dish you’ve probably seen all over the internet: the Gunpowder Dosa. A lacy, crisp crepe made with rice and lentil flour, stuffed with potato masala and served with three sauces. Straight-up delicious. It landed next to a salad of snow and snap peas with coconut and red onion — clean, cool, and crunchy. Then came tender pieces of braised short rib, rich with black cardamom and Tellicherry pepper. Boom.

We paired it all with a bottle of Matthiasson Chardonnay from the Linda Vista Vineyard in Napa. Steve and Jill Matthiasson are some of my favorite people in wine — smart, thoughtful, and making wines that speak to the land. If you haven’t had one of their bottles yet, go get one. Seriously.

Somewhere in there, there was an amaro break (because why not?), and then the mains started rolling in.

The lobster tail — served over a creamy, coconut milk broth with mustard seed and turmeric — was just as silky and luxurious as it sounds. The roasted lamb chops hit with perfect texture and spice. And the goat biryani? A fitting exclamation point to a meal already full of fireworks. At this point, our tastebuds were in full sensory overload — in the best way.

And just when we thought we were done, out came dessert. One with perfect mango. The other with bright passion fruit. After all the richness and spice, these were exactly what we needed — light, clean, beautiful.

So — is Semma deserving of the No. 1 spot? Yeah. It is. But it’s more than just the food, wine, or cocktails. What sets it apart is heart. It’s clear how much of themselves chef Vijay, Roni, and Chintan put into this restaurant. The passion, the pride, the story — it’s all on the plate.

Thank you, chef. Thank you, Roni. Thank you, Chintan. For one incredible night, you invited us into your world. And we’ll never forget it.

-----

Share your NYC recommendations with Chris via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2 or on YouTube.

news-you-can-eat semma nyc