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    The Final Taste

    The last Feast: Checking out a closing, pioneering Montrose restaurant in its final days

    Clifford Pugh
    By Clifford Pugh
    Jun 10, 2013 | 11:57 am

    I am a restaurant's worst nightmare — a diner with good intentions. I often lament the fact that an interesting establishment is closing but often don't frequent it until it decides to go out of business — and then I rush to make a reservation.

    Alas, there are lot of Houstonians like me, judging from how crowded Feast was over the weekend.

    Even though I had been planning to return to the innovative restaurant on lower Westheimer since chef/owners Richard Knight and James and Meagan Silk announced seven months ago that they would be closing, I only made it there as it counts down its final days. The restaurant, which introduced nose-to-tail dining in Houston, was among the first to credit local suppliers on the menu, and maintained the most innovative menu in the city over the past five years, will close after the last meal is served on Friday (June 14).

    The menu on this past Friday night, as usual, was innovative, with lots of animal body parts not usually found on the menu of most Houston restaurants. Among the intriguing offerings were such starters as pork rillettes, beef heart tartare, fat on toast, and a terrine of pork, lamb, prune and juniper. Main course selections included crispy roasted pork belly, beef tongue with mustard mash and mustard greens, and wild boar with a spiced chocolate and fruit sauce.

    The menu on this past Friday night, as usual, was innovative, with lots of animal body parts not usually found on the menu of most Houston restaurants.

    Having grown up in a half-Lebanese family, I am used to steak tartare (or kibbeh nayyeh, as we called it), but I had never sampled beef heart tartare and was eager to try it. The consistency was much looser — it looked like it had just come out of the meat grinder — but it had an intoxicating flavor that brought out the carnivore in me. Everyone at the table agreed the mix of flavors of terrine worked perfectly together as we gobbled it up.

    The spicy sweetness of the chocolate sauce complemented the meaty texture and taste of the wild boar while the braised shoulder of beef in a rich brown wine sauce was so tender it fell off the bone. A main course of pork ribs, cooked to perfection, came with an order of bubble and squeak, a mix of mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts that caused my friend to exclaim, "Now this is the way to eat Brussels sprouts!"

    The food is so hearty that we each took home part of our main course (the wild boar tasted even better the next day) and no one in our foursome had room for dessert, although the molten chocolate cake and Spotted Dick ( a steamed suet pudding containing dried fruit, served with custard) was tempting.

    Since the restaurant did not renew its liquor license, it's been BYOB since June 3, which certainly kept our tab down. (Dinner was less than $40 each.)

    The crowd was the kind that every restaurant craves — young (the average age at ever table — except for ours — looked under 35) and adventuresome, judging from the many different entrees that floated across the room.

    But the bottom line is that not enough diners frequented the restaurant on a consistent basis, Silk told the Houston Chronicle a few months back. And I must admit, as much as I have enjoyed several meals at Feast since it opened, it's not a place I often think about returning to, particularly during the summer months when I consist on much lighter fare like salads and grilled chicken.

    Yet, the Feast trio were truely ahead of their time, paving the way for new restaurants like Underbelly and Oxheart that have received rapturous reviews. And there's a bit of a silver lining in the closing: Knight is staying in Houston to join forces with Down House's Chris Cusack, Joey Treadway and Benjy Mason on a new restaurant in the Heights that will open later this year or early next year. We bet it will be innovative, too.

    The Silks are heading to Brooklyn. Houston foodies wish them well and owe them a big thanks for broadening the city's culinary scene.

    And if you're a procrastinator, the reservation number is 713-529-7788.

    Feast logo.

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    news you can eat

    Growing national pizza chain will bring halal pies and pastas to Katy

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 17, 2025 | 5:04 pm
    Vocelli Pizza food spread
    Vocelli Pizza/Facebook
    Vocelli Pizza will open its first Houston-area location in March.

    A Pittsburgh pizzeria has set its sights on Houston. Vocelli Pizza will makes it Bayou City debut next year with a location in Katy.

    Scheduled to open in March 2026, the restaurant will be located at 2941 W. Grand Parkway. Although pizza is part of the restaurant’s name, the menu also includes wings, pizza rolls, salads, sandwiches, pasta, and more. Specialty items include mac and cheese pizza, spinach mushroom rolls, and a chicken parmesan sub.

    "We are thrilled to continue our growth into new communities that share our passion for quality, service, and authentic Italian-inspired food," Vocelli Pizza CEO Toni Bianco said in a statement. "Our expansion into Dalton and Houston reflects the strong demand for our brand, and we look forward to delivering an exceptional experience to guests in both markets."

    For its expansion into Houston, Vocelli’s will debut an all-halal menu that’s designed to appeal to Houston’s diverse community.

    "The team is excited to introduce Vocelli Pizza to Houston with a full halal menu," Bianco added. "There is a clear demand for high-quality Halal pizza and delivery options, and we are proud to meet that need while bringing our brand to a new and dynamic market."

    Founded by Turkish immigrant Varol Ablak in 1988, Vocelli began franchising in 1993. The restaurant currently has more than 80 locations.

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