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    11 things to know

    11 things to know in Houston food right now: openings, closings, and how to beat the summer heat

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 4, 2018 | 4:45 pm

    Editor’s note: Houston’s restaurant scene moves pretty fast. In order to prevent CultureMap readers from missing anything, let’s stop to look around at all the latest news to know.

    Chefs on the move
    Richard Knight has departed Harold’s in the Heights after three months, the restaurant announced. The former Feast/Hunky Dory chef has decided to concentrate on Show Us Your Goods, the video series he is developing with his wife, Carrie Jean Knight. Harold’s, which parted ways with longtime executive chef Antoine Ware earlier this year, will remain in the hands of “solid am and pm sous chefs and cooks that have been with us for many, many years,” owner Alli Jarret tells CultureMap in an email.

    Steve Haug, the well-traveled Houston chef who has served as executive chef at places like Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse and Grazia Italian Kitchen, has left Vallone’s to join the team at The Oceanaire Seafood Room in the Galleria, the chef announced on his Facebook page.

    Openings and closings
    Pour one out for Brooklyn Athletic Club. The windows of the bar and restaurant have been papered over, and a sign at the entrance states that it has closed for “much needed renovations.” When it opened in 2013, BAC offered an innovative mix of comfort food, cocktails, and outdoor games but recently has been overshadowed by Houston’s growing roster of patio bars. Given the prime location, expect it to be snapped up quickly by some savvy operator.

    Cheesesteak purveyor Pappa Geno’s has opened its Montrose location at 515 Westheimer Rd. Long regarded as one of Houston’s top destinations for the Philly favorite, the new spot gives the restaurant five Houston-area locations.

    Pokéworks will open its third Houston-area restaurant in Katy. The New York-based poke concept joins restaurants like MidiCi pizza, Jinya Ramen, and grilled cheese chain Tom and Chee at 21788 Katy Freeway. Look for an opening in the third week of June.

    Houston’s second JuiceWell will open in CityCentre later this summer. Already a success in the Greenway Plaza area thanks to its mix of cold-pressed juices, nut milks, smoothies, and acai bowls, the new JuiceWell will be located next to Bowl & Barrel at 797 Sorella Ct.

    Other news of note

    Better Luck Tomorrow has a new way for its patrons to beat the heat — craft cocktail pitchers. Priced at $38, pitchers of Martinis, Negronis, Manhattans, French 75s, and Mojitos are available for groups of three or four people. Each cocktail is served with traditional glassware, small snacks, and additional garnishes. Seek guidance from the bar staff on which options pairs best with that week's Pasta Tuesday special.

    For those looking to beat the heat without booze, consider Pondicheri. The popular Upper Kirby Indian restaurant has rolled out a brand new lineup of ice cream and flavored cones at its upstairs Bake Lab. Options include mango ice cream ladoo made with saffron, kevra, and cardamom or a dairy-free Moringa mint ice cream made with avocado, coconut, and lime. Match them with a housemade cone such as rose hibiscus and turmeric pink peppercorn covered with poppy seeds and edible flowers. Single scoops are $4 in a dish or $6 in a cone.

    Speaking of frozen treats, Cherry Pie Hospitality now sells its Nonna Mary’s Gelato at all Central Market locations in Texas. Created by gelatier Josh Collier, the brand offers six flavors, including a vegan chocolate sorbet, for $7.99 per pint.

    Artisans has rolled out a new, three-course lunch. For $29, diners who patronize the Midtown French restaurant will receive a choice of soup or salad, an entree of filet, seabass, or lobster tail, and dessert.

    Good news for fans of Nobie’s. Chef Martin Stayer’s eclectic restaurant is now open for dinner every day. On Sunday nights, the restaurant features a brunch for dinner menu with items like stuffed French toast, duck fat hash browns, and it’s gloriously over-the-top, oversized cinnamon roll.

    Find Nonna Mary's Gelato at Central Market.

    Nonna Mary's Gelato Texas Pecan
    Courtesy photo
    Find Nonna Mary's Gelato at Central Market.
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    Bernadine's Revived?

    Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 4, 2026 | 9:01 am
    Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
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    Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

    If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

    “I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

    Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

    The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

    Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

    The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

    “I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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