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    American Aboard

    The perfect Paris vacation planner: Pictures, trains and dreamy visions — it's easy to be your own curator

    Leslie Loddeke
    By Leslie Loddeke
    May 19, 2014 | 1:43 pm

    PARIS — Picture this: You’re admiring a painting depicting a dreamy scene on a beautiful day in the elegant Jardin du Luxembourg.

    Angelic-looking children are peacefully wielding long wooden poles as they propel sailboats across the basin of a fountain on the statue-studded grounds near the regal Palais du Luxembourg.

    In the background, throngs of Parisians are showing what joie de vivre is all about as they enjoy Le Week-End, being in the moment, basking in the sunshine. Above, majestic trees fan out against a baby-blue sky. You can almost feel the light breeze that’s rippling the water in the bassin. You realize Vivaldi must have been inspired by a scene like this when he composed his joyous “Spring” concerto in “The Four Seasons.”

    Real love creeps in when you begin to see the pictures all around, wherever you walk in the city, away from the top-billed attractions, outside as well as inside the museums.

    The longer you look at this picture, the more you fall in love with it. But you don’t want to own it. You want to be IN it.

    Suddenly, you realize you are. You’re slowly waking from a reverie, standing in the Luxembourg Gardens on an idyllic spring day in Paris. You’re watching real people serenely pursuing picturesque activities or just lounging, comfortable as cats, in metal chairs on the manicured grounds of an artfully designed, well-cared-for historic setting.

    The scene strikes you as strangely quiet until you remember that Parisians discreetly inhale their words as they speak to one another, so they don’t bother anyone else, a pleasant legacy probably left over from the days of the Resistance.

    Now you’re getting the picture of why so many people fall in love with Paris, once they get past the understandable compulsion to take endless selfies at the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe. Those signature monuments are truly smashing spectacles that practically club you over the head, and I adore them, too.

    But real love creeps in when you begin to see the pictures all around, wherever you walk in the city, away from the top-billed attractions, outside as well as inside the museums. For the whole city is so artistically designed and presented, at some point you can’t help noticing its deeper, silent charms, and appreciating all the efforts that contributed to what you’re seeing.

    Plethora Of Pictures

    You may well be considering a trip to Paris this summer, as it’s among the world’s top tourist destinations. Before you go, it’s a good idea to set up a short list of museum exhibitions you’d like to see in order to acclimate yourself to the plethora of pictures, framed and unframed, throughout Paris.

    I recently returned from a week of luxuriating in such pictures, and thought I’d offer a few ideas on how others might start their own collections under the title “Dream Archives.” That was inspired by an exhibition I saw at the Musee de l’Orangerie: “Archives of the Dream, Drawings from the Musee d’Orsay: carte blanche for Werner Spies.”

    You’ll be mesmerized by this selection of fantastical ideas and shadowy figures drawn by masters like Redon (“Devil carrying off a head,” 1876), Moreau (“Samson and Delilah,” 1882), Millet (“Lobster fishermen throwing their pots,” night effect,” 1857-60), and Seurat (“The Veil,” circa 1883.) This exhibition runs through June 30.

    The Musee d’Orsay also is presenting a dreamy exhibition, although this one is drawn more closely along the lines of a nightmare: “Van Gogh/Artaud, The Man Suicided by Society,” which runs through July 6.

    The “Man Suicided” collection is based on a 1947 book by Antonin Artaud, who argued that Van Gogh was driven to end it all by a society that was either indifferent to his work or trying to keep him from “uttering unspeakable truths,” according to the handout. With the aid of Artaud quotes offering vivid descriptions like “landscapes of strong convulsions,” the visitor gains a better understanding of this tormented artist and his work.

    My favorite was a painting of “Le Jardin de l’hopital Saint-Paul” (1889), a colorful perspective of the profusely blooming garden of the artist’s hospital.

    Dazzling Entertainment

    While that show was intellectually stimulating, I felt far more cheerful touring the enormous, dazzling “Paris 1900, City of Entertainment” exhibition. Six hundred exhibits, including paintings, sculpture, costumes, jewelry and photos, offer varying, delicious views of the formidable grandeur of the City of Lights during the fabulous Belle Epoque. “Paris 1900” is appropriately showcased at the splendid Petit Palais, which was built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. There it will remain through Aug. 17.

    The Guardian’s slideshow selection of “Paris 1900” exhibits will give you a good taste of this wholly delectable exhibition. Look at the Prinet painting of the gentleman kissing the hand of the lady resting during an evening gala on “Le Balcon,” and check out that elaborate Worth evening cape!

    The Orient Express

    And now for something completely different. How about touring the beautifully restored, handsomely outfitted old train cars in the exhibition “Once upon a time, the Orient Express” at the Arab World Institute? It will be there all summer, closing Aug. 31.

    Peering into the train’s compartments inspires the fantasy of being able to take the Orient Express from Houston to Paris.

    In reviewing this exhibition, CNN asked a good question: “Can any train ride match the Orient Express for glamor and sheer romance?” CNN notes that France’s national rail system, SCNF, is planning on bringing back the Orient Express, and as a prelude, teamed with the Arab World Institute to present “a long lost era when time had another meaning and traveling to Istanbul took four days and three nights.”

    What a grand experience that must have been! Peering into this luxe train’s private compartments inspires the wild fantasy of being able to take the Orient Express from Houston to Paris. Talk about traveling in style!

    I also recommend a look at the Orient Express for a nostalgic perspective of an entirely different, exotic way of traveling. Each of the elegant carriages, which date back to the ‘20s, is lavishly decorated like a stage set, strewn with vintage pieces. There are references to Murder on the Orient Express author Agatha Christie, Stamboul Train novelist Graham Greene, and even a steamy railcar scene in a James Bond film.

    However, that “once upon a time” feeling came through for me most vividly in examining the cars themselves — aspects like the exquisite, floral-designed Lalique glass paneling and the gleaming, rich wood. I loved seeing how so much concern about real quality went into the design and selection of the materials used in every part of those cars.

    While in Paris, I saw other exhibitions, but these were my favorites and they were all very well-attended. If you want to see any of them, you would be well-advised to book a timed-entry reservation in advance.

    One Regret

    I missed only one show I had wanted to see, that I would recommend. I’d read a great review in The Guardian on the Musee Marmottan Monet’s “Les Impressionistes en Prive” exhibition, which runs through July 6. It features seldom-seen Impressionist paintings from numerous private collections, and I was really looking forward to seeing it when I drew up my must-see list before I left.

    However, that was the one exhibition on my list for which I couldn’t get a ticket during my week’s stay when, on the day I landed, I visited my local FNAC event ticket purveyor. While I was disappointed, the news evoked little more than a Gallic shrug from me at the time.

    After all, I was in Paris. See what I mean?

    On view at Musee de l’Orangerie as part of the exhibit, Archives of the Dream, is Seurat's The Veil, circa 1883.

    Seurat, The Veil, circa 1883
    ArtHistory.About.com
    On view at Musee de l’Orangerie as part of the exhibit, Archives of the Dream, is Seurat's The Veil, circa 1883.
    unspecified
    news/travel

    Fashion on display

    Rare Halston fashion exhibition now on display in West Texas city

    Brandon Watson
    Feb 17, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Halston: Inventing American Fashion exhibit Ellen Noël Art Museum
    Photo courtesy of Ellen Noël Art Museum
    An colorful eveningwear grouping takes advantage of Ellen Noël Art Museum's curved walls.

    A rare exhibition honoring fashion pioneer Halston has popped up in an unexpected place: West Texas. Houston fashionistas who are fans of the designer can hop a flight (or drive eight hours) to Odessa’s newly revamped Ellen Noël Art Museum to view "Halston: Inventing American Fashion."

    Halston’s minimalistic fashions are rarely the subjects of retrospectives, although the designer’s dramatic life story recently had a pop-cultural resurgence through a 2021 Ryan Murphy miniseries. "Halston: Inventing American Fashion" assesses the talent that made him a household name.

    Known now for outfitting 1970s icons like Liza Minelli and Bianca Jagger, Halston changed the international reputation of American sportswear as part of the famous 1973 “Battle of Versailles” fashion show, holding his own against Paris’ most lauded couturiers. His uniquely louche style still influences contemporary brands like Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, and Tom Ford, who was briefly the creative director for a revised Halston label.

    The mannequins in the Odessa display are outfitted with 75 ensembles from flowing Ultrasuede daywear to more dramatic draped gowns. The pieces “illustrate how Halston revolutionized fashion by prioritizing comfort, confidence, and modern femininity,” according to a release.

    Although Odessa may seem an odd choice for the show, Halston had deep Texas connections. After he moved on from hat making, Amarillo millionaire Estelle Marsh was his sole backer willing to fund his first Madison Avenue boutique.

     Ellen No\u00ebl Art Museum, Odessa, new facade. The new facade at Ellen Noël Art MuseumPhoto courtesy of Ellen Noël Art Museum

    Halston: Inventing American Fashion exhibit Ellen No\u00ebl Art Museum

    Photo courtesy of Ellen Noël Art Museum

    An colorful eveningwear grouping takes advantage of Ellen Noël Art Museum's curved walls.

    And the recently completed renovation of Odessa's Ellen Noël Art Museum has some of the designer’s signature sleek. Designed by architect R.J. Lopez, the renovation includes new galleries and improved circulation, but the centerpiece is a striking transparent façade, replacing the original brick of the 1985 building.

    “The renovation project has been over 10 years in the making and in the construction phase for the past two years,” says the museum’s buildings manager, Steve Patton, via a release. “The completion of the project has resulted in an incredible facility that is a shining star in West Texas, offering programs and exhibits that will be a destination point for people all over the world!”

    "Halston: Inventing American Fashion" will run through March 22. Admission to the Ellen Noël Art Museum is free.

    exhibitsodessafashionwest texasmuseumsdesignertexas
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