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    Irresistible as ever

    Spectacular exhibitions and heavenly scents lure crowds to Paris museums despite turbulence

    Leslie Loddeke
    By Leslie Loddeke
    May 11, 2017 | 9:00 am

    Crowds are continuing to flock to spectacular exhibitions at the museums and other attractions in Paris this spring, undeterred by the most recent turbulence.

    A trip to the City of Light is always an adventure, but ever since the November 2015 terror attacks, the resilient city's ancient Latin motto "Fluctuat nec mergitur" ("Tossed, but never sunk" under a ship on its coat of arms) has been speaking especially clearly to visitors as well as residents from the monuments and buildings where the words are inscribed.

    While waiting in an unusually long line to Customs at Charles de Gaulle airport after my Air France flight's arrival last month, I heard that an apparent terrorist attack had killed a police officer on the Champs-Elysees the night before. That day, a story headlined "Sadly, tourists will once again ask themselves if it's safe to visit Paris" ran in The Local/AFP.

    On that afternoon and ensuing days, however, based on what I observed and the variety of accents I heard (particularly American), there was no paucity of tourists strolling the tree-lined Champs-Elysees leading to the Arc de Triomphe, or anywhere else I went in Paris, for that matter.

    Like me, many tourists include a visit to at least one of Paris' famous museums because they routinely show outstanding exhibitions. A popular destination on the Champs-Elysees for many visitors at this time is the Grand Palais, whose blockbuster celebration of the works of Auguste Rodin 100 years after his death tops the list of Paris art exhibitions through September 2017 reviewed by Tony Cross in RFI.

    "Rodin, the centenary exhibition" is simply breathtaking. It shows 200 of the great 19th-century sculptor's works as well as some by artists he influenced, like Zadkine and Matisse. I found "The Burghers of Calais" and "The Gates of Hell" singularly arresting and powerfully communicative.

    "Vermeer and the Masters of Genre Painting" at the Louvre is another smash; best to reserve tickets in advance for this one, as well. This exhibition is equally instructive, showing how Johannes Vermeer (1632-1675) was among a number of remarkable Dutch artists who used light to special advantage in painting domestic scenes during the Golden Age of the Republic of the Seven United Netherlands.

    "Pissarro in Eragny: Nature Regained" at Musee du Luxembourg displays peaceful landscapes painted by Camille Pissarro (1830-1903) in a village called Eragny-sur-Epte during the latter part of his life. The exhibition features about 100 paintings, drawings and engravings. "La Cueillette des Pommes" is particularly appealing: a lovely, sunlit piece portraying several laborers collecting apples from a tree.

    Beyond the stars

    The ever-popular Musee d'Orsay is attracting enormous crowds with "Beyond the Stars, the Mystical Landscape from Monet to Kandinsky," a collection organized in partnership with the Art Gallery of Ontario. This exhibition presents late 19th- and early 20th-century landscape paintings that focus on the mystical depictions of artists including Serusier ("Incantation" or "The Sacred Woods"), Gauguin ("Vision after the Sermon" and his self-modeled "Christ in the Garden of Olives"), Van Gogh ("Starry Night"), members of the Canadian Group of Seven, and others who looked beyond the stars.

    You really should buy a double ticket to get beyond the stars at the Orsay as well as across the Seine to the Musee de l'Orangerie to savor the wonderful "Tokyo Paris Masterpieces from Bridgestone Museum of Art of Tokyo, Collection Ishibashi Foundation." The founder of the Bridgestone tire company, Shojiro Ishibashi, started collecting art in the late '30s, and in 1952 commissioned a museum to house his collection in Tokyo.

    While it's being renovated, we get to see stunning works by artists including Monet ("Twilight, Venice," "Flood at Argenteuil"), Manet, Cezanne ("Mont Sainte-Victoire and Chateau Noir"), Courbet ("Deer Running in the Snow"), Caillebotte ("Young Man at the Piano"), Matisse, Picasso, Pollock and Shiraga.

    Heavenly scents

    Aside from its reputation for fine art, Paris is well known for its fine perfumes. If you appreciate heavenly scents, be sure to "journey into scent at Paris' new Grand Musee du Parfum," as the Australian Financial Review suggests.

    This high-tech interactive museum is located in an expensively refitted 18th-century mansion that previously housed the Christian Lacroix maison de couture on fashionable rue du Faubourg Sainte-Honore. The museum's technology partner, Scentys, designed the elaborate equipment throughout the museum that emits various fragrances which visitors can sniff to determine whether their olfactory nerves are as discerning as they might believe them to be.

    In one room, for example, there is a long row of steel balls which emit the scents that comprise the building blocks of perfume. You pick up one of the balls, sniff that odor emitted, select your language, and a pleasant electronic voice will tell you what you just smelled, such as rose, orange blossom, jasmine or another scent. In other rooms, you can learn a great deal about the history of perfume. I particularly enjoyed the collection of perfume bottles from the past.

    All told, just like Paris, the Musee du Parfum is a heady experience. After sampling a significant number of 70 different, delicious scents, I felt a little intoxicated as I staggered, smiling, out of the building. As I made my exit onto the avenue, I unwittingly attracted the attention of a couple of passersby who abruptly decided to investigate the new museum, hoping to have whatever I had in there.

    Paris: always an adventure.

    The lovers in Rodin's "The Kiss" sculpture outside Musée de l'Orangerie.

    The lovers in Rodin's "The Kiss" sculpture outside Musee de l'Orangerie in Paris
    Photo by Leslie Loddeke
    The lovers in Rodin's "The Kiss" sculpture outside Musée de l'Orangerie.
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    Get your kicks

    Texas is just the start of the ultimate Route 66 road trip

    Associated Press
    Apr 9, 2026 | 9:30 am
    Cadillac Ranch
    Cadillac Ranch/ Facebook
    Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is an essential stop on a Route 66 road trip.

    ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. (AP) — There are faster ways to get from Chicago to Los Angeles, but none have the allure or cultural cachet of Route 66.

    To John Steinbeck, it was the Mother Road that led poor farmers from Dust Bowl desperation to sunny California. To Native Americans along the route, it was an economic boon that also left scars. To Black travelers, it offered sanctuary during segregation. And to music fans, it was the place to get their kicks.

    Route 66 marks its 100th anniversary this year. Despite losing its status decades ago as one of the nation’s main arteries, people from around the world still flock to it to take perhaps the quintessential American road trip and soak in its neon lights, kitschy motels and attractions, and culinary offerings.

    The dream
    Route 66, which runs for roughly 2,400 miles (3,860 kilometers) from Chicago through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before ending in Santa Monica, California, was stitched together a century ago from a collection of Native American trading routes and old dirt roads with the goal of linking the industrial Midwest to the Pacific coast.

    Oklahoma businessman Cyrus Avery, known as the Father of Route 66, saw it as more than just a way to cross the country efficiently. It was a chance to connect rural America and create new pockets of commerce.

    Avery knew the number 66 would be ripe for marketing and could be seared into drivers' minds, and he was right: Route 66 has been immortalized in movies, books, including Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath and Jack Kerouac’s On the Road, and songs such as Bobby Troup's “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66,” which served as an anthem for post-World War II optimism and mobility.

    If you’ve ever planned to motor west and take the highway that’s the best, the year of Route 66's 100th anniversary just might be the time.

    Many stretches of Route 66 may be littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but there's still much history and magic to be discovered. With each stop the wheels of imagination turn, leaving travelers to contemplate what life was like for the people and communities that made the road hum.

    Here are essential stops and sights to see on a road trip along historic Route 66.

    Route 66 Somewhere along Route 66. Photo by Morten Andreassen on Unsplash

    Illinois
    Chicago has long been one of the country’s economic engines, with access to international waters and railroads that linked all corners of the country.

    For some travelers, the journey is fueled more by the food than the scenery, and there’s plenty to choose from — slices of homemade pie, thick shakes, cheeseburgers and an assortment of fried delights.

    The Cozy Dog Drive In in Springfield, the Illinois capital, is one of the many diners that sprang up along Route 66, and its breaded hot dogs on a stick have stood the test of time. Third-generation owner Josh Waldmire says the recipe is a secret.

    Waldmire’s grandfather, Ed, saw the concoction’s potential as fast and convenient road food and developed a system for frying the dogs vertically.

    Missouri
    Route 66 has its share of twists and turns, and it’s no surprise that a highway famous for its quirky roadside attractions would cross the nation’s most famous river on one of the more peculiar bridges known to modern engineering.

    As the road nears St. Louis, the mile-long (1.6-kilometer-long) Chain of Rocks Bridge hovers more than 60 feet (18 meters) above the Mississippi River.

    Engineers eventually built a straighter, higher-speed option, and a poor resale market spared the original bridge from the scrap heap. Today it’s reserved for pedestrians and cyclists.

    A median in Missouri is home to St. Robert Route 66 Neon Park, which features orphaned neon signs that once beckoned travelers to stop at certain sites and businesses along the highway. Often handcrafted, they weren’t only markers for motels, cafes and gas stations, but were also folk art and symbols of local culture.

    Kansas
    The Sunflower State hosts only a short stretch of Route 66, but it packs a punch with the Kan-O-Tex Service Station in Galena. A classic example of roadside fare, the station served as inspiration for the animated 2006 Pixar film Cars.

    Director John Lasseter and his crew took road trips along the route, digging into history and looking for elements that could bring the project to life. It was in Galena where they spotted the old boom truck that served as the basis for the character Tow Mater. The plot wasn’t far off, as so many once bustling towns — like the fictional Radiator Springs — nearly faded away after being bypassed by an interstate.

    Kansas also is home to the Brush Creek Bridge, otherwise known as the Rainbow Bridge. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of few remaining examples of the concrete arched bridges designed by James Barney Marsh.

    Route 66 Neon signs along Route 66. Photo by Mick Haupt on Unsplash

    Oklahoma
    There was a real danger for some who traveled the road, particularly Black motorists passing through inhospitable and segregated areas during the Jim Crow era. The Green Book — a guide first published in 1936 by Victor Hugo Green — listed hotels, restaurants and gas stations that would serve Black customers.

    The Threatt Filling Station near Luther wasn’t listed in The Green Book, but it was a safe haven — not only for getting fuel, but for barbecue and baseball. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it was the only known Black-owned and operated gas station along Route 66.

    Route 66 is littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but one example of the highway’s resilient spirit stands tall in Sapulpa, near Tulsa. The restored Tee Pee Drive-In Theater offers a step back into the 1950s, when the booming car culture helped spawn thousands of drive-in theaters nationwide.

    Built in 1949, the drive-in officially opened in the spring of 1950 with a screening of John Wayne’s “Tycoon.” It was one of the few drive-ins at the time to have paved pathways. Over the years, it survived a tornado, a fire that destroyed the concession stand and break-ins before being shuttered for more than 20 years. It reopened in 2023.

    route 66 historic district Get your kicks on Route 66 in Amarillo. Photo courtesy of Visit Amarillo

    Texas
    Blink and you might miss it, but a stop at the Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is a must for any Route 66 journey. For decades, visitors have been spray-painting the 10 vintage Cadillacs at the site and mulling the transitory nature of time as Bruce Springsteen did in his 1980 song of the same name.

    It’s not a ranch, but rather a public art installation created in 1974 by the art and architecture collective Ant Farm. At first, the cars — which were half-buried front-down at a 60-degree angle — were used for target practice. Others would scratch their initials into the metal. The spray painting started later.

    Arrive in Adrian and you’re halfway through your trip. Steps from a white line marking the midpoint of Route 66 is the Midway Cafe, where the “ugly pies” are anything but.

    If you’re still hungry, head back to Amarillo for a 72-ounce (2 kilogram) steak and all the sides at The Big Texan. If you can finish the meal in an hour or less, it's free.

    New Mexico
    More than half of Route 66 cuts through sovereign Native American lands, often tracing routes used by tribes long before settlers arrived. Much like the railroad in the 1800s, the highway opened the door to a new era of commerce, but it also fueled stereotypes about cultures along the way.

    There are still faded and crumbling references to tipis and feathered headdresses at some stops along the historic highway. The symbols were easily appropriated for marketing by roadside vendors but weren't indicative of the separate and distinct Native American cultures in the area.

    Today, tribes are telling their own stories and showcasing their creations, whether it be pottery, fruit pies or poems.

    Albuquerque boasts the longest intact urban stretch of Route 66. Those 18 miles (29 kilometers) pass through several neighborhoods and business districts, from historic Old Town to Nob Hill.

    Some of the old motor lodges and neon signs along what is now Central Avenue have been restored. Other signs are being reimagined using hubcaps, elaborate lowrider-inspired paint jobs and New Mexico’s classic yellow and red license plates in a nod to the car culture that is very much still alive in the city.

    Arizona
    Musician Jackson Browne was taking his own road trip in the early 1970s when his car left him stranded in Winslow. The experience inspired the lyrics to the Eagles’ hit “Take it Easy.” But it’s certainly not the only song that is a must-have for a Route 66 playlist.

    Bobby Troup created a classic American road anthem in the 1940s with “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66.” Nat King Cole, Chuck Berry, The Rolling Stones and Depeche Mode carried it through the decades, each covering the song with their own flair.

    While standing on a corner in Winslow, don’t be surprised if someone saunters up with a guitar and starts strumming favorites from their own road trip playlist.

    Before leaving the state, the one-time gold mining town of Oatman features a Wild West atmosphere, daily staged shootouts and beloved burros. Oatman was a destination along one of the original alignments of Route 66 via a treacherous path through the Black Mountains, but it was later bypassed as part of improvements made in the 1950s.

    California
    Once a desert oasis, Roy’s Motel & Café in Amboy is a quintessential Route 66 landmark. The towering neon sign is one of the most photographed spots along the road. Inside, foreign currency left by international visitors lines one wall. Across the street, a clothing post decorated with shoes, shirts and other items juts up from the desert floor.

    This stretch of the highway through the Mojave Desert offers a special kind of solitude. The pavement gets rough in spots and the landscape takes charge, showing off Joshua trees, wide-open spaces and the remnants of ancient volcanic activity.

    Much of the area is undeveloped, meaning it looks a lot like it would have when Route 66 was commissioned in 1926.

    After making it through oft-congested Los Angeles, the iconic Santa Monica Pier marks the end of the line, and it’s nothing short of a perpetual party with a steady stream of spectators and performers. Although many stretches of Route 66 have lapsed into decay, the breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean are a reminder of the pursuits made possible by the road over the last century.

    american road tripneon signsroad triproute 66
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