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    Fall Fashion Preview

    Designer touts Houston love, understated glamour and search for world's best fried chicken

    Clifford Pugh
    Mar 15, 2015 | 1:30 pm

    NEW YORK — For fall, Bibhu Mohapatra is into understated glamour. His new collection, unveiled at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, features clean, graphic looks in primary shades of black, white and silver, with bursts of marigold, ruby and indigo blue. Bias-cut gowns with flowing trains, ostrich feather skirts and luxe fur coats with a light, unbundled-up feeling dress up the collection without too many bells and whistles.

    Mohapatra told style.com that after traveling to India in early December to mourn the death of his father, he stripped out the floral motifs from the collection and replaced them with brushstrokes and feathers for a more restrained look. "She's the same woman, but a little more restrained, serious," he said, referring to his customer and this collection.

    "Women in Houston actually buy clothes to wear. If I had the choice I would like to have that in all of the cities."

    There's still plenty of "wow" factor for his upscale clientele, particularly in the evening gowns and draped day dresses in graphic color-block patterns. When in Houston a few months ago for a personal appearance at Elizabeth Anthony, which showcases his collection, Mohapatra said that, while he is known for evening gowns, his expanded daywear and fur collections are increasingly popular.

    "I think I get to know my customer every season because she’s evolving. She has become global. When I send my products to China, it’s the same woman. Physically she may be different but she’s exposed and she understands the aesthetics. So whether it’s China or the Middle East or India or New York or Houston, I’m getting to know my client better, so my product is evolving based on that."

    From periodic trips to Houston (he is good friends with Museum of Fine Arts, Houston director Gary Tinterow and his partner Christopher Gardner and has also shown his collection twice at Fashion Houston), Mohapatra has been impressed by the way Bayou City women dress.

    "But the reality is that they have a special affinity for arts and culture. Let’s take clothes out of the equation for a second. Look at the appetite for art alone. It all kinds of centers on that," he said. "Women in Houston actually buy clothes to wear. If I had the choice I would like to have that in all of the cities."

    During his next trip to Houston, look for Mohapatra to dine on a local delicacy. When asked what was something people didn't know about him, he said, "I love fried chicken. I love it so much to the point that I could eat it every day."

    CultureMap advised him to check out Frenchy’s on his next Houston trip because it's a favorite of Beyoncé.

    "If it’s good for Beyoncé, it’s good for me," he said.

    Bibhu Mohapatra onyx, ruby and ivory crepe day dress with side drape detail.

    Clifford Fashion Week New York fall 2015 Bibhu Mohapatra March 2015 Look 6
      
    Photo courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra
    Bibhu Mohapatra onyx, ruby and ivory crepe day dress with side drape detail.
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    news/fashion

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    Fall Fashion Preview

    Top designer has a dandy time for fall with a moody boho vibe and a touch of fantasy

    Clifford Pugh
    Aug 30, 2015 | 3:53 pm
    Top designer has a dandy time for fall with a moody boho vibe and a touch of fantasy
    Photo by © Dan and Corina Lecca
    Thakoon places a shearling sash over multicolored dress and white blouse.

    Editor's Note: As the fall fashion season approaches, we look at some of the hot looks that will soon be in stores as shown on the runways of New York Fashion Week.

    Designer Thakoon Panichgul is right on trend for fall with a boheminan vibe that incorporates rich prints and textured fabrics like tapestry velvet, nubby wools, crinkly chiffon and shiny sequins.

    If next winter is as cold as the last one, Thakoon's multi-layered approach should come in handy for staying warm.

    The Thai-born, Nebraska-raised designer, who is a favorite of the fashion crowd for his namesake Thakoon line, told reporters backstage after the New York Fashion Week show that he had taken his cues from such 19-century dandies as Oscar Wilde, along with romantic fantasies like the 1985 Tom Cruise movie, Legend, to create a moody collection with a touch of whimsy.

    The look is long and lean, with mid-calf skirts and floaty floor-touching dresses with plunging V-necks that also have a bit of a 1920s flapper feel to them. The designer, who over the years has been a favorite of first lady Michelle Obama, works with a dark palette offset with accents of terracotta, red and magenta, although one of the collection's highlights is a crisp, long-sleeved white shirt knotted below the waist.

    The collection has a tactile feel, with cozy patchwork ombré wool coats, boucle-striped turtlenecks and shirts, and shearling sashes that run diagonally across the upper body like a Girl Scout medal holder. If next winter is as cold as the last one across most of the country, Thakoon's multi-layered approach should come in handy for staying warm.

    Thakoon places a shearling sash over multicolored dress and white blouse.

    Clifford New York Fashion Week fall 2015 Thakoon April 2015 Look13
      
    Photo by © Dan and Corina Lecca
    Thakoon places a shearling sash over multicolored dress and white blouse.
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    series/clifford-on-the-catwalk-2015
    news/fashion
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