Pastry Chefs of the Year

These 12 pastry chefs bake up the best in Houston's restaurant scene

UPDATE: The CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, originally scheduled for April 2, will now be held on August 6. The story has been updated with the new date.

---

Meals don’t have to end with dessert, but they should, dammit. A chocolate tart, a perfectly executed slice of pie, a piece of cake — nothing provides comfort and satisfaction in quite the same way as a perfect dessert.

Our nominees for the 2020 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Pastry Chef of the Year understand the importance of ending a meal properly. These 12 talented individuals all turn out memorable sweets (that are never TOO sweet, obviously), and many of them craft savory breads, kolaches, and other items, too.

Remember, doughs are temperamental. They require both creativity and chemistry to achieve the proper result. With that in mind, it would be disrespectful not to order these chefs’ creations.

Who will win? Find out August 6 at the Tastemaker Awards party. We’ll dine on bites from this year’s nominated restaurants before emcee Bun B reveals the winners. Buy tickets now.

Allison Rene Thiessen - 1751 Sea & Bar
After working at restaurants such as One Fifth and Rainbow Lodge, this chef reunited with fellow Southern Goods alum J.D. Woodward at this Heights-area seafood restaurant. 1751 takes a global approach to its menu, and that continues with its desserts. Sure, a diner could opt for something subtle like a citrus pavlova or mini hot chocolate, but it’s Thiessen’s show-stopping coconut cake that earns the most consistent raves.

Alyssa Dole - The Kirby Group
No matter she works — Dole has been previously nominated for her work at both Coltivare and Pinkerton’s BBQ — our panel keeps recognizing her work. The Kirby Group bars (Wooster’s Garden, Holman Draft Hall, Heights Bier Garten, and Pitch 25) have always had culinary offerings that exceed expectations, which Dole contributes to by fashioning items such as housemade breads for sandwiches and pretzels. The sweet side comes out in HBG’s brunch menu, which includes kolaches and blueberry muffins.

Chris Leung - Cloud 10 Creamery
A presence on Houston’s dining scene for more than 10 years — we still have fond memories of the pies he served at the late, lamented Bootsie’s — Leung maintains Cloud 10’s status as Houston’s most intriguing ice cream shop. Over the past year, he’s expanded his output to power Cloud 10’s three scoops shops and its growing retail/mail order business. Even as newcomers enter the market, Cloud 10 staples like rnutella with marshmallows and cafe sua da remain consistent crowd pleasers.

Julia Doran - Nancy's Hustle
The chef’s parmesan cheesecake with black pepper honey is just as essential to a meal at Nancy’s as the Nancy cakes and lamb dumplings are, but it’s hard to resist whatever creation Doran has just added to the menu. Just try to resist the brand-new creme fraiche semifreddo with a molten chocolate cake center and salted kumquats. Tiny Champions, the new pizzeria she’s opening with chef Jason Vaughn and beverage specialist Sean Jensen, will provide her with another outlet for her sweet and savory talents.

Otto Sanchez and Matthieu Cabon - Magnol French Baking
With experience working in Las Vegas for superstar chef Joël Robuchon, Sanchez and Cabon bring Michelin-level experience to their joint venture. Open less than a year, Magnol has quickly earned a following for its classic French baguettes and croissants. Going to the bakery on Saturday mornings may yield other treats such as eclairs that show off the duo’s precise techniques.

Rebecca Masson - Fluff Bake Bar
Permitting hassles and construction hiccups have delayed Masson’s debut of her new location near The Heights, but the wait should be coming to an end soon. When it does, she’ll expand her menu with new items such as croissants and kolaches made with products from Truth BBQ. Her signature sweets like the Veruca Salt cake and Couch Potato cookie nail the perfect sweet-salty balance; that’s why they’ve become modern Houston classics.

Samantha Mendoza - Killen's Restaurants
Ronnie Killen may be known for his meaty repertoire, but no meal at his restaurants is complete without one of Mendoza’s sweets. Whether it’s milkshakes at Killen’s Burgers, delicate chocolates at Killen’s Steakhouse, or the churros a Killen’s TMX, her confections always satisfy. The biggest challenge is remembering to save room for them.

Sharon Leonard - Sweet Bribery
A veteran of restaurants such as Uchi and State of Grace, Leonard’s found her calling at this retro-styled ice cream shop in The Heights. Flavors like cookies and cream or mint chocolate chip may sound familiar, but Leonard imbues them with a depth of flavor that transcends their supermarket counterparts. Sweet Bribery’s winning combination of ice cream, baked goods, and booze (beer and wine) gives it a special niche in the suddenly-crowded roster of Heights ice cream options.

Shawn Gawle - Goodnight Hospitality
A veteran of three restaurants that each received three Michelin stars — L20 in Chicago, Saison in San Francisco, and Quince, also in San Francisco — Gawle supplies both Rosie Cannonball and Montrose Cheese & Wine with a wide array of sweet and savory items. Pop into MC&W for his gooey, slightly salty-in-good-way chocolate chip cookies or Pastéis de Nata (Portguese egg custard tarts). Rosie’s signature Focaccia di Recco is one of his creations, as is the mandatory Basque-style cheesecake.

Valerie Trasatti - Rosalie Italian Soul
The talented pastry chef has popped up at a few different projects over the last few years — the corn cookie at Cavo Coffee is one example — but she seems to have found a permanent home at Chris Cosentino’s downtown restaurant. Finding East Coast-style Italian sweets like cannoli and cookies has always been difficult in Houston, but Trasatti turns out versions that would hold their own with the best of Boston’s North End neighborhood. Too full from chef Sasha Grumman’s handmade pastas to contemplate dessert? Don’t worry; Trasatti’s tiramisu makes for an excellent breakfast.

Vanarin Kuch - Koffeteria
After working in New York and Chicago, the Tiny Boxwoods veteran returned to Houston to open his bakery in EaDo. Sure, the Hot Cheetos croissant gets all the attention, but Kuch’s full roster deserves adoration. A baklava croissant loaded with honey and pistachios has an appealing crunch, and his double-height, pleasantly chewy chocolate chip cookies are irresistible. Best of all, Koffeteria’s savory options and espresso beverages make it an appealing breakfast option, too.

Otto Sanchez.

Courtesy of Dwayne Fortier

Otto Sanchez.

tastemakers chefs desserts

Coffee culture

Why Yemeni coffeehouses are booming in Houston and across the U.S.

Arwa Coffee

undefined

Hundreds of years ago, Yemen helped introduce the world to coffee. Lately, the mountainous, war-ravaged country that borders Saudi Arabia and Oman is exporting something else: its coffee culture.

Yemeni coffeehouses are opening at a rapid pace across the U.S. The number of cafes run by six major chains that serve Yemeni-style drinks grew 50% last year to 136, according to Technomic, a restaurant industry consulting company. The count doesn’t include the many smaller chains and independent cafes serving coffees and teas imported from Yemen.

Yemeni coffeehouses are meeting the moment for several reasons. They stay open late — sometimes past 3 am, especially during Ramadan — and provide a place to socialize for the growing number of Americans who don’t drink alcohol. Last year, a Gallup poll found that just 54% U.S. adults reported drinking alcohol, the lowest percentage in 90 years.

“Generally in the Middle East, our nightlife is coffee, right? People hang out at coffee shops, they play cards, they talk. We wanted to bring that here,” said Ahmad Badr, who owns an Arwa Yemeni Coffee franchise in Sunnyvale, California.

Another reason for the cafes’ popularity is the growing number of Americans of Arab descent. Between 2010 and 2024, the Arab American population in the U.S. rose by 43%, compared to around 10% growth for the U.S. population as a whole, according to the Arab American Institute.

While most Yemeni coffee shops are in places with high concentrations of Arab Americans, including Texas, Michigan, and California, they’re also opening in locations as diverse as Alpharetta, Georgia; Overland Park, Kansas; and Portland, Maine.

A taste of home
Faris Almatrahi is the co-founder and owner of Texas-based Arwa Yemeni Coffee, a chain with 11 cafes across the U.S. and 30 more in development.

He said an ongoing civil war in Yemen that began in 2014 has prevented Yemeni Americans like himself from visiting their homeland, so he has tried to evoke Yemen in his cafes.

Arwa locations are painted in natural desert tones, with archways that mimic mosques and lampshades shaped like the hats worn by Yemen’s coffee farmers.

“One of the ways to actually visit without traveling there was to bring that experience to the U.S., and that was a huge passion for us when we opened our first location,” Almatrahi said. “It was extremely emotional for all of us due to the fact that it really transported us to Yemen."

But Almatrahi noted that most of his customers aren’t of Arab descent. In fact, Americans of all backgrounds are seeking out new global flavors and authentic experiences, according to market research company Datassential. Food trends are also spreading quickly through social media.

In addition to Arwa's location in Richmond, the Houston-area is home to a number of other Yemeni coffeehouses, including Qamaria Yemeni Coffee Co., Mazajj Organic Coffee, and Yemex Bakehouse & Specialty Coffee, an only-in-Houston mashup of Yemeni and Mexican flavors.

Menus vary, but Yemeni cafes generally serve specialties like Adeni tea, a spiced tea similar to chai, and qishr, a traditional drink made from the dried husks of coffee cherries. Familiar drinks like lattes might contain special spices or honey; at Haraz, lattes are sometimes topped with saffron threads.

Bakery cases might contain khaliat nahal, or Yemeni honeycomb bread, a cheese-filled pastry drizzled with honey, or basboosa, a cake soaked in sugar syrup and often flavored with lemon or rose water. Many Yemeni menus also mix in more typical U.S. coffeeshop fare, like matcha lattes or berry refreshers.

Choices for coffee lovers
Peter Giuliano, a researcher with the Specialty Coffee Association, a California-based nonprofit, said culturally specific cafes have been a key growth driver in the U.S. coffee industry for the last few years. In addition to Yemeni cafes, he cited the Latin-style chain Tierra Mia in California and Nguyen Coffee Supply, a New York-based company that roasts Vietnamese beans.

A customer who visited Badr's shop in Sunnyvale for the first time said an internet search brought her there on a recent weekday. Cindy Donovan said she’s always on the hunt for good coffee and was excited by Yemeni coffees she tried.

“I think they're much more refined and mellow, and much more full of flavor than a regular cup of dark roast, for instance,” Donovan said. “The cardamom in the drinks is fantastic. Very, very flavorful, rich but not heavy.”

Most Yemeni coffee is sun-dried, which enhances its flavor and brings out undertones of chocolate and fruit, Almatrahi said. Yemeni cafes often mix coffee with special spice mixes – or hawaij – that may contain cardamon, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, coriander or nutmeg.

“Our coffee and teas are not just made through a fully automatic machine,” said Mohamed Nasser, the director of operations for Haraz Coffee House. “We have to manually blend and mix our coffee and tea, boil it with water and evaporated milk, make sure that it comes out (with the) perfect taste, perfect color.”

Yemen's flavorful history
Coffee has a long history in Yemen. While the plant was likely discovered in Ethiopia, by the 1400s it was being cultivated in Yemen, where monks brewed it to stay awake during prayers, according to the National Coffee Association, a U.S. trade group. Yemen monopolized the coffee trade for around 200 years until Dutch merchants smuggled coffee seeds to Indonesia and began growing plants there.

Almatrahi said a revitalization of the Yemeni coffee industry over the last two decades, led by coffee companies, foundations and young entrepreneurs, helped make the current U.S. boom possible. Coffee is one of the most promising sectors for economic development in Yemen, where more than 80% of the population lives in poverty, according to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations.

“We are ambassadors for our culture and our people. So when we open these shops, we want to perform the outreach, to show the hospitality, to show what we have to offer,” Almatrahi said.

---

Stephanie Allmon Merry and Eric Sandler contributed to this story.

trends coffee

Pastry Chefs of the Year

These 12 pastry chefs bake up the best in Houston's restaurant scene

Otto Sanchez.

Coffee culture

Why Yemeni coffeehouses are booming in Houston and across the U.S.

Mexico City-style bar shakes up Houston with modern sips and Michelin-worthy eats

Tomball barbecue trio spins up new tavern devoted to pizza and burgers

Growing restaurant chain brings over-the-top burgers to Houston