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    CultureMap Video

    Inside a cattle ranch: The real story of where top Houston restaurant beef comes from

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 2, 2015 | 4:21 pm

    Texans love beef, but few Texans may love beef more than Bob McClaren. At 44 Farms in Cameron, McClaren raises Black Angus cattle on land that has been in his family for more than 100 years.

    On Saturday, 44 Farms held one of its biannual cattle auctions known as the Prime Cut Bull Sale. The auction drew more than 700 attendees from all over the United States and Mexico to 44 Farms's 2,300 acre ranch.

    Advance preparation is key — once the gavel hits, a bull can be sold in as little as 30 seconds. Top bulls can fetch almost $20,000.

    During the approximately four-and-a-half hour auction, 44 Farms sold approximately 500 bulls and 100 heifers to buyers who appreciate the ranch's carefully cultivated genetics.

    Prior to the start of the auction, would-be buyers received a catalog with information about each animal available for purchase. All of the animals are available for inspection in pens prior to the sale. Advance preparation is key — once the gavel hits, a bull can be sold in as little as 30 seconds. Top bulls can fetch almost $20,000.

    Those high prices are justified by the production of the bulls once they reach their destination ranches. Isidro Gieuietz has traveled to Cameron from his ranch near Falcon Lake in Mexico for five years. "They've got a good program . . . When I feed my cattle, I can see the results," he says.

    McClaren realizes that demands for beef is at all-time high — and so are the prices. In an effort to increase supply, 44 Farms has developed the "right way" program to buy back calves that are born from its bulls. The program ensures that ranchers earn a premium for properly raised cattle that are hormone and antibiotic free.

    "Our main focus is to make sure ranchers are in a sustainable business, and producing well, providing great cattle and making a profit," McClaren says.

    It's rare to see branded beef on menus, but 44 Farms has been popping up in more and more restaurants: From their signature hot dogs at downtown bar The Nightingale Room to their steaks at places like Killen's Steakhouse in Pearland and Knife in Dallas.

    "I think the chefs who have tried our beef see there is a difference in terms of the marbling characteristics of the beef," McClaren says. "It's just a central part of our program: Making sure the meat is highly marbled, (which) adds flavor, tenderness and boldness to the beef that I think is unusual."

    Ronnie Killen tells CultureMap he uses 44 Farms beef at both his steakhouse and barbecue joint. It's less marbled than the prime he sources from Chicago's Allen Bros or various purveyors of domestic Wagyu (Japanese-style), but it still has a good, beef flavor. The biggest problem is getting a consistent enough supply to meet Killen diners' voracious demand for beef.

    With the "right way" program, 44 Farms is doing what it can to address those concerns. After all, Texas deserves great, locally sourced, steaks, burgers and hot dogs.

    Two heifers are presented to buyers for bid.

    44 Farms auction
      
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Two heifers are presented to buyers for bid.
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    Houston chef looks back at barbecue pop-ups with artful new zine

    Craig D. Lindsey
    May 15, 2025 | 4:00 pm
    Ryan Grimes Knives in Water
    Courtesy of Ryan Grimes
    Ryan Grimes has been serving food in bars for more than 10 years.

    If you frequent beloved dive bars like Two Headed Dog, Grand Prize Bar or Lil' Danny Speedo's Go Fly a Kite Lounge, there’s a good chance you’ve drunkenly bought food from Knives in Water.

    One of several pop-up kitchens that sells and serves bar food on a regular basis, Knives consists of one guy – Baltimore native Ryan Grimes – who knows his way around smoked meats, whether it’s ribs, turkey legs, buffalo wings, or a whole turkey (for Thanksgiving only). When it comes to barbecue, he sees himself as a culinary outlier.

    “The art of barbecue can kind of be gatekept by a lot of folks, which is ridiculous,” Grimes tells CultureMap. “I mean, it's three ingredients. It's a lot like punk rock: three chords and the truth, and you’re gonna get it right.

    On Saturday, May 24, Grimes will celebrate his 42nd birthday at Midtown bar Two Headed Dog, where he’ll be serving up more than just food. He’ll also debut Papercut, a zine filled with essays, remembrances and, yes, recipes. “A lot of it was taken from previous Instagram posts I had done that I expounded upon,” he says.

    With layout and artwork provided by bartender/artist Khrystah Luisa Gorham (who also designed Knives in Water’s logo and T-shirt merch), Grimes included many endearing entries to this brisk read. A 2015 post has him recalling the time he and his father went to the Million Man March when he was 12. A more recent piece has him cooking for his parents and maternal grandparents on Martin Luther King Day. He pays tribute to idol Anthony Bourdain (“I count him as a teacher of sorts, helping me find my own voice through food, culture and adventure.”) as well as an old friend whom he named a wing sauce after.

    The issue also runs down the various dishes Grimes tinkered with during the pandemic. “I took a look back at dishes that I had done in the past that I don't do anymore or, for one reason or another, I can't do,” he says. “Maybe they're too complicated or just wouldn't sell well at a dive bar, that kind of thing.”

    Papercut is basically a printed primer of the business Grimes has been operating since 2019. “Actually, [The Suffers frontwoman] Kam Franklin was the person that first put the idea in my head to do this, you know, professionally,” he remembers. “I did a dinner party for her. I mean, I can't remember what year it was — 2010, 2012, 2014… She was the first person to say, 'hey, you really got something here. You know, you're talented, your food's good. People seem to dig it.' So I guess you could kind of date it back to that.”

    Grimes got the idea for Papercut when he did a pop-up at last year’s Zine Fest Houston, held at the Orange Show. That’s where co-organizer Anastasia “Stacy” Kirages encouraged Grimes to put his thoughts and opinions down on paper. “It took her a while to convince me to do it,” he says. “Stacy's the most personable, likable person on the planet and I admire the hell out of her. So, it was kind of tough.”

    After he stopped procrastinating, Grimes found that creating a zine came quite easily to him. “Once I came up with the name, the silly name, it just kind of flew together in the space of maybe two months. I started writing it in February and I was holding a copy of it by late March, maybe early April. But yeah, it didn't take long at all.”

    Grimes has a limited number of copies, which he’ll be selling at his pop-ups. Copies will also be available at CLASS Bookstore and Gulf Coast Cosmos Comicbook Co. He isn’t ruling out dropping another volume if demand calls for it. If he does, Grimes assures readers that he’ll have fun with it and not become another culinary clout-chaser. “

    Yeah, it's really serious – the business of being a foodie, posting on Instagram and likes and all this stuff,” he says. “The competition is real and this is just a way to say it doesn't have to be that way. You know, you can do all of this yourselves. You and your friends can start a pop-up.

    “Starting a restaurant is something that will likely never happen for me,” he continues, “but that doesn't mean that I don't believe in my food and don't believe in my friends that do it as well. Umbrella Fellas, Annie’s Sammies, Tacos Bomberos. These are all pop-ups that are deserving of brick-and-mortar restaurants. They're deserving of all the accolades that we just don't get overshadowed because we're small-time, hanging out in dive bars, serving the people. But that's fine. No one I know is doing this for the laurels. It's just this punk rock DIY ethic that anyone can do this. Yeah, that's the beauty of it.”

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