NY Runway Report
Billy Reid's blanket coverage for the stylish man appeals to both sexes
NEW YORK — For a Southern boy, Billy Reid sure does like winter.
That's because Reid, who was raised in Louisiana and bases his business in Florence, Ala., with thriving stores in Houston, Dallas and Austin, gets a kick out of designing coats and other outerwear. "It's my favorite category to work on," he said backstage before his show at the cloister-like Highland Hotel.
His fall/winter collection has an abundance of terrific-looking coats in blanket-stripes, wallpaper jacquards, brushed plaids and houndstooth patterns. Reid even included some models with stadium blankets wrapped around their blanket-patterned coats. "It started as idea of developing blankets and that sort of led us to a whole new way of developing fabrications and textiles. That's what I love to do," he explained.
"Our female customers buy a lot of men's pieces. Our men's customers buy women's pieces. It's not anything intentional; it just sort of happens."
Just about every model who strolled the length of the hotel's Refectory, a Gothic hall that served as the dining space in an Episcopalian seminary and is one of the nicest settings I've seen in a decade of covering fashion week activities, was swathed in eye-catching outerwear. The varied looks include a mustard-colored cashmere duffle, fur-lined parkas, a leather peacoat and a furry rabbit vest over a fleece-lined hoodie.
Several overcoats in soft brushed fabric dip to calf level while a nubby alpaca shirt jacket is cut close to the body, along with trim cargo pants in dark blue or green. Shades of blue and indigo mix with toasty colors of gold and bordeaux (a pair of body-hugging velvet pants are in the warm red color).
"We always show a lot of tailored garments. That's a big part of our business," Reid said. "Customers have really been responding to uniqueness, whether it be shape or fabrication. Also we're getting really good response in our stores to luxury, whether it be cashmere or touches of fur."
Slacks are cut a little looser like track pants, whimsical dancing foxes dot some sweaters and shirts are oversized, because doesn't every men's wardrobe need at least one rumpled white shirt that hangs to mid-thigh? It's likely that women will cotton to the big boyfriend shirts as well.
While developing his collections for both sexes (although only menswear was shown at this show), Reid found that they started to influence each other.
"You put that soft blanket shape on a man and he can looked rugged but on a woman it can have a totally different feel. I love playing with that," Reid said. "Our female customers buy a lot of men's pieces. Our men's customers buy women's pieces. It's not anything intentional; it just sort of happens. It's kind of fun to balance that and see where it takes you."
Reid, who said he always gets nervous before a show, is considerably more relaxed when visiting his boutiques. He plans trips to his Texas stores soon for a little freshening up. "It's like a well visited house," he said. "Sometimes you have to turn the furniture, put on some new paint, change the racks. We're going to have some fun with it. It's almost like a reopening of the environment."