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    Food for Thought

    Chefs screaming, throwing knives and attacking food: How Houston's best stack up to TV stereotypes

    Marene Gustin
    Feb 9, 2013 | 4:41 pm

    Did you see the Cheezburger humor site post with a shot of a chef opening a walk-in cooler that reads “Walk-in Cooler: Scream therapy for chefs for over 60 years.”

    Now that’s funny.

    And apparently a lot of chefs thought so as well. There were plenty of commenters who admitted to using the walk-in to release a little kitchen frustration along with the occasional pot smoking and dead body storage. I’m pretty sure that last one was a joke.

    Anyway, running a commercial kitchen is not for the faint of heart. On your feet slaving over a hot line for 14-hour days, dealing with bitchy customers, short handed and exhausted, it can be a bit of a stressor.

    Instead of kicking the plants with his cowboy boots, he just wanders through the vegetable beds and herbs, enjoying the beauty of nature.

    Anyone who watches food reality TV or reads memoirs like The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness, and the Making of a Great Chef by original bad boy celebrity British chef Marco Pierre White, knows how some chefs handle the pressure. In his memoir, the enfant terrible of the kitchen recounts a scene where he threw an entire cheese plate, cheese by cheese onto the wall by the pass and left the cheeses there, stuck to the wall, because the waiter had not cut one of the pieces to his liking.

    Screaming, knife throwing, dumping food, it’s entertaining on TV, but in real life it’s not productive to running a kitchen. Not in Texas anyway.

    For the most part, Houston’s hot chefs are pretty mellow. Maybe it’s just the Texas way, but with the exception of one or two, most of our chefs just roll with the punches.

    How do they do it?

    For Ryan Hildebrand of Triniti and the soon-to-open Brand, it’s been all about the gym lately, and he finds that an afternoon weight session gets him out of the kitchen and de-stresses him.

    Exercise, in fact, seems to be a recurring theme to keep local chefs from throwing knives and pots at staff and customers.

    “I love to ride my bike,” says Hugo Ortega of Hugo’s and Backstreet Cafe. “And I go to spinning class in the mornings. I have learned to make time to do this because it keeps me centered and happy.”

    Ditto for a local corporate executive chef.

    “For me, the gym is the best,” says Dan Phalen of Luby’s/Fuddruckers. “But when I don’t have time for that, I love a good sitcom or a funny movie and have a good laugh. When the weather is nice, it's cigars and port out on the deck, and Friday night is always Margaritaville!”

    Now see, this is why I’m not running a commercial kitchen. I’d be in the margaritas way before Friday night.

    If you’ve ever eaten at Haven, it’s like dining in heaven. So you wouldn’t think chef Randy Evans would have a lot of stress.

    “Ha,” he scoffs. “I just walk away and walk through the restaurant’s garden.”

    Instead of kicking the plants with his cowboy boots, he just wanders through the vegetable beds and herbs, enjoying the beauty of nature.

    And the next set of answers takes Houston chefs even further from the chef enfant terrible stereotype.

    Soren Pedersen at Sorrel Urban Bistro says he handles stress by: “Meeting challenges with as much anticipation as possible and not overreacting to things that don’t matter.

    Screaming, knife throwing, dumping food, it’s entertaining on TV, but in real life it’s not productive to running a kitchen.

    “Also my philosophy is that if I need to yell or scream to get things done, I have not put the right team together," Pedersen says. "Otherwise a cold beer after the night’s craziness always brings things in perspective. Every day is a new day!”

    And from philosophy to prayer:

    “Before, I used to eat when I was stressed,” says Ooh La La pastry queen Vanessa O’Donnell. “But since October, I have been going to the gym to a spinning class. It works much better and is obviously better for me.

    "I also am a woman of faith and it gives me peace of mind knowing that God will never give me anything that I can’t handle and if He'll bring me to it, He’ll get me through it.”

    Over at the hot Hawthorn, chef Riccardo Palazzo-Giorgio agrees.

    “For me it’s prayer. Prayer focuses me on the One who keeps me in the palm of His hand. God is peace.”

    Apparently Houston chefs are in better physical shape and are more spiritual than others, which must be why Houston is such a hot restaurant scene.

    Oh, and they cook really well, too.

    If you’ve ever eaten at Haven, it’s like dining in heaven. So you wouldn’t think chef Randy Evans would have a lot of stress. “Ha,” he scoffs. “I just walk away and walk through the restaurant’s garden.”

    Haven Facebook
    If you’ve ever eaten at Haven, it’s like dining in heaven. So you wouldn’t think chef Randy Evans would have a lot of stress. “Ha,” he scoffs. “I just walk away and walk through the restaurant’s garden.”
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    meet the tastemakers

    These 10 restaurants and pop-ups serve Houston's best sandwiches

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 9, 2026 | 4:54 pm
    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

    Surely one of the most tired debates in Houston food is whether or not the city has good sandwiches. Usually, these complaints come from East Coast transplants who are disappointed by the lack of cold cut, Italian deli-style sandwiches.

    Allow us to illustrate the point with this year’s wildcard category in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, Best Sandwich.

    The nominees in this category demonstrate that Houston restaurants produce an endless array of banh mi, tortas, po’ boys, wraps, and, yes, one of the premier Jewish delis anywhere in the country. In addition to the old school favorites, a new crop of sandwich-obsessed pop-ups are raising the game.

    Who will win? Find out at our Tastemaker Awards ceremony April 16 at Silver Street Studios. Dine on bites from this year’s nominees, sip cocktails from our sponsors, and witness as we reveal the winners. Buy your tickets now. A limited number of Early Bird General Admission tickets remain. VIP tickets offer early entry, valet parking, and more perks. All tickets will sell out before the event, so don't wait.

    B'Tween Sandwich Co.
    After a lengthy stint as Greg Gatlin’s right hand at Gatlin’s BBQ and Gatlin’s Fins & Feathers, Wallace went out on her own with this sandwich pop-up. In addition to her familiar biscuit sandwiches, Wallace has been collaborating with other restaurants, creating a Cajun fish sandwich at fellow nominee Stuffed Belly and a butter chicken sandwich at Tastemaker Awards winner Burger Bodega. Discover Wallace’s latest creations every first and third Sunday of the month at the Rice Village farmers market.

    Bayou Butchers
    At this pop-up, chef Garrett Rice showcases his knowledge of meat. He dry ages ribeyes for Bayou Butchers’ signature Philly cheesesteak and makes his own pistachio-studden mortadella. Recently, he collaborated with chef Gabe Medina on a Spam sandwich that sold out quickly.

    Cali Sandwich & Pho
    For more than 30 years, this Midtown restaurant has been serving classic Vietnamese fare to Houstonians who appreciate a good deal on a tasty meal. The signature barbecue pork banh mi is always popular, as are the shredded chicken and steamed BBQ pork. While the days of $2 sandwiches may be over, Cali still offers a very satisfying lunch that only costs about $5.

    Craft Pita
    Diners may think of this Lebanese restaurant as primarily a bowl concept, but chef-owner Raffi Nasr knows a thing or two about sandwiches. Last year, he jumped on the viral chicken Caesar wrap with his own spin that used Craft Pita’s rotisserie chicken and its garlicky toum. More recently, he s introduced a crispy shawarma with a griddled pita and chicken skin for extra crunch.

    Kenny & Ziggy's
    Houstonians of all creeds flock to this Jewish deli for sandwiches that range from classics — such as corned beef and pastrami that are cured and smoked in-house — to more over-the-top creations like the Luck Be a Latke (brisket served between two potato pancakes) and the mammoth Zellagabetsky, an eight-layer, $116 sandwich that will best even the heartiest appetites. K&Z’s hot sandwiches, including an open-faced turkey with gravy, a Philly cheesesteak, and a classic French dip, are similarly can’t-miss.

    Local Foods
    With five Houston-area locations and two Austin outposts, this restaurant is among Houston’s most successful sandwich purveyors. Standouts include the “Crunchy” Chicken with its nut crumble and buttermilk ranch; the Gulf Seafood with its mixture of shrimp and crab that’s kicked up with green goddess dressing; and the Truffled Egg on a chewy pretzel bun. Vegetable sides sourced from area farms ensure the restaurant lives up to its name.

    Stuffed Belly
    Masterchef winner and James Beard Award finalist Christine Ha shares her love of sandwiches at this fast casual spot in Spring Branch. While Ha has built her reputation by making Vietnamese dishes, Stuffed Belly leans more traditionally American with options such as a patty melt, tuna salad, egg salad, and a grilled cheese. Specials, like this month’s Fish N Chips that gets added crunch from crushed kettle chips, ensure regulars always have something new to try.

    Thien An Sandwiches
    Like Cali Sandwich, this restaurant has built a devoted following for its affordable banh mi. The restaurant serves all the usual fillings, with the dac biet combo with pate among the standouts. Save room for the signature banh xeo, a crispy rice crepe stuffed with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts.

    Winnie's
    This Midtown bar and restaurant would have earned a nomination solely for its definitive shrimp po’ boy, an overstuffed sandwich on bread from New Orleans’ iconic Leidenheimer Baking Company. Of course, the restaurant goes far beyond that with essentials like the Fried Chicken Crunch Wrap Supreme (made with Cool Ranch Doritos, of course) and weekly specials from the ever-restless mind of co-owner Graham Laborde. Top tier cocktails and some of Houston’s best wings only enhance Winnie’s appeal.

    Yuma
    This pop-up, which will soon open its first brick-and-mortar location on Washington Avenue, has built its reputation by blending Cuban and Brazilian flavors. Its menu includes a classic Cuban sandwich, the Sampa Gallo chicken sandwich, and the A Caipira, a Brazilian take on a cheesesteak. Yuma also creates sandwiches inspired by other cultures, such as the Vietnamese-style El Penny Cubano Banh Mi — made with mojo pork and ham that’s topped with Gruyere, garlic aioli, pate, pickled carrots, daikon, cilantro, and jalapeno.

    ----

    The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is sponsored in Houston by Maker's Mark, Culinary Khancepts, NTX LVL Event, Shutto and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke

    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

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