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    Chefs on the Move

    Ninfa's taps acclaimed Houston chef for new Galleria-area restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 16, 2019 | 2:56 pm

    The Original Ninfa’s on Navigation has recruited Jason Gould to serve as the executive for its eagerly anticipated Galleria-area location.

    Gould brings over 25 years in the restaurant industry to his role. Houstonians may recognize his name as the executive chef of acclaimed Montrose restaurant Gravitas. More recently, he spent seven years as the corporate executive chef for Cyclone Anaya’s Mexican Kitchen.

    Gould tells CultureMap that the sale of Cyclone Anaya’s to the Heritage Restaurant Group prompted him to look for a new opportunity. He contacted Legacy Restaurants president Jonathan Horowitz, knowing the former head of the Houston Restaurant Association might have some advice. To his surprise, he discovered Horowitz had a more immediate need — someone who could help lead the expansion of one of the city’s most iconic restaurant brands.

    Currently on track for a May opening, The Original Ninfa’s Uptown Houston will be the first Ninfa’s expansion for owner Legacy Restaurants (other Ninfa’s locations are franchised). Diners will have high expectations, and it’s up to Gould and his team to maintain the standards set by the original location and chef Alex Padilla.

    “It is a big challenge,” Gould. “It’s something we’ve been discussing quite regularly. Not only does Ninfa’s have a history, everyone has memories. Trying to recreate that will be a challenge in itself.

    “If you have a meal at Navigation, you need to have the same meal at BLVD Place.”

    With permits in hand, construction has begun to transform the former Peska Seafood into the new Ninfa’s. As the renderings above illustrate, changes to the dining room will be extensive. They’ll be less so in the kitchen, Gould says, but he’s focusing on configuring a flow to ensure that every plate arrives at its intended destination promptly.

    For now, he’s working with Padilla to practice recipes and develop the training materials that will ensure a smooth opening.

    “He’s great. It’s funny because Alex has similar experience to me,” Gould says. “We both come from fine dining backgrounds. We both enjoy cooking a variety of cuisines. It’s good to work with him and see what’s doing with the menu.”

    A rendering of the interior at The Original Ninfa's Uptown.

    Original Ninfa's Uptown interior rendering
      
    Courtesy image
    A rendering of the interior at The Original Ninfa's Uptown.
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    That's Amore!

    Pioneering Mexican chef and chic speakeasy popping up at Houston hotel

    Brianna Griff
    May 23, 2025 | 10:00 am
    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston
    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

    Houston diners won’t need a passport to explore Mexico’s culinary capital next month. On June 16 and 17, Four Seasons Hotel Houston will host From Oaxaca, With Love, a five-course experience that teams celebrated chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca with Oaxaca City cocktail bar Sabina Sabe and agave-spirits producer The Lost Explorer.

    The evening begins with Sabina Sabe bartender Mike Prado greeting diners with a cocktail in Bandista, the hotel’s speakeasy bar and lounge. The libations promise to be divine, with Sabine Sabe currently ranked No. 54 Best Bar in North America, and Bandista sitting at No. 59.

    From there, the party moves into a dining room filled with contemporary works supplied by Oaxaca Serrano Contemporary Art Gallery and underscored by live music.

    Ruiz, whose flagship Casa Oaxaca earned a spot in Mexico’s inaugural Michelin Guide, built his reputation by elevating the dishes he learned as a child cooking alongside his mother on the family farm.

    The chef stays close to his roots with recipes crafted using native ingredients such as chiles, corn, insects, and seeds purchased directly from local producers. Ruiz has long been considered an ambassador of the southern Mexican state — his enfrijoladas caused Noma’s famed Chef Rene Redzepi a moment of rapture.

    For his Houston appearance, diners can expect a true taste of Oaxaca: think a mini tostada topped with heirloom chapulines, chicatanas, and gusanos de maguey (grasshoppers, flying ants, and agave worms); red snapper cured in a bright tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth; and a slow-braised short rib finished in a fruit-laced mole.

    Prado will pair each course with cocktails such as the Pimiento Margarita, combining The Lost Explorer Tobalá mezcal with vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, and lime.

    “It is our great pleasure to welcome chef Alejandro Ruiz and Sabina Sabe to Houston, Texas,” Tom Segesta, Four Seasons Hotel Houston’s general manager, said in a statement. "These dinners, featuring these awarded ambassadors of Oaxacan food and drink, are sure to be enjoyed by our local community and guests from around the world.”

    The pop-up continues the hotel’s ongoing dinner-series format, which has previously spotlighted restaurants ranging from Emeril’s in New Orleans to Employees Only in New York and an Italian-American steakhouse from James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd.

    From Oaxaca, With Love begins at 7 pm on Monday, June 16, and Tuesday, June 17. Seating is limited, with tickets priced at $250 per person plus tax and gratuity. Each reservation will receive a signed English-language copy of Ruiz’s cookbook The Food of Oaxaca: Recipes and Stories from Mexico's Culinary Capital. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Those who wish to linger can book the hotel’s Advance Purchase offer, which discounts room rates by up to 25 percent when reserved three or more days ahead.

    The menu features:

    Starter Trio

    • Mini tostada with heirloom insects
    • Zucchini blossom stuffed with ricotta and roasted banana purée
    • Hoja santa “taco” with quesillo, beans, and wild mushrooms

    Green Aguachile

    • Red snapper cured in tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth, Persian cucumber, red onion, cilantro, ginger-toasted peanuts
    • Cocktail: Pequeño Gigante – Madre Cuishe mezcal, hoja santa, ginger, lime, Oaxacan spices

    Tortilla Soup

    • Tomato-pasilla mixe broth, crispy tortillas, fresh cheese, cream, pork cracklings, mint-celery garnish
    • Cocktail: Pimiento Margarita – Tobalá mezcal, Mistela vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, lime

    Braised Short Rib

    • Anchamanteles mole, seasonal fruit relish, banana purée, crispy plantain
    • Cocktail: Agave Xerez – The Lost Explorer tequila, Palomino sherry, green apple, pear

    Textures of Oaxacan

    • Chocolate Mousse, sponge cake, ice cream, tuile, passion-fruit jelly, cacao nibs
    • Neat pour of Tobalá mezcal
    • Traditional water-based hot chocolate infused with cacao flower

    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
      

    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston

    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

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