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    Big Bar Opening

    Bar buzz: Downtown's new craft beer haven looks good, but it has plenty of work to do

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 10, 2015 | 11:41 am

    One thing that's characterized the wave of bars and restaurants that have opened in downtown since the end of 2012 is that each has brought something that sets it apart from what else has opened around it. From OKRA (donates its profits to charity) to Bad News Bar (beautiful space, killer cocktails) to newcomers like Public Services (full service, bar snacks by Oxheart) to Henke & Pillot (very shiny), each establishment has something about it that makes it an appealing destination depending on one's mood.

    Similarly, the two places that have already closed, Goro & Gun and Clutch City Squire, lacked the sort of focused perspective that gives people a reason to keep coming back. If Goro had delivered on its promise to serve great ramen it might still be around, but I digress. The point is that each establishment's independent identity is what at least some people (i.e., me) find appealing about downtown when compared to the clubs that are popular in Midtown.

    Which brings me to downtown's newest establishment, Bovine & Barley. What is it? How does that fit into downtown? Is it likely to last?

    Outside of The Flying Saucer, none of the other bars in downtown can touch Bovine & Barley's beer selection.

    As its name implies, Bovine & Barley features beef in various forms and barley in the form of 42 craft beer taps that mix the usual local favorites like Karbach, Saint Arnold and Buffalo Bayou with favorites from abroad like Goose Island.

    It fits into the historic district well, too, with an industrial look complemented by wooden accents, a ceiling covered in coffee bags and a signature lighting fixture that reads HTX. The U-shaped bar dominates the center of the space, while booths and high-top tables line either wall. A second-story private dining room already had an after-work event on Thursday night even though the bar is still in its soft-opening phase.

    Having established what it is, how does that fit into downtown?

    Most importantly, outside of The Flying Saucer, none of the other bars in downtown can touch Bovine & Barley's beer selection. Serving craft beer has proven profitable for many establishments — and that seems likely to draw people in. If the prices are a little high — $8 each for a Lone Pint Yellow Rose and a Saint Arnold Icon Blue — that probably won't stop people from ordering a brew or two.

    Unfortunately, the rest of Bovine & Barley feels very much like a work in progress. Service was friendly but didn't seem very knowledgeable about the food or beer selection. Currently, the only way to know what's on tap is to read the handles, which can be inconvenient the farther away one is from the wall. That also led to a couple of customers asking for beers that aren't available. Hopefully, a printed menu is on the way.

    Similarly, of the four bar snacks on the soft-opening menu, the one that stood out the most was the jalapeno bacon bites — jalapeno bacon wrapped around pineapple and cream cheese and then baked. After all, sweet and smoky with a little spice is usually a winning combination. On the other hand, "steak on a stick" — kebabs with grilled peppers — were mushy and flavorless. Meatloaf muffins, really just meatballs with a little tomato sauce, had the familiar flavors of the comfort classic, but I couldn't detect any of the advertised jalapeno in the mashed potatoes.

    Of course, it's too soon to write off Bovine & Barley. After all, the soft-opening has only been going on for a few days, and the owners' pedigrees offer reasons for optimism.

    Co-owner Michael Collins has a hit with Midtown's The Refinery and brings his experiences as co-owner of Midtown sushi restaurant The Fish; he also brings Fish chef Harold Wong, who present Thursday night helping to tweak the menu. Co-owner Jason Lowery previously owned Proof Rooftop Lounge, prior to selling it last year. If nothing else, Collins' success at The Refinery bodes well for the burgers that Bovine & Barley will introduce next week.

    I'll go back after a couple of weeks to evaluate it for the May edition of Where to Eat Right Now. That prime rib sandwich certainly sounds good.

    The light-up HTX sign is Bovine & Barley's most distinctive feature.

    Bovine and Barley HTX sign
    Bovine & Barley Facebook
    The light-up HTX sign is Bovine & Barley's most distinctive feature.
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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Sneak peek at members-only wine club and restaurant opening soon in Upper Kirby

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 2, 2026 | 10:22 am
    55 Seventy Houston rendering
    Courtesy of 55 Seventy
    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    A wine-driven, members-only club is currently under construction next to Upper Kirby’s Levy Park. Called 55 Seventy, the game-changing facility is on track to open at the end of November.

    Prior to opening 55 Seventy’s original Dallas location in 2022, founder Tommy Shuey worked in finance. During the Covid-19 pandemic, he started looking around for new business ventures and quickly discovered that Dallas’ private wine storage facilities were completely sold out, despite, in his assessment, being relatively out of the way compared to where its clients live and not very nice inside.

    “The thought was, why don't I just make this nicer and charge more and put it in their backyard and really offer that quality and convenience that I feel like a wine collector would appreciate on storing wine,” Shuey tells CultureMap.

    He also envisioned a club component that would offer more than just a place for collectors to drink. It would provide a full service restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, along with the ability to host private events with custom menus. Dallasite embraced the concept, selling out memberships and prompting Shuey and his partner, sommelier Jeff Gregory, to search for a second location. They quickly identified Houston as the right place to expand.

    Bigger and better

    “Our winery partners, when they come for a tasting, they always go to Houston first or second,” Shuey says. Later, he adds, “The more I started digging into this Houston market, the more this is not going to be news to you, but you start unraveling this underbelly of wine in Houston. I'm convinced that Houston is the largest wine city in the country. It is unbelievable.”

    With lessons learned from the Dallas location, Houston’s 55 Seventy will be even more grand — a 30,000-square-foot, newly constructed building that will be able to hold as many as 150,000 bottles of wine while offering its members two restaurants, a demonstration kitchen, lounge areas, private dining and meeting spaces, and an art gallery. Houston's Gin Design Group is handling the interiors; as illustrated above, the club will have an Art Deco-inspired design.

    55 Seventy Houston rendering

    Courtesy of 55 Seventy

    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    “We've learned so much. A lot of it is learning, hey, we have to do this differently or we want to do it this way,” Shuey says. “And some of it's a guess. I think people are going to use the club differently from Dallas. I think Houston is a later city, and I think that they come in bigger groups more frequently than Dallas.

    “The one thing we know for sure is that Houston is a more adventurous food city. And it's a higher bar than Dallas. And so we hired two chefs, both of Michelin experience, to elevate the program.”

    While the food program will follow the template created in Dallas by executive chef and partner Josh Sutcliff, a veteran of Dallas’ acclaimed FT33 who’s committed to local sourcing and scratch cooking, day-to-day operations will be overseen by executive chef Diego Fernandez, who brings experience from Michelin-starred restaurants Alinea (Chicago), Quince (San Francisco), and time with research and development team at Pappas Restaurants. Executive banquet chef Jacob Solomon brings experience from the Michael Mina group to all of 55 Seventy’s private dining and events.

    55 Seventy’s main restaurant is located on its first floor. It will feature a wide-ranging menu centered around steak and seafood, along with sushi and vegetarian items. Shuey notes that many items will be able to be modified to accommodate gluten-free and other food allergies. Whereas the Dallas location opened with a 220-square-foot kitchen, later expanded to 660, the Houston club will have almost 2,000 square feet of kitchen space, giving both chefs plenty of room to cook.

    The second restaurant is called Canopy Bar. Located on the roof, it will serve pizzas and other Mediterranean-style fare. A nano wall will protect diners from the elements.

    “The goal is to have something a little more casual and approachable,” Shuey says. “I think what we're most excited about is to have those two very different restaurant options for our members versus in Dallas.”

    Shuey has made a similar commitment to the wine side of 55 Seventy by recruiting master sommelier Justin Moore to serve as executive director of wine. Most recently with Washington, D.C.’s Rose’s Restaurant Group that operates three, one-star Michelin restaurants — Pineapple and Pearls, Rose’s Luxury, and Little Pearl — Moore will oversee the club’s wine list as well as a wine brokerage service that will help members grow their collections.

    “I have deep respect for the classic benchmark producers, and I love finding the bottle nobody has heard of yet,” Moore said in a statement. “Houston appreciates both, and our list will reflect that.”

    Who the members are

    Two months before opening, 55 Seventy has already sold about 1,000 memberships. Ultimately, the club could offer as many as 3,000, but Shuey wants to build that slow. For now, the aim is to have enough people that both restaurants feel lively and that members are able to make connections with each other over great bottles.

    Beyond being able to pay the various fees — an initial payment of $6,000 for an individual, $7,500 for a couple, or $20,000 for a company, plus about $500 per month — Shuey says members typical have a certain perspective in common.

    “It's somebody who is at the stage of their life where they appreciate the finer things, food, wine, cocktails, and hospitality. If they're willing to appreciate the fact that we are sourcing our beef from a local producer, and they'll pay a little bit more for that because it's quality. It's somebody who wants their wine made by hand by a winemaker who's reputable and not by a machine and a factory somewhere. It's really somebody that wants our staff to know their name when they walk in and feel appreciated.

    “You're talking about partners at law firms, business owners, wealth management, firm partners, you're talking about people that live in the area and just love food and wine. People that work in the industry that have that like real appreciation for what we're building. And we don't want it to be stuffy. We want it to be approachable.”

    As he notes, service is a big part of 55 Seventy’s appeal. Since it isn’t operating with the same financial considerations as a stand-alone restaurant, the club doesn’t need to turn tables. A member can claim a spot all night, drink a bottle from their cellar, and eat as much or as little as they want to.

    55 Seventy is expected to open on Friday, November 27. It will be located at 3015 Richmond Ave. Membership inquiries may be directed to membership.houston@55seventy.com.

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