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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 360 and 361

    Meet the live fire-loving chefs behind the hottest new restaurant in the Heights

    CultureMap Staff
    Mar 21, 2024 | 7:00 pm
    Baso restaurant chefs Max Lappe and Jacques Varon

    Chefs Max Lappe and Jacques Varon are this week's guests.

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chefs Jacques Varon and Max Lappe join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Baso. Located in the Heights, Baso is a Basque-inspired restaurant that prepares many of its dishes using a wood-fired hearth.



    The conversation begins with both chefs explaining their paths to professional cooking. Eventually, they worked together at Angler, a seafood restaurant in Los Angeles. When Varon decided to return to his hometown of Houston to open Baso, he recruited Lappe to join him.

    Baso has been building a following for the duo’s flavorful interpretation of Basque cuisine, including earning two CultureMap Tastemaker Award nominations for Best New Restaurant and Rising Star Chef of the Year. They discuss some of their popular dishes with Sandler, including their innovative caviar service, signature grilled pork chop, and roasted cabbage with lamb bacon. Sandler asks how they stay motivated when they've received so much attention so quickly.

    “I get a lot of motivation from my friends at these Nordic restaurants or Japanese restaurants I’ve worked in. They say, you have to keep pushing the boundaries. If you don’t, people get bored, and you become another Chili’s. Keeping people on their toes makes me happy,” Varon says.

    “Like Jacques was saying, I never trust when anyone says anything is good. It kind of freaks me out. I think, why is everyone lying to me? Why is everyone nodding their heads? I don’t believe it,” Lappe adds. “I don’t see us stopping pushing any time. I know we have a really long way to go. I think we’re alright for being new, but I won’t be okay with where we’re at a month down the line.”

    On this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Monica Danna discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: chef Alex Padilla announcing his departure from The Original Ninfa’s; Chicago restaurant Portillo’s plans to open two Houston-area locations; and the opening of High Five Mini Bar at the Stomping Grounds in Garden Oaks.



    In the restaurants of the week segment, Danna and Sandler discuss their recent meal at PostScript, the female-focused Upper Kirby restaurant that features a menu created by Houston chef Bryan Caswell. They share thoughts on its very pink interior as well as some of their favorite dishes. From there, they turn to a recent meal at Le Jardinier, the New York-based French fine dining restaurant at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    where's eric eating

    CultureMap editor's 10 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in November

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 2, 2025 | 5:13 pm
    Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

    November’s dining adventures across Houston consisted of only a couple of new restaurants, an upscale, contemporary Chinese restaurant in River Oaks; an ambitious neighborhood eatery in Garden Oaks; and a buzzy barbecue spot on the border of Conroe and The Woodlands.

    The month also provided me with an opportunity to visit a veteran chef in his new home, catch up one of the city’s new additions to the Michelin Guide, and sample a po’ boy from the rising star chef behind Houston’s hottest new burger joint.

    As a reminder, this list isn’t ranked. I liked all of these dishes for different reasons.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in November.

    Lobster Fettuccine at State of Grace
    Chef Ryan Lachaine is off to a strong start as the executive chef of the River Oaks restaurant. The lobster fettuccine — pasta made in-house, of course — features a generous portion of seafood along with a lobster-infused sauce americane. In addition to a couple of Riel favorites, the caviar tots and the butter burgers, he’s also introduced a cheese fondue that matches the menu’s Continental-influenced, retro vibe.

    Birria Beef Pacchei at Lazy Lane
    The newly opened Garden Oaks restaurant is putting a Houston spin on classic Mediterranean dishes. In this entree, house made pasta is paired with braised beef cheek, radishes, salsa verde, and herbs, turning the building blocks of barbacoa tacos into a form that fits the ambitious neighborhood restaurant. Other highlights from the meal included Spanish meatballs and crispy skin ocean trout over beet risotto.

    Deviled Crab at Credence
    One of the 14 Houston restaurants added to the Michelin Guide for 2025, the live fire restaurant near Memorial City Mall serves this dish instead of a crab cake. Blue crab meat gets sauteed in smoky tomato butter for a bite that’s sweet, smoky, and satisfying. Pair it with the grilled snapper for the full Gulf Coast seafood experience.

    Peking Duck at Maison Chinoise
    This contemporary Chinese restaurant from the company behind Toulouse and Lombardi Cucina Italiana is already winning fans in River Oaks. The Peking duck, a speciality of chef Jordan He, delivers tender meat, crispy skin, and paper-thin crepes that are worthy of any version served around town. Pair it with some of the restaurant’s extensive dumpling selection for the full experience.

    Branzino at Okto
    Chef Yotam Dolev recently updated the menu at this Mediterranean-influenced Montrose restaurant. Seared to achieve a crispy skin, the flakey white fish sits in a tomato-gazpacho broth with fennel and olives. Don’t miss the signature frena bread and Greek salad.

    Shrimp Po’ Boy at Boo’s Burgers
    One perk of moving from pop-up to brick-and-mortar is that it allows Boo’s Burgers chef-owner Joseph Boudreaux to indulge creative impulses such as a rotating Friday fish special that’s currently this sandwich. Loaded with a generous serving of crispy, well-fried shrimp, the sandwich is simply dressed shredded lettuce, tomato, and the chef’s smoky burger sauce. Get it before Boudreaux moves on to another special.

    Veal Piccata at Fielding’s River Oaks
    The River Oaks restaurants is fond of fusion flavors, and its take on veal piccata is no exception. Instead of the usual lemon-caper sauce, Fielding’s serves its veal in a richer mushroom cream sauce with fall-friendly caramelized apples and creamed spinach. It’s a heartier take on the classic that’s well-suited to winter’s recent arrival.

    Barbecue at Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Thai fare meets Texas at this restaurant on the border of The Woodlands and Tomball. The house made sausages are a standout, particularly the beef-and-basil and German hotlink, particularly when dipped in the restaurant’s tangy nam jim jaew. While the brisket and ribs could’ve used a little longer in the smoking, a weekend prime rib special with a crispy crust and well-rendered fat already has me contemplating a return visit.

    Shrimp Tacos at Cochinita & Co.
    At this restaurant in the East End, plump shrimp are paired with a sweet and spicy pineapple pico and a morita aioli, then wrapped in house made corn tortillas. Good ingredients and precise execution — the shrimp are cooked gently enough to retain a springy texture and mild sweetness — make them some of my favorite tacos in Houston. A side of the vegetarian black beans make for a tasty companion.

    Tonkotsu Gachi at Japanese Ramen Gachi
    Influenced by Shawn the Food Sheep, I visited the two-year-old Med Center-area restaurant for dinner. The signature tonkotsu features a well-seasoned, milk-colored broth with deep pork flavor and major umami punch. Paired with some karaage it made for a very satisfying dinner — just be aware that the Food Sheep’s flock may overwhelm the restaurant’s ability to serve diners quickly.



    Charm Taphouse & BBQ

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

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