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    Firmly rooted

    Innovative new wine bar with rising star chef sprouting up in Houston's East End

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 24, 2020 | 10:35 am

    A new establishment coming to the East End wants to change the way Houstonians experience wine bars. Meet Roots, a new business that aims to combine a polished culinary program with an innovative service model. Currently under construction, Roots is slated to open this summer at 3107 Leeland St.

    Co-owner Lori Hernandez tells CultureMap that her inspiration for opening Roots stems from the time she spent living in Germany. Traveling around Europe taught her to appreciate the many varieties of wine, a passion she shared with her long time friend, local real estate investor Paul Siwek. Together, they saw an opportunity to bring a different kind of wine bar to the neighborhood Hernandez grew up — literally taking her back to her roots.

    While places like Better Luck Tomorrow and The Toasted Coconut have blurred the line between bars and restaurants by combining sophisticated cocktail programs with destination-worthy dishes, that trend hasn’t really made its way to wine bars. For the most part, their food offerings are limited to typical items like panini, flatbreads, meat and cheese boards, etc.

    Roots will not be that kind of wine bar. “It’s really bridging that factor between just a wine bar or separate as a restaurant,” Hernandez says. “While we’re definitely not a restaurant, we have more offerings from a food aspect [than a typical wine bar]. It makes the most sense with the team we’ve developed overall, and the options we have to bring our vision to fruition here.”

    Leading that team will be executive chef and general manager JD Fouché, whose resume includes extensive experience in New Orleans where he worked for chefs like Susan Spicer and Bob Iacovone. Locally, he quietly worked as “the guy behind the guy” at both Reef and Riel.

    True to those experiences, Fouché says he’s planning to create a menu that’s grounded in Gulf Coast cuisine and made with locally-grown, seasonally available products. Since he’s also the general manager, the bar and kitchen will have an interactive relationship. If a vendor provides a great ingredient for a new dish, Roots can bring in a wine to match it; conversely, if the bar gets a few bottles of a sought after wine, Fouché can create a dish that pairs with it.

    “The menu will be very diverse: 10 -12 items that should change at least quarterly or even every few weeks,” the chef says. “The way we’re trying to approach it is a seasonal, rotating menu that is diverse enough to work with the selections of wine that we have at any given time.”

    Those selections will be extensive. Roots will be among the first establishments in Houston to embrace the self serve concept. Customers will have access to a wall that contains 50 bottles connected to a machine that can dispense 1, 3, and 5-ounce pours. Bottles will also be available, but the partners expect the self-serve options to be Roots’ focus.

    “We’re able to offer by-the-glass options that aren’t available elsewhere, because the preservation system allows for more longevity with each bottle of wine,” Hernandez says. “You also get that direct interaction with the wine itself.”

    Staff members and written tasting notes will be available to offer suggestions, but the system makes it possible to choose whichever wine strikes a person’s fancy. Having the ability to taste a 1-ounce pour allows people to try something new at a reasonable cost. “You can walk up and try whatever strikes your fancy that day, [even] because it’s a pretty bottle,” Hernandez says.

    Just as much thought has gone into what the space will look like. Hernandez and Siwek are working with designer William Shoemaker and his team at Native Citizen to source contemporary furniture that’s as sophisticated as the wine and food.

    Formerly a 2,800-square-foot warehouse, Roots will feature a private room for tasting and events, a spacious patio, and a lounge for drinking and dining. Noting that wine bars tend to be date night destinations, Hernandez promises Roots will have “quiet spaces” for making out conversation.

    Taken together, it doesn’t take much imagination to see how Roots could fit in with its neighborhood. If everything comes together as intended, it should slot in as more casual than a wine-forward restaurant like Nancy’s Hustle and more food-forward than a traditional wine bar like How to Survive on Land and Sea.

    Intrigued? The concept is already selling gift cards and will donate 10-percent of the purchase price to Houston Shift Meal, an organization that's providing free meals to unemployed hospitality workers. Hernandez and Siwek will match those donations.

    A sample dish from chef J.D. Fouche's menu.

    Steak dish Roots
    Courtesy of Roots
    A sample dish from chef J.D. Fouche's menu.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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